Alaska State Library - Historical Collections, PO Box 110571, Juneau AK 99811-0571

ASL-MS0107-Diary02-1901

James Wickersham diary, Jan. 1st to Sept 29th, 1901.

[Printed on cover:]

Memo ^m

1901.

Jany 1st to Sept. 29th.

[page break]

[Inside front cover:]

Nome. Thomas F. Bayard.

/ Frank McKay, Capt.

/ John Larson (Ballard, Wash

{ Frank White.

\ Wm. Fitley.

/ Schuldt.

\ John Brannon {June 25.

These men saw two men on Unimak

Island – where Sullivan Bros & Rooney

were killed.

[page break]

[January 1901]

1901.

January 1st 1901. Eagle City, Alaska.

We attended the ball last night at the

Drill Hall at Ft. Egbert, and enjoyed it

very much. Present: Captain and Mrs.

C. T. Farnsworth, Lts. Tillman & Cragie

Judge & Mrs. W_, Heilig and wife, Crook

and wife: Mrs and Mrs. U. G. Myers,

Mr & Mrs Heath, Mr & Mrs Myers,

Mr & Mrs Adams, & others. I am now

taking long walks daily and preparing to

go to Seventy Mile River – on 3rd with

Jessen & Ed & Fred. Crouch. Am going

to look at Coal mine on Washington Creek

& bar diggings on upper Seventy Mile.

January 2nd Chopping wood, repairing

leggings and getting supplies, ammunition

&c. ready to go hunting with the boys.

Jany 3rd We are waiting for Ben Downing

[wi]th the mail – Jessen wants to see him [and?]

[page break]

get a dog before we go to 70 mile river.

He will not get in from Dawson (so we hear

by telegraph today) until tomorrow night.

Have had two Indians writing vocabulary

- they write their own words in English

letters. They also gamble – play the

“bone gamble” like the Puyallups,

and other games.

Jany 4th 1901. The new post

physician and his wife reached

Eagle today by dog team. They

are young, and were just married

the day before they started on this trip.

Mail in from Dawson. Orr

and McGowan sent me a fine roll

of papers. Signed an order calling

for bids for erecting new Courthouse

and jail. Claypools report for

quarter ending Sept. 30. received

examined, and approved. Go on

hunt to 70 Mile Riv. in the morning.

[page break]

Jan 5th Left Eagle at 6 oclock a.m.

with two sleds and six dogs. Went up

Mission Creek – Killed 8 ptarmigan just

at day break. Reached the mouth of

Excelsior at noon and ate lunch at

Allen Stewarts cabin. Crossed the

divide from Excelsior to Rock Creek

& down to Seventy Mile. Reached

cabin near Fox Creek – Fred and

I one hour ahead of dogteam -

Found one big cabin full of miners

but a small one was placed at our

disposal. Borrowed a stove and

set it up, and had a big fire when

the sled came in. Fred cooked us

a good supper and we made our

bed on the ground and slept well -

Jany 6th Left Fox Creek with the temperature

below 30° and reached a cabin just below

the Falls on 70 Mile – near Washington Creek

[page break]

soon after noon. We remained here

for we go up Washington Creek about

five miles to visit a coal vein. One

feature of Seventy Mile River strikes me

as peculiar: - the valley bed rock is

everywhere higher than the river – every

bar can be worked by the hydraulic

method – water plenty, and the entire

valley is said to have fine gold in the

earth.

Jany 7th The days work consisted

in 10 miles of snow-shoeing. We went

over the ridge, through the brush, up and

down hills, - up Washington Creek – but

did not find the coal mine. I wore

moccasins today, also, for the first time.

I had no trouble with snow shoes, and

kept up – but my two second toes are

blistered and sore. We found a great

moose horn at a cabin five miles up and

carried them in to camp.

[page break]

Jan 8th Left Camp at Falls of the

Forty {Seventy} Mile at 8 oclock, and reached

(70 Mile)

the Barney creek Cabin at noon: heavy

snow storm prevailing. Robertson

and Carr reached Barney camp

and put up with us: cabin 12 X 16.

inhabitants 6 men & 5 dogs inside

- 10 dogs outside. Wrote a note

home.

Jany 9th We left Barney Creek Cabin

at 7:30 am. The moon shone brightly, the sky

was cloudless and a faint tinge of dawn

just appeared in the east. Within half a

mile – at Placer Creek, we struck water

- or “glacier” as it is called by the old “mushers”

The river freezes to the bottom, yet the springs

continue to send out fresh supplies of water

which failing to find a channel under the ice

break through and spread over the surface,

where it continues to freeze and build up the

ice until it assumes the appearance of a

[page break]

glacier. Sometimes a heavy fall of snow

covers the ice and protects the water from freezing

When the thermometer gets down 50° or 60°

degrees below zero, and you suddenly break

through the snow or ice and into water it

becomes dangerous. We struck several

such places, but had provided against just

such accidents by pulling flour sacks of

heavy drilling on our feet, and tying them

around the foot and below the knee. Our

dogs were not so well booted and old Dick

and one other dog reached the end of the days

trip with frozen feet. “Glaciers” and deep

snow retarded us very much – it was bout 25°

below zero when we started and 43° below

when we reached Robertsons cabin at night.

We had two sleds and 6 dogs – the load weighed

600 to 800 lbs. and we often found it necessary

to assist in pulling the load. About 11 oclock

the sunlight first lit up the mountains to the

[n]orth of the river. At noon we reached the

[page break]

Granite Fork, coming into the river from the

south, and just above the junction stopped

at the cabin of Messrs Laughlin, from Bloom

ington Illinois, and Wheeler from California. They

represent a Peoria, Ill. Co. in mining work at

Dewey Bar, across the river. We took lunch

with them in their warm cabin on the banks of

the 70 mile. Seventy Mile is a peculiar

mining region. Generally the bed rock lies

from 2 to 16 feet above the bed of the river, and

is covered with gravel from 6 to 10 feet thick

in which is said to be found paying quantities

of placer gold. If so it affords an ideal

hydraulic mining region. We stopped

during the afternoon at the mouth of Nugget

creek, where I saw Yost and told him I

could not go to Sheep Creek with him, and also

invited Sorinson, a guide Hunter to go with

us up the river, which he agreed to do tomorrow.

With a bad trail and colder weather we reached

{43° below zero.}

Robertsons cabin at Flume Creek at dark.

[page break]

Jan 10th. Jessen and Ed Crouch left

Robertsons cabin this morning, and took

one sled to camp ten miles up the river

so that when we move the load will be lighter

Thermometer 52° below zero all day &

we will not go on from this place until

it gets warmer. Sonerson will come on

today – reached here at noon. Boys came

back this evening – “Dicks” feet frozen and

the boys noses are “touched”.

Jany 11th The thermometer stood about 58°

below zero all day, and we will not leave

Robertsons cabin while it is so cold. Jessen

and Ed. brought in two loads of wood with the

dog team – we sharpened knives, cleaned

guns &c.

Jany 12th. This morning at 4 oclock the thermom

eter stood at 60° below zero, - during the

day it became warmer and tonight it is

but 40° below – hope to go on in the morning

everything ready for the run.

[page break]

Jany 13th Thermometer up to 35° below

this morning and we start on our journey

to the highest cabin on the river, where we hope

to hunt and prospect. Soon after leaving

Robertsons we struck the tracks of five large

wolves, who followed up the trail for miles.

Passed a splendid frozen waterfall on north

side of the river – came down off the mountain

- spread out like a miniature Niagara – the ice

is about 30 feet wide – and probably 50 feet or

more high. It is heavily glaciered on the hill

below, and also on the river. The ice is colored

- yellowish, and looks like yellow variegated

marble – or limestone. About 8 miles above

Flume Creek, on the south bank of Seventy Mile

stands a rock which I have called “Portico Rock”

It is a lone rock the front of which projects very

much like the heavy stone portico of of a over

the entrance to a great stone building. The

projecting front is formed into what appears

to be a carved outline of the human profile.

[page break]

Afternoon we reach the forks of the river.

Dearmond Fork is the south branch while the

main river comes from the right – up which

we labored. We saw great bands of Cariboo

on the mountains just above us, - the river

was beaten like a highway and trails ran

across it like heavy cattle trails on the

Prairies of the West. There must have been

innumerable cariboo here, - we ran them

off the river ice – they walk on ice and

frozen snow without slipping. Sorenson

Fred and I reached McNeals cabin – Fred nearly

frozen – thermometer 50° below zero. Jessen

and Ed. reached camp after leaving one sled

5 miles below.

Jany 14th – Thermometer 54° below – boys

went and brought up second sled. Sorenson

went up river three miles, climbed high mountain

&c. but saw no sign of mountain sheep.

We cleaned and fixed up cabin – but it is too

cold to go out hunting.

[page break]

Jany 15th. Sorenson and I climbed the

mountain at the south of Friday Creek, a

mile down the river from our camp. We

reach the summits probably 3000 feet above

the river, and just as we reached the dome

the sun shone on us from over the mountains

to the south. It was a beautiful morning

- clear and cloudless, and the sunrise

was gorgeous. Seventy-Mile rises within

an amphitheatre of snowy mountains

beyond whose rims we could not see – they

were all touched with the red sunrise and

they had the appearance of reflecting a great

fire just behind the whole great amphitheatre.

It was a glorious sunrise. From my high

perch I could see across the divide to the north

and down upon the distant Yukon, down

the whole valley of the Seventy Mile again to the

Yukon. Far to the east, across the Yukon one

could see the steep end of the great Rocky Mt.

range. We hunted carefully over the summits

[page break]

visited Sorensons sheep peaks – but not a

sign of sheep. It was 50° below zero at

camp all day – at times even colder – but

on the summits it was much warmer – I think

at least 10° warmer. When we came down

off the mountains into the river we immediately

became much colder – this seems to arise

from the heavy cold air settling in the low land

and the light {sun} warmed air playing round the mount

=ain summits. We followed cariboo trails

over the highest summits. The boys killed

7 ptarmigan today – Sonerson orinson and I will

go up river tomorrow.

Jany 16th. Went up Seventy Mile to its very

head and climbed the great mountain at

the right – about 6000 feet. We found fresh

sheep tracks and finally I saw the sheep –

but alas! at half a mile and running.

Will go back in the morning – the view

from these high mountains was sublime.

We took the thermometer along, but on

the mountain top it only went down to

[page break]

30° below, although it was 50° below

when we left camp, and 47½° below

when we returned at night. From

our perch on this high mountain we could

see the course of Charlie River and its

tributaries, and 50 miles away the

Yukon lay like a great serpent.

Saw Indian camps (old) on the

right side of right fork of river.

Jany 17th Went out with Sorenson & Jessen

and had just reached the point of the mountain

when we saw the sheep yesterday when Jessens

pack of dogs came up wagging their tails

and looking perfectly happy. Jessen had to go

back to camp with them. Sorenson and I

went on to the summits, climbed the highest peak

on the north side of Seventy Mile, from which

I saw the flats at Circle City – the whole

sweep of Charlie river, and the whole of

the Yukon from near the mouth of Seventy

Mile to the Yukon Flats. The country

[page break]

lay before me like a great relief map, -

but not a sheep could we find. We found

tracks and fresh sign in abundance, but

the day is too short to give time to reach

the summits and hunt before night. I

cannot hunt longer – business is being

neglected and I must go home tomorrow.

I only came to stay seven days, and am

now out fourteen, but the frightful cold

has prevented us from reaching the summits

except for the last two days. There are

sheep here, - signs are abundant but it is

a question of more time. We start home

in the morning. I name the high mountain

on the right – at the head of Sixty Seventy Mile,

and between that and the Waters of Charley River

- Mt Sorenson, in honor of my guide who

first reached its summit. From its lofty

summit we saw the outline of the Yukon

and Charlie and even the end of the mountain

at Circle City, and the Yukon Flats

[page break]

The peaks at the head of Seventy Mile are

rounded, but Mt. Sorenson and attached

peaks are perpendicular on the Charley

Rivers side – like this.

[captions with sketch of mountains:] Seventy Mile Charley River

I cannot give a correct map, but the

following is an approximation of that

of Seventy Mile, at its head, and Charley River

[captions with sketched map of rivers:] Mt. Sorenson Circle City

70 Mile River Charley River

[page break]

Charley River runs around the headquarw[aters?]

[o]f Seventy Mile and heads with Forty

Mile. We saw a beautiful sunset

from Mt Sorenson. The sun was set

and its rays just touching the summits o[n?]

our range passed over the Yukon and

just touched the summits on the eastern

range. In a short time they ceased

to rest on the snowy eastern mountai[ns]

but struck the sky line above –

The {distant} summits were snowy white, the

space between {Just above} the summits blue, and

the whole sky above was filled with the

[r]osiest of sunlit hues. It made a

[g]orgeous picture, but to be appreciated

[i]t must be seen.

[Jan]y 18th We left our camp this morn[ing]

[to go?] home. Sorenson, Fred and I ahead

[?]ot. We passed through a great her[d]

[of c]ariboo, - a hundred yards away [?]

[page break]

[si?]mply gazed at them which comp[?]

[?]y returned in kind. When Ed & Jesse

[c]ame along however they killed a fine

fat one and brought into Robertsons

cabin at Flume Creek, - we intended

when we started to reach Sorensons

but when we arrived at Robertsons

it was late and growing very much

colder so we remained over night [?]

Robertson. Maine hunter and guide –

21 years in Maine militia, Captain

miner, cook, watchmaker – his [?]

saw mill &c. Thermometer 56° below

Jany 19th Thermometer this morn[ing]

60° below zero. Ed and I are

going on with one sled. Fred and

Jessen remain with the other sled

We reached Sorensons at the mouth of [?]

[g]ulch about 10 oclock and left him [?]

[?] went on to McLaughlins at [?]

[page break]

the Barney Creek cabin [?]

having traveled {walked} 25 miles with the thermometer

below 50° below zero. It hurts ones

lungs to breath such cold air, but

otherwise we are no worse for the trip

Late this evening the weather seems to be

changing – it is now – 9 oclock, but

45° below zero, and we hope it will

be warmer in the morning. Have had

a long talk with Ed. Crouch and have

persuaded him to go with me on the

journey to Rampart and then to give

up mining and go home. He agrees

to do so, and it is much to his advantage.

Saw moose, cariboo and wolf sign in

abundance across our trail today.

Jany 20th There is a complete change in

the weather this morning – it is cloudy

windy and the thermometer is only to zero.

Barring drifted trails we ought to get

along well today. Robertson told

[page break]

me about a moose killed two years ago

just below here by two wolves. They

attacked the moose some miles to the

south of the Seventy Mile, and ran him

to that stream, having drawn blood

before reaching there. As soon as they

could run him on the ice they did so

whereupon they both seized him, he

fell on the ice, and slipping and fighting {sliding}

he fought them for half a mile, the wolves

all the time cunningly keeping him

on the ice, where they finally killed him.

The moose is a tremendous animal,

weighing 1200 to 1800 lbs. and can kill

a wolf with one stroke of his front hoof

yet they are able to hunt him successfully.

A miner told me this story about cariboo

hunting, which is not quite as correct possibly

Finding a herd of cariboo he crept carefully

near and fired. The report of the gun caused

the animals to start suddenly, leap away

[page break]

and pump quickly; it was at the season

when they were shedding their horns, and

the only result secured by his shot was

an acre of cariboo horns which they

shed in the shock. Both moose and

cariboo are know sometimes to shed their

horns upon such a start, hence the story.

A hunter told me that neither the moose,

cariboo nor any other animal which

shed its horns, has a gall bladder!

There are two varieties of the wolf in this

neighborhood – or rather two colors

common to the same variety – the black

and gray. They are large timber wolves

and look so exactly like the native dog

that, Sorenson tells me, he met four – two

black and two gray, one day here in the

Barney cabin canyon and he hesitated

to shoot believing them to be dogs – when

hist! they were gone. Often when the

female dog is in heat the Indians tie

[page break]

her out near the haunt of the wolves, and

the male wolf visits her, and the offspring

is said to be an improvement on the

Indian dogs. “Jack” the leader in

our team sits on his haunches, now,

before me, his great teeth and wolfish

eyes glistening, his figure and black

coat proving beyond doubt his near

kin to the wolf. The Indians sometimes,

it is said, procure a cross between their

dogs and the fox – a fact for which I

cannot vouch. # Ed woke up this

morning early and having no watch he

got up about 3 oclock, we had breakfast

prepared to travel and yet it was too dark

I went to bed again and took another nap

but afterwhile it became light enough to

see and we started. The change is tempera

ture brought a wind which filled the trail

full and I walked ahead of the team

all day long with the wind on my face

[page break]

breaking trail. The constant rolling

all day pretty nearly lamed me in the

ankles, and I can hardly walk tonight

We reached Fox Creek cabin early, having

travelled 25 miles since morning.

Jany 21st We left the Fox Creek cabin

this morning – thermometer 20° below

trail up Rock creek good, growing

warmer: reached Eagle bout 3:00

oclock, having traveled 21 miles in

7 hours. Every thing all right.

Jany 22nd. Mail today from both

directions. Darrells letter is much

more hopeful than formerly. Signed

judgment in U.S. v. Teeters – that left

pay costs of proceeding – Recd. salary

voucher {check} $407.60 for Nov. vouchers for

July to Oct. not yet received (Dec 27.) in

Washington. Valdez route is a fraud.

Jany 23rd Wrote Geo. T. Reid, and sent

him $224.00 to pay $166.66 on additional

[page break]

twenty (20) acres to be purchased

in Indian reservation at Tacoma

also balance on Buckley lot taxes.

Jany 24th Worked all day and evening

on Allen v. Myers. In evening

Walters came over and assisted me

in preparing specifications for the

Courthouse.

Jany 25th Worked all day on prep

=aring specifications for Courthouse.

In sending George T. Reids letter

the $224. was left out – sent it

today but it will be a week behind.

Jany 28th Working all week on plans

and specifications for Jail and Court

House, also case of Allen v. Myers.

Made agreement with Fred & Ed. Crouch

and Ed. Jessen by which Mrs. Wickersham

and I pay 2/5 of amount for supplies

($70. paid, supplies bought of N.A.T. Co.)

and agree to pay our share of a reasonable

[page break]

amount for working claims. Fred,

Ed. & Jessen go in morning with a

load of provisions to bar [far?] below the falls

on Seventy Mile River, to stake claims

inspected by us while their. Five claims

are to be staked, and we are to own the

same in common.

Jany 30th At a meeting of the Study

Club last night, upon my suggestion

a Committee of Three consisting of Messrs

Bevington, Mills and Chamberlain

was appointed to consider the establish

ment of a Public Library in Eagle.

Called for bids from the four

Company stores for supplying all the

hardware, nails, and paper for the

courthouse and jail.

Jany 31st. Upon request I met with

Committee on Public Library; formulated

plan for organizing the library -

[page break]

[February 1901]

Febry 1st Opened the bids at 1 oclock

at the Clerks office for erecting the

Courthouse and jail: bids as follows.

Howard & Drebelbis $2000.

Jackson 2260.

Walters 3400.

Heath 3900.

Widman 3925.

The bid for lumber is $65.00 per M.

and other bids have been received for

other materials. Marshal and Clerk

and I will meet at 7 oclock to

determine if $8000. will finish

both building, and if so the contract

will be immediately let.

Febry 2nd Contract made with Howard

& Driebelbis to build Court House & Jail

also with Johanson for all lumber at

$65.00 per M. Fred. Crouch filed on

placer claim for himself, Debbie

[page break]

and me, just below The Falls on the

Seventy Mile River. Locations

recorded today. Supplies will

all reach there by next load by

dog team tomorrow: Jessen &

Ed. Crouch will not file until after

they prospect the ground in the summer

Fred will file a water claim and

mill site on the falls.

Febry 4th. Mail in today from

outside. Recd. check for salary

for July – Oct. = $1671. From

Darrell & others. Sent out for the

stores &c. to make out accounts

for my last six months bills.

Febry. 5. Paid the following accounts

A. E. Co. to date $142.60

N. A. T. Co “ “ 289.61

Johansen “ “ 155.85

A. C. Co. “ “ 209.70

S. Y. T. Co. ” “ 167.50

[page break]

Febry 8th I have several important

cases involving valuable mines, and

the organization of the civil authority

in Rampart, as well as some important

cases relating to mandamus of mining

recorders at Circle City – in short a

large amount of business of great

public importance in the most distant

parts of my district that ought to have

immediate attention. If I wait

until the river opens I cannot get

down to Rampart and back by July

1st the date when the regular term of

this court must meet at Eagle City.

So I have called a special term of Court

to meet at Rampart on Mch 4, and I

start for that place in the morning accom

=panied by Ed. Crouch and a dog team

- a journey of 519 miles afoot over the

Yukon river ice. No other official

{supplies $12.00}

goes with me, - no one wanted to go!

[page break]

Feby 9th It was a beautiful sunshiny

morning – thermometer 30° below zero –

we left Eagle at 10 oclock having deter

mined on going only to Star – at mouth of

the Seventy Mile River. Trail along side of

Yukon river ice, but filled with snow, and

broken and bad. We reached Star at 4:00

oclock in pretty good shape – 5 dogs with

3000 #s on sled. We put up with Ed. Jessen

in his cabin – first class accommodation

and splendid supper – beans, bread, {butter}

and Hamburg {Moose} steak. Distance 20 miles.

As we came down the bank of Seventy Mile

Riv. I held back on the handle bars, the sled

upset, caught me and turned my heels

where my head was and threw me several

feet out into a snow bank. 40° below zero.

Febry 10th It was 52° below zero this

morning when we left Star – a bright

clear morning – cloudless but cold.

At noon it was 42 and tonight 43° below

[page break]

The trail was heavy and bad all the way

to Montauk. It had not been traveled

since the last snow and I walked ahead

and broke trail part of the day. The trail

ran along the edge of the shore ice, upon

shelf and we had to lift the sled up and

sometimes down – often it ran off sideways.

We reached Montauk at 3 oclock, and

could have gone on to Nation river but

it was too cold and I was too sore and

stiff. The road house here is kept by

young White, a Long Island, N.Y. boy,

who came into the country after a fortune

in 1898. Distance traveled today 20 miles.

Febry 11th We determined last night

not to leave Montauk until late in the

morning and only go to Nation River –

14 miles. Trail very bad – unbroken and

heavy with snow, - thermometer 40° below

all day – load heavy. Thermometer tonight

52° below – we may not move from here tomorrow.

[page break]

Feby 12. Thermometer this morning was

56° below zero, and we remained in camp

today – tonight it is up to 35° below

and we hope for warmer weather by

morning. Nation city is three miles

from Ivy City – both are “busted booms”

- mining booms. Hank Pennoyer is

an inhabitant of Nation City – he is

a Mt. Vernon, Wash. logger and a

good citizen. A trapper over on

Nation River by the name of Smart

- has several cabins and tents along

river – has 150 marten skins – several

black and some white wolf skins.

Febry 13th It was 45° below when we left

Nation this morning, but within an hour it

had gone down to 50°; it was 35° at noon

and 40° below when we went in for the night.

We broke trail, and it was bad to half the

distance between Nation river and

Washington Creek – where we met

[page break]

the first team on the river – the up

river mail carrier – at noon today.

His trail made mark for our team

to follow and we went much faster

in consequence. We reached Wash

=ington Creek at 2:30 and went on

to Charlie creek – having traveled

34 miles according to Downings mail

route. Staid all night with the

Indians – gave each little fellow 10¢

- 14 smaller than ten years old.

Febry 14th Left Indian camp with

thermometer 42° below, dropped to

25° below at noon - 40° below tonight

Good trail today, and we reached

Coal Creek for night – 24 miles.

My ankle is bad – paining me every

step and badly swollen. Made

a big blister on my well foot while

trying to aid the other. Just two

days out from Circle City now.

[page break]

Febry 15th 50° below this morning &

we did not leave Coal Creek until 10

a.m. Bray, who is prospecting for

coal up that stream came down to

Mocks – keeper of the roadhouse, before

we left. Says he has good bituminous

coal 9 miles up the creek. I left the

cabin half hour ahead of dog team

and traveled 12 miles before Ed. caught

up with me. Thermometer rose to -30°

and a wind sprang up, and was much

more unpleasant and uncomfortable

than even -40°. We reached Webbers

at 2 oclock and owing to the bitter

wind and distance to next roadhouse

put up for the night at Webbers – 16 mi

from Coal Creek – and long ones, too.

“Pete, the Pig”, lives at mouth of Wood

-chopper Creek, about 6 mi. this side

of Coal Creek. Pete, the Pig, “Mag, the

Rag” - live at Circle, & “Windy Jim” are

[page break]

characters. Webber is in a way

another. He is irascible and cross,

the world is upside down – the mail

couriers know his weakness, and have

combined to annoy him. He has a

fine body of the timber at his cabin that

he has been protecting against fire

for two years intending to cut it into

cordwood next year. They have

informed him that Downing the

mail contractor intends to establish

a mail station and a large wood

yard here to cut the timber - a word

each trip, - some new item of lie

carefully and artlessly dropped keeps

him in a continual rage – and

Downing knows nothing of it and

has no intention of taking his place

How much trouble we do borrow in

this life.

Febry 16. We left Webbers at 9.

[page break]

- the thermometer at 38° below and the

wind blowing a gale. Luckily it

blew down stream, and rather gave

us aid. We made a mistake in not

starting at 6 oclock, for we could

have made Circle if we had. We

reached Johnsons but 22 miles

from Circle at 2 oclock, and will

start early in the morning so as to

reach Circle early. Johnson is a fat

goodnatured son of Scandinavia

Weather tonight is much moderated

- only -20°. Trails are now good

- my feet are growing strong and with

moderate weather we can go rapidly.

Febry 17th Left Johnsons at 7 a.m.

and reached Circle City at 1 p.m. -

distance 26 miles. Thermometer at

daylight 30° below. Took dinner

with Lizzie & Edgar, wrote letter to Debbie

visited with Claypool, Hamilton &

[page break]

met Bishop Rowe – attended

church tonight. We leave in the

morning at 6 a.m. & will try to make

Halfway Roadhouse – ½ way to

Ft. Yukon. Everything here seems all

right: two parties to declare their intentions

- Becker recorder appeared before me

in mining recorder case. Bishop Rowe

appeared in the pulpit in full Episcopal

vestments – wearing moccasins. He talked

to me about conditions at Tacoma – said

soldiers were forcing their way into Indian

cabins &c. that things had improved very

much at Circle & criticised Gehmle.

18th Febry. Left Circle this morning at

6.30 about half hour ahead of Ed & his

team – he did not catch up with me

until I stopped at the 20 Mile Roadhouse

at noon. We left there at one oclock

and reached the Half Way roadhouse

at 6.30 – distance today 45 miles

[page break]

Sun rose at 8 a.m. set at 4 p.m.

Magnificent day, clear, cloudless and

20° below zero. Trails just a little

rough.

Febry 10th -35° below this morning.

Left Halfway Roadhouse at

7 oclock and reach Seventeen

Mile Roadhouse at 2 oclock.

We could easily have reached

Ft. Yukon, but our feet are

sore, and we can get in tomorrow

before noon anyway. I want to

stay half a day there and this

just makes it right. My right

foot is badly blistered on the

bottom. Mirage to the

westward yesterday and today

- church – elevator, flouring [?]

& rolling mill. Today bris[?]

like clounds[?] on summits – sp[?]

- bridges – cannons -

[page break]

We passed much open water

today, the main channel is open

along here and running fast and

deep. We cross and recross it &

it seems very dangerous – the

ice is breaking & falling in.

New moon – thermometer

-25° below tonight.

{Distance 22 miles.}

Cash at Circle, pd. provisions $12.75

“ “ Ed. Crouch 25.00

Febry 20th Reached Ft Yukon

at noon & remained rest of day

Magnificent day – mirage from

Ft. Y_ grand, northern lights.

Entertained by Mr. Mountifield

& took supper with Rev. Mr. Wo[oden?]

Distance today 14 miles.

This – morning -25° - night 2

Pd Ed. Crouch on act. $50.00

Febry 21. Left Ft. Yukon at

6:30 afoot, and walked without

[page break]

sitting down, into Bretts Cabin at

Willow Point, distance 35 miles

time 9 hours, condition, crippled

up in the ankles. Ed. Left Ft.

Yukon half an hour after I did

and came into Bretts an hour

after. Thermometer this morning

at Ft. Yukon - 35° below, but

clear and warmer during the day

Ed. is all broke up in his ankles

and feet, and the dogs are footsore

- I stand it better than they do.

Febry 22. Left Britts at 6.30 a.m.

Magnificent camp: Thermometer -30° below

Walked 20 miles before Ed and team

overtook me. Knee sprain somewhat

but feel better today than any day

since we left home. Met the

A.C. Co party on their way from

St Micheal to Dawson – Menzies

the Auditor, Hill, Marion and

[page break]

Trump – they had three dog teams

with six dogs in each, - 18 dogs.

Peterson and McDonald, mail

carriers staid with us at Bretts

last night. McDonald carries

the mail from Bretts to first cabin

south of Ft. Yukon: Peterson takes

it from Britts down to Smiths &

came out with us today. Sent a

letter back home by McDonald.

Julius cabin 25 mi. from Bretts.

Febry. 23rd From Julius’ cabin to

Victors is 30 miles – we left first

place at 6:30, or rather I did for

Ed. team and the mail man left an

hour later. I walked 25 miles

before they caught me at 2.30. At

Victors cabin I found Mr. Lewis

whom I met last summer at his

wood yard 12 below Britts cabin,

and who went {duck} hunting with me

[page break]

while the “Susie” took on wood.

Ed. is completely exhausted and

his ankle is so badly swollen

that he thinks we must lay off

tomorrow to rest. So far I

have walked all the way and given

him the entire sled – but he still

grows worse and it may be the

best to lay off one day – will

determine in the morning.

Febry 24. I walked 22 miles

today, from Victors to Smith Cabin,

reached the latter place about half

an hour ahead of the team, - 30°

below this morning, but much warmer

tonight & looks like rain or snow.

Eds ankle is better and he now

thinks he can make it in. Write

home and Peterson will take

it back with him – this is the end

of his run. Shaved & washed.

[page break]

Febry 25th Wrote home {last night} to Howard

saying what beautiful weather we had

been blessed with so far – and then

last night it snowed! This morning

when I left Smiths Cabin the wind

was blowing keenly from the north,

the trail was filled and traveling very

bad. Reached Carsh’s Cabin 15 mi

from Smiths, - the next cabin is 22

miles farther – and was glad to rest.

Walked an hour ahead of the team

which seems of no advantage except

to haul its own feed. Thermometer

this morning 5° above zero! the

warmest weather so far on our trip,

but a bitter north wind blowing.

Feb. 26th Left Carsh’s cabin at

8 oclock this morning and “broke trail”

through badly drifted snow on the

river for 2 miles. Poor trails today

- wind and clouds of fine snow -

[page break]

Reached Ross cabin – 22 miles

from Carsh’s, - traveled all day with

Salmon, the mail carrier, who

drove ahead at noon and “broke

trail” this afternoon. Met a lot

of Indians going out to hunt

moose. Ross, the roadhouse

man, is from Puyallup, and is a

brother of E. W. Ross, of Castle Rock

Wash. one time a candidate for Atty.

Genl. on Rep. Ticket, & later one of

Ankenys managers. Will reach

Ft. Hamlin tomorrow. Temperature

this morning -17° below zero. 22

miles today – walked.

Febry 27th We left Ross’ Cabin this

morning with Salmon, the mail carrier,

and ran into Ft Hamlin at 2 oclock

- 30 miles in 7 hours. Wrote to Howard

tonight. Hurricane of wind and snow

at our backs all day. Walked all day.

[page break]

We were kindly entertained at Ft. Hamlin

by Mr. Schidel, who set us a fine supper,

and gave us good bed and lodging.

Febry 28th We left Ft Hamlin this

morning in a frightful Dakota bliz

=zard, - wind coming into the Water

Gap off the flats at 30 miles per hr.

and {accompanied by}

dense clouds of snow. After 5

miles down the river we found it some

better but a hurricane of wind and

snow at our backs pushed us along

all day. About 8 mi from Ft Hamlin

we met “Jimmy” Oldfield, the mail

carrier going in, accompanied by

Kimball, one of the intervenors in

Allen v. Myers. He was on his way

to Ft. Hamlin to meet my party hoping

that either French of Claypool would

be along, but he was disappointed.

Ate lunch at Andersons, 15 miles

out of Ft Hamlin when Kimball

[page break]

remained for the night while we

went on to the mouth of Salt Creek –

It is now snowing again, but the

wind has died out. Distance 23 mi.

[March 1901]

Mch 1st. Our accommodations at

Salt Creek were bad – small cold cabin

- etc. Left there ahead of the team

- 10 miles down the river I met the whole

tribe of Athapascans from Rampart

out on a moose hunt. Nine large

sleds – 30 people including men

women and papooses, snow

shoes, &c. They moved across the

river and went into camp at noon

intending to hunt a day or so out on

the divide – the Indian kills a

moose & then moves to it & camps

after it is eaten he hunts, kills

another, moves to it, eats it, &c. &c

Reached Tuckers cabin for the

night. 25 miles traveled.

[page break]

The mail carrier - Jimmy Old

=field & Kimball came in &

we remained with them in the mail

cabin.

Mch. 2nd Left mail cabin with

Kimball at 6.30 - 2½ miles to

Drews Coal Mine, opposite Mike

Hess Creek. Ed. Caught up

with me, & we reached Rampart

at 2 oclock - Distance 30 miles.

People are surprised to see me

- say that they had no idea that

I would come - that I made a

very quick trip, &c Bath, shave

- lunch, &c. &c. Room in the

rear of N. A. T. Co Store - It

looks as if the business of the

court would not be heavy, but

I have done well to come -

Will write home tomorrow -

Take breakfast with Wiggins in morning

[page break]

Mch 3rd Took 12 m. breakfast

with Col. & Mrs Wiggins. Wrote home.

Mch. 4th Court convened at 11 a.m.

appointed James B. Wingate, deputy

Clerk. Parties in Allen v. Myers not

ready – but I announced that I

would present my views on the jurisdic

=tion of the court tomorrow at 10 a.m.

Shall dismiss the action. Business

of court in poor way – for want of

competent lawyers to handle it.

Mch 5. Rendered a decision in

the case of Allen v. Myers, et. al. this

morning, holding that court had no

jurisdiction in equity to quit title

to mining claim against adverse claim

=ants, but that the remedy was legal under

special proceedings provided in Secs. 2325

-2326. R. S. Will dismiss case tomorrow

- dissolve injunction & provide for payment

of Trustee Baker. Took dinner

[page break]

with Mr. P. Kaffenbaugh, & visited

during the evening at Col. Wiggins -

Mch. 6th - Allen v. Myers goes over

until Saturday on motion to amend.

Other business will be wound up then

and I can go home on Monday.

took dinner with Col & Mrs Wiggins

tonight - present Mr. & Mrs. Edwards,

Judge Balliet, Mr Young [?] & Lt.

Rogers & Dr. Twedie, U. S. A.

Mch. 7th. Went out to Little Minook

Creek, today - 8 a.m. this day - Dog team

went also. Visited "Idaho Bar", and

met Mr. Wm G. Atwood, U.S. Min. Sur.

and Mr. Crowley, manager in chard

"Idaho Bar" belongs to Erastus Brainerd

Esq. & associates of Seattle. They have run

a terminal in from the hillside on bedrock

500 feet above valley, and have sunk

3 shafts to bedrock, all of which

will be connected by the tunnel.

[page break]

12 men working there: two steam

thawers, &c. It looks prosperous

and more like mining than any

thing I have seen this side of the

"Gold Hill" mines at Bonanza Creek

Dawson. Visited McGraws claim

on Little Minook - they were unfortunate

enough a few days ago to drift too

near some old diggings – tunnels,

and water broke through and filled

all their shafts and drifts, and they

are now fitting up a steam pump to

clear them out. Did not go over to

Minook, Jr. as I intended. This is

an interesting locality aside from its

mines. Ore miner has removed from

his mine the long 9 ft. tusks of a

mastadon with teeth & other remains.

Out of No. 24, they recently took the

tremendous horns of an extinct

and fossil buffalo: Mr. O. P. Thomson

[page break]

tells me of one of these which he &

his partners dug out on El Dorado

on the Klondike. Its back was

22 ft below the surface: it stood

on its feet, and was 9 feet high.

Their shaft was sunk into it &

the smell was yet so strong that

they were forced to sink another

shaft and drift them together to

clean the first shaft of the smell.

I am also told that on the Koyukuk

there is a bank which is being

undermined by the river and from

the mass of these ancient remains

and their scent is know as the

“Stink Bank”. I have seen some

large bones from that locality.

Mch. 8th Took pictures of “Buffalo” horns

& Mastadon tusks. Nothing particular

except conference with Commissioner

[page break]

Balliet, Dept. Marshal Gehmle

& Mr. Knapp about vigorous enforce

-ment of the law in relation to

selling liquor to Indians, &c.

Spent the evening at Mr & Mrs.

Billy Edwards (Rec. U.S. Land Office)

Mch. 9th Had a hard day in

court: dismissed the case of

Allen v. Myers, et. al. and Myers

began a new suit: injunction

granted &c. Courthouse was

on front street, log house, one

story - jail on second street

back - log house - one story.

Recd. letter from Debbie saying

that she had letter from Darrell

& he was O.K. Good. I start

home Monday morning in

company with mail carrier &

Lt. Camden, of the "Nunivak"

everything ready, now, to go.

[page break]

Mar 10th Spent day in preparing

orders and correcting record

of term & putting it in proper

shape. Have pd. Ed. Crouch

on account to date $175.00.

Made some Kodak views.

Took dinner with Col. & Mrs. Wiggins

After dinner Mr. Fleischman & Mr.

Lawrence gave us music - violin & piano

Lt. Rogers, Dr. Twedie, U.S.A. & other

gentlemen came in & we spent

pleasant evening. Am packed

to go on trail in the morning.

Appointed J. Lindsey Green a Notary

Public. on Mch 9th Gov. Brady having

sent me blank commissions for

that purpose before he left Alaska

for Washington. Bond will be

taken for approval : Fee $10.00 paid to me

[page break]

Mch. 11th In company with Lieut.

B.H. Camden, U.S.S. "Nunivak", I

left Rampart at 7:30 and we

walked 18 miles before the dog teams

caught us. Oldfield, mail

carrier came with dog team and the

mail along with Ed, and our team

Gehmle, Dep. U.S. Marshal also

came out to Drews Coal mine to

serve papers in some lien cases.

After a long, hard days work we

reached Tuckers cabin - 30 miles from

Rampart for the night, to find the small

cabin already inhabited by 13 wood

choppers on their way up to Dall River.

Lieut. Camden and I slept in an ad-

-joining cabin. Today was very windy

- it blew in our faces most all day and

it is getting worse. The owner of our

cabin tonight is a Mr. Clinton, who

[page break]

went from Alaska to South Africa

to mine, thence he came into Asia and

wound up at "New California" a

mining region on the Amur river: A

guard of Chinese troops put him

out of the country: he went through

Corea, and Japan - and is now in

his gray-haired years catching fish

and cutting cordwood on the banks of

the Yukon - a typical prospector.

Mch. 12th. Left Tuckers cabin at

7.00 a.m. with Mr. Camden, and faced

a blizzard for 20 miles before the team

caught me. Reached "Andersons

Cabin at 7 oclock - 32 long, weary

windy miles - The storm is increasing

in force - cloudy - dark and snowing

a little. Slept on the floor again,

- but slept like a log.

Mch. 13th Mr. Camden and I left

[page break]

Andersons this morning in a perfect

fog of compressed air and snow.

It came into our faces, the snow blew

into our eyes and faces and froze &

we were forced to walk backwards when

the trail was solid enough to bear us up.

As our cavalcade approached Ft

Hamlin we could not have stood

up but by holding to the handes of

our sleds. We held on blindly

and our teams guided us in to the

A.C. store at 1 oclock – Here we

found Downing, the mail Contractor

and a carrier: we had a warm

lunch and Ed and I started out

for the “Nunivak” leaving Mr. Camden

to come on tomorrow when Downing

returns up the river. As we came

out the Yukon Water Gap, where

the Yukon leaves the wide flats

[page break]

and plunges into the mountains the

gale increased to a hurricane &

the snow and ice cut our faces.

We could only hold on and run

and in three hours – at 5 oclock,

we found ourselves floundering

in the drifts at the mouth of Dall

River. When once we overcame the

drifts and violent wind and entered

behind the banks of the Dall, we

found comparitive calm, and a good

trail up the river a mile where to our

relief we saw the welcome lights of

the vessel ahead of us. Sent my

card in to the commander and was

heartily welcomed by Captain

Cantwell, of the U.S. Revenue service

He took his vessel into the Dall last

summer – or fall, before the freeze up,

and let her freeze here for the winter

[page break]

She has a crew of 36 men and 5

officers, among whom I found

Dr. White, whom I have hereto

=for known as a student of ethnology

Had a good supper with Capt. Cantwell

and a good warm bath – and a

clean bed and sound sleep. The

storm is increasing – the wind

howling and whistling overhead.

Mch. 14th I intended to leave the

Nunivak this morning in time to

stop an hour at the Indian village

5 miles up the Yukon, before Downing

and the mail carrier came along, but

was persuaded by Capt. Cantwell &

Ed – and the storm, to wait until

Downing and Camden came in

from Ft. Hamlin, which they did at

10:30 They reported the worst wind

and snow storm of the winter

[page break]

raging and howling down the

Yukon and Downing suggested

that we lie by until tomorrow as

it was almost impossible to stand

in face of it, and all trails were

entirely lost and that the snow and

terrible wind blinded the dogs. After

convincing myself that it would be

foolhardy to go, I agreed to remain

over a day, - Downing and the mail

carrier went a short distance above

us – on the Dall river, where the A.C.

Co.s steamer “Alice” is wintering, and

put up for a day, - we go out together

in the morning if the weather permits.

Visited the Indian village at the

mouth of Dall river today with Capt.

Cantwell, - most of the Indians are

out hunting moose, only the sick &

their attendants remain, - bought

some “iktas” – stone knife - bone scraper

[page break]

Lt. Camden was “bilger” from Annapolis

while Sampson was commandant.

Mch. 15th Downing and Salmon the

mail carrier came by the Nunivak about

7.30 but we were slow and did not get

out until an hour later. When we

got out of Dall river on the Yukon

we found the wind still blowing, but not

like yesterday. We stopped at the

Indian village 6 miles above the

mouth of Dall river – there were but

two families at home, all the rest being

out moose hunting. Reached Ross’

cabin for the night; 26 mi from Ft. Hamlin

Mch 16th On trail from Ross to Carsh’s

- bad trail, deep snow with the light crust

through which we are continually plun

=ging to our waist. At one crossing

of the river {we} broke through into the water

but escaped with only slight wetting

Met Manchester {Wood} agent of A. E. Co.

[page break]

traveling in state: he had an Indian

ahead with 4 dogs and a tobaggan

locating trail: he followed with sled

and 9 dogs and a driver. He

had nothing in his sled but robes

and is reported to have said that

his expenses from White Horse

to that point were $2000! By the

side of the turnouts of these Co. agents

my outfit is poor. Trail very bad

today- Found Waldron at Carsh’s

roadhouse – he is a longhaired

genius and is on his road to

Nome. He walked 4 miles yester {today!}

He started from Eagle on Feb 14, and

has traveled 375 mi in 30 days or little

more than 10 mi per day. He will probably

get to Nome on a boat after the river

breaks up. Downing and carrier went

Mch 17 {4 miles on} to mail cabin, while Ed & I

stopped for the night with Carsh.

[page break]

Mch 17. A beautiful day – morning

noon and night. Clear, mild and

without wind. Left Carsh’s cabin

at 7.15 – reach Smiths relay cabin

at noon where we got lunch: met three

Indians {William, Harry & Dick}

with 4 moose and 4 cariboo.

Reached Victors at 6.30 – distance

traveled today 37 miles – walked,

and assisted in managing the sled -

was a two days journey in going down

At Victors tonight are Downing, the

mail contractor, with Salmon and

Peterson, carriers. Lewis & Victor

Ed. and I, and 26 dogs. I took

Lewis watch down to Rampart for

him and had it mended & returned

it today – Dog “Nelly” & Downings leader

in house – 23 dogs at door – during night

pandemonium – Downing called but no

answer – then felt in dark – their dogs out & a

great dog fight resulted – {wounded dogs in the

morning

[page break]

Mch. 18th Left Victor’s at 7. and had

a splendid days walk to Julius’ cabin

30 miles. Rode on tobaggon about a

mile: Peterson, mail carrier uses one & it

is a splendid way of traveling. He had five

dogs attached tandem, and they went as fast

as a good horse trots. Also rode four

miles with Downing on mail sled. I

enjoyed days walk immensely and we

reached Julius’ to find three other dog

teams ahead of us, with eleven dogs.

With our teams there were 28 dogs present

Julius cabin is about 10 X 12 – 6 foot high

at eaves – in it slept 9 men and 3 dogs.

Mch 19th I left Julius cabin at 7.30

and spent half an hour at Indian camp

at “White Eye”, at tepee of “Jim” who has

a wife and four children. In the same

tepee resides the widow and child of old

“Simon” who died about a month ago -

[page break]

As the tepee is a typical {old} Athapascan

tent I give an outline of it.

[plan view of tent]

[captions:] Bed place door (a. stove)

The tent is about oval shaped in ground

plan, about six feet wide and ten feet

long. “Jim”, wife and 4 children occupy one

end, and the widow and child, and a half

grown boy staying with her occupy the other

end – A stove in the center furnish a fire

for cooking. Beds of cariboo skin, on

the ground. Tent on bent poles, made of

old tent cloth and cariboo skin, while

door is peice of cariboo skin with heavy

stick on bottom. Four dogs also occupied

the house with the two families. Smoke hole in

center – stove pipe in it. A pile of new

moose skins lay on the floor, and joints of

meat lay on bed in the pan.

{No relics – nothing but tin pans &c.} I walked

15 miles along trail before Peterson on his

[page break]

tobaggan caught up with me. Ed &

Downing caught up with me about 20

miles out, but I walked the full 25 miles

to Britts cabin, without sitting down or

resting in 7 hours. Beautiful day –

warm – about 25 above zero – and I

was too warm and wore no outer covering

but vest and light sweater. Ft Yukon

tomorrow – We met “Billy” Leake and

two other men last night at Julius. They

are on their way to Nome and left down the

river early-

Mch. 20th Left Britts at 5.30 and took

lunch at “12 mile” island and reached

Ft. Yukon at 4 oclock – 35 miles.

Was the guest of Mr. Montifield, agent

of it. A. T. G. Appointed Mountifield

a Notary Public and delivered him a

commission - recd. $10.00 affo Lauchran

McDonald took out his first papers $1.50

Mch. 21. Wooden, the Episcopal

[page break]

minister at Ft. Yukon made complaint

against Beaumont and a woman

by the name of Bertha for unlawful

cohabitation. We left Ft. Yukon late

ate our lunch at roadhouse where

Arctic Circle crosses the Yukon, 14 miles

south of Ft. Yukon – and reached the

“Halfway Island” at 7 oclock.

We will reach Circle City tomorrow.

Mch. 22nd We met many sleds yes

=terday and today on the way into the

Koyukuk – among them a party

from Geological Survey going into

that country – but mostly miners. Ate

dinner at “20 Mile Point” and ran

into Circle City for supper at Edgars.

There is so much work to be looked

after here that I find I must remain

over one day. Downing will go

on but we have arranged the

runs so as to overtake him.

[page break]

Mch. 23rd Removed Claypool as

Commissioner at Circle and appointed

Mr. James Stuart. I do this at Claypools

suggestion on account of his enforced

absence in the “States” for some months.

Will reappoint him when he returns.

Suit begun by A. C. Co. vs Raymond

& issued warrant for absconding debtor.

{$10.00 paid to me for Clerk.}

Warrant by Judge Stuart against

Beaumont & Bertha for unlawful

cohabitation. Signed judgment in

N.A.T. v. Bartlett. Took dinner

with “Edgar’s Lizzie”, as Howard calls

her, and Mrs. Carr. Good letter from

Debbie –

Mch 24th Left Circle early &

we reached Webbers at dark –

40 miles, and bring two stages

on our journey down the river –

Weber is a crank – Fine day –

and good trail.

[page break]

Mch 25th. Today we traveled

from Webbers to the Washington

Creek road house – 44 miles &

6 miles more than two stages in

going down the river. We passed

two sleds with horses and

several with dogs going to the

“diggings”. We passed Downing

this evening 6 miles below here

at his Charley Creek cabin. He

will come along in the morning

& go with us to Eagle.

Mch. 26th I left Washington Creek

road house at 6 oclock, and the teams

came on an hour later. We took lunch

at Charley riv {Nation River:} Clark and Pennoyer

report rich diggings on Fourth of July Creek,

and Clark exhibited a glass jar with 50.oz.

or $1000. in f coarse gold dust which came

from there. Reached Montauk for the

[page break]

night, - distance 34 miles.

Mch. 27th Left Montauk early and

ate dinner at Star City – bought a

handsome Navajo Indian blanket

from Mrs. Mathews – reached Eagle

City at 3 oclock – distance 36 miles

- 4 days from Circle City – average

43 miles per day – 6 days from Ft.

Yukon. We reached Eagle with Downing

the long legged mail man, having traveled

with him from Rampert Ft. Hamlin. We were

22 days in going from Eagle to Rampart

- less one day not traveled & two half days

= full traveling time 20 days – distance

520 miles – average, 26 miles per day.

Returning 17 days – one day spent on

“Nunivak” and one at Circle left

15 days – distance 520 miles = average

34 miles per day. Read my mail –

but cannot begin work before tomorrow.

So glad to get home – all well.

[page break]

Mch. 28th I made a full settlement

with Ed. Crouch & paid him the balance

due for services in transporting me to

Rampart & back. = $505 – or $705.

in all & took his receipts in full.

These I must send to Washington, D.C.

& trust to luck to be reimbursed.

Recd. letter from Atty. Genl. directing

me to hold special term of court at

Unalaska – Dutch Harbor – in Judge

Noyes district, providing he makes

no objection. Wrote Judge Noyes

about it today – also to Atty. Genl.

Recd. letters from Senator Foster & Cong. Cushman

Also copy of Governor Rogers Inaugural

address in which he pays me a compliment

for services in State v. Rogers. Court

house is getting on fine – good letters

from Darrell – he stands 6 in Math.

for the term – a splendid place and

one highly gratifying to us.

[page break]

Mch. 30th Made out my personal expense

accounts against the government in com

=pliance with letter of the Attorney General.

Repaid Marshal Perry $256.40 which

he formerly paid me on expenses &

sent in accounts from the date of my

appointment to the present in the sum

of $1279.15.

[April 1901]

April 1st Wrote Atty Genl about the

reports of Claypool and Sawyer, returned

on account of minimum charge of $2.50

for recording. Charley Taylor came

in today – came down from Dawson to

get some affidavits – goes back tomorrow.

Wrote to mother: working at home.

April 2nd Working on Court Rules

& reading “The Christian”.

April 3rd Finished Court Rules,

made order adopting them to be in

force July 1st & forwarded copies

[page break]

to the Attorney General and to

the Clerk U.S. Circuit Court of

Appeals, 9th Circuit, San Francisco.

April 6th Mr. D. A. McKenzie, who

resides at Coldfoot, on the Koyukuk

river, came into Eagle yesterday from

Seattle. Have many letters urging his

appointment as Commissioner and

have this day appointed him, and created

the Koyukuk Precinct, with his

official residence at Coldfoot,

at the mouth of Slate Creek. Mr.

Schrader, geologist and the leader

of the U.S. surveying expedition into

the Koyukuk is here: he and McKenzie

take dinner with us at the “Cabin”.

April 8th Mr. John T. Reed, first assistant

clerk of Judge Noyes court at Nome is in

town: he says Judge Noyes is overwhelmed with

work – 600 cases on the docket, - and that

he desires me to come & assist him next

[page break]

winter. He is on his way to N.Y. to visit

his people. Judge Noyes also suggests

exchanging with Judge Brown so that

he could have time from Juneau to go home.

Have agreed with Harry B. Alldis to

go into contract with him on #28 and 29

above Discovery on Mission Creek. He

goes tomorrow to complete the filing

on 29, & Mrs. Wickersham has hereto

=fore filed on 28.

April 9th – Appointed B. D. Mills, Jury Commissioner

& ordered notices of Court for July 1st 1901. –

April 11. Mail from outside: recd

copy of opinion in Bird v. Winyer

arising on Puyallup Indian reservation

We won case in Supreme Ct. Washington.

Darrells letter & report recd: he is

doing splendidly & seems reconciled.

April 12th Trial of Walsh v. Ford:

This case discloses that Eagle townsite

is to be disposed of as abandoned military reser

=vation!!

[page break]

April 15th Decided Walsh v. Ford in

favor of defendant: it appears that in

placing the 400 acres of Eagle townsite

under land department control the President

ordered it disposed of under Act of Congress

of July 5th 1884; effect if valid: it will be

disposed of only to those who were on lots

prior to reservation in July 13, 1889 &

to the highest bidders for cash upon survey

Appraisal and Sale! As the people of

Eagle have raised a large sum for surveys

&c. under the Townsite Act, this must be

somewhat of a disappointment & it

comes from their attorneys not taking

the Execution Order as part of their title.

April 18th Howard sick yesterday

& today: Dr. Truholtz came – fever.

Filed my location notice for Mining Claim

No. 4, below Lower Discovery on

Heu{e}me (Wynema) Creek, near Fourth

of July Creek. Pennoyer thinks it

[page break]

is a good claim. Also ordered from

N.A.T. Co. for use by Harry Alldis

$95.00 worth of supplies for use of

Aldis in prospecting Nos. 28 and 29. above

discovery on Mission Creek. Made

contract with Alldis by which he & Mrs.

W_ become owners, undivided, of

both 28 & 29. We furnish provisions

Alldis does work: Paid for recording

Alldis contract, location on #29 & location

of No. 4, below Lower Discovery on Heueme

the sum of $5.00 to recorder.

April 22nd Heilig, clerk, and

Perry, marshal, moved into their rooms

in our new court house. Building

will not be finished for two weeks yet

but their rooms were specially furnished

on account of possible rain which

would spoil their books & papers in the

old cabin now occupied. Mail in

from down the river: Letter from Judge

[page break]

Balliet in which he says that he

has no further confidence in Gehmle

{Dep} Marshal at Rampart, - thinks he was

“fixed” by saloon men on trial: Told

Perry, after he informed me that he

had received letter from Gehmle saying

that he could not get along with Balliet,

and asking for removal to Circle or

Eagle. Await further facts.

April. 25th Mail in today from the

outerworld. Recd. 3 letters from Darrell.

He has fallen down on Mathematics for

March, but came up well in English.

Will go on summer cruise on “Chesapeake”.

Torrance, mining expert, &c. with his

men came in today for work on Mission

and other creeks. Reynoldson, Dept.

Marshal, came back from Forty Mile,

“Jack Wade” where he went to serve

subpoenas for jurors. Recd. voucher

for my June, 1900, back salary.

[page break]

- did not receive it before as there was no

appropriation out of which it could

be paid. Sent out $6.00 to pay cem

=etery tax for year. Also wrote to

mother & send her four pictures of

the interior of our cabin.

April 29th Wrote to Judges Noyes

and Brown today offering to enlarge

my district so as to include the Copper

river country and the Aleutian Islands,

and thereby relieve both their courts to that

extent. Wrote Atty General about it &

sent him copies of both letters also a

map, - Sent Senator Foster copies of

all their letters. Ducks & geese

in plenty flying today – Spring.

[May 1901]

May 10th 1901. Court house finished

today and Howard raised the flag – the

most northern flag on an American

courthouse! Have been spending

[page break]

my time for two weeks and more

in examining the papers, studying the cases

which will come up for trial July term.

Going duck hunting with Mr. Johansen

& Cramer tomorrow. F

May 11th First robin singing this morning

Inspection drill at Post.

May 14th Came back from duck hunt today

- We walked up Yukon shore to lakes about

8 miles & camped in Walshs wood cabin

near south end of largest lake – only the smallest

and most southern lake was open – all others

frozen up solid. We hunted Saturday night

& Sunday & Monday – Killed 20 ducks before I

came in. Left Johansen & Cramer there,

and am to send some one back with horse for

packs, ducks, &c on 16th.

May 15th Heard motion to vacate warrant

of arrest in civil action in A.C. Co. v. Raymond

denied motion after full argument: This

is the second hearing of this same motion

[page break]

May 15th 1901.

Ice in the river began to move out from

front of Eagle today at 2:30 p.m.

A guessing contest at N.A.T. Co. store

resulted in guesses for every day from the

5th to 21st of May. I guessed this

day – 15th at 1 oclock. Another party

guessed this day at 3 oclock, and

the first general movement began at

2:30, so I lost and Jim Dubois won.

This great event also makes us all

“Sour Doughs”

as all Yukoners are called who

have seen the ice go out in the spring.

May 17th Ice ran out yesterday & day before

for 9 miles up river & then river fell & we

heard by telegraph that a great jam had

formed at Forty Mile: This afternoon

it began to come down – it broke about

noon at Forty Mile, and tonight the river

is rising rapidly & is filled from shore to

[page break]

shore: A jam formed here yesterday

at Eagle Rock for an hour or so, but

soon went out. This afternoon a

big water spaniel “Major” sprang

into the river, and could not again reach

shore for the masses of ice. The last we

saw of him he was on a cake of ice in

the middle of the river, about two miles

below town. River rising rapidly.

May 18th. River continued to rise

until about one oclock last night from

which time, as the mass of Forty Mile jam

had passed it fell. This morning it

looked like river of crushed ice and

snow moving rapidly onward, - little

water to be seen, but at noon the ice

is past and the river nearly clear but

high. Tonight the river has fallen about

10 feet or more – leaving high wall of ice

on each bank. “Major” the dog who sailed

away on a cake of ice returned home at midnight.

[page break]

May 21st After the flood tide which

carried the ice jam out, of the 18th the river

fell leaving ice walls 12 or more feet

high on each shore. During the

last 24 hours, however, it has been rising

and now flows high: During today a

scow and their small boats reached

here from Dawson: they brought news

about the flood at Forty Mile, which

seems to have been unprecedented and

disastrous. The town was almost

destroyed on the 18th – or possibly 17th

by the ice and high water resulting

from a jam in the river. The houses

and stores were flooded and torn

to peices and the stock in the A.C &

N.A.T. stores ruined – loss heavy

but luckily no lives lost, although

many narrow escapes. We are not

expecting steamboats from Dawson – no

mail there yet – owing to a jam

[page break]

at Five Finger Rapids.

While Clerk, Marshal, Recorder

& my stenographer have been in the new

courthouse for some days, I only moved

in today. Library in – desk tomorrow.

Scow from Dawson loaded with potatoes

onions &c: had a supper of same

tonight = 25¢ per lb. Scow went

on down the river tonight – to Circle.

May 23rd Valdez mail came in: 3

letters from Darrell & bundles of clippings

from newspapers & one newspaper.

No mail from up river for over a month.

May 24th Denied temporary restraining

order in N.A.T. Co. v. Gardner. Trial

of Thomas A. Wilson, insane: order that

he be deported to and confined in Oregon

State Asylum for Insane. Several

small boats & scows down river, but

no steamer or mail: Learn that steamer

& mail will come tomorrow.

[page break]

May 25th – Local mail from Dawson

this morning. Days last Valdez mail

contained outside Skagway mail of

1st & 15th mail may come down river

on steamer. River still rising rapidly.

May 26th 1901. Sunday.

Yesterday Ora Lomax came down from

Dawson in a small boat with the information

that the “Clifford Sifton” would follow in the

evening with 50 or 60 members of the “Arctic

Brotherhood” with a view to establish a lodge

of that order in Eagle. Heard Mr. French

and Lt. Cragie are the only members here

and they requested the use of the new court

room, which I granted, as a lodge room.

This day is the birthday of both Lt. Cragie

and Lt. Erickson: they gave a birth day dinner

present. Hosts: Capt. & Mrs Farnsworth, Lt.

Tillinans[?] and Miss Florence Heilig, Mr. & Mrs.

Heilig, Mr & Mrs. U. G. Myers, Mr & Mrs Kirk

the Presbyterian minister: Dr. & Mrs. Truholtz

[page break]

(Dr. Truholtz is acting Asst. Surgeon, U.S.A.

Ft. Egbert). Mrs. French, & Mrs. VanHook: Miss

Thompson and Cora, & Mrs Wickersham & I.

We had a royal good dinner & plenty of

good cheer: music &c. During dinner

received telegram from Forty Mile, saying that

Mr & Mrs Orr are on Clifford Sifton & that

the boat would arrive at 11.30.p.m. After

May supper (or dinner rather) went to the

courthouse & waited for boat; at 11:30 it

arrived, the first steamer for 6 months

to appear at our levee; the Tacoma crowd

was surprisingly large: Mr & Mrs Orr and

son: Richard Roediger, Ed. “Dawson News”:

R. J. Davis, Charles E. Taylor, C. B. Zabreska[?]

Mrs. Lockwood, Mr & Mrs. Crawford.

We took them in & gave them lunch & did

best we could to entertain them. About

3 oclock, Mrs. W & Mrs. Orr went to bed &

Orr, Davis & I, made a bed on the floor with

robes & slept until 7 oclock. They rema

[page break]

until 9 oclock this morning when

they took the “Clifford Sifton” for return

trip. They brought us papers & magazines

& were pleased with our town. Mrs. Orr

& Captain Farnsworth are old schoolmates

& seemed delighted to meet again in this

far away country.

The “Clifford Sifton” brought the outside

mail of the 15th bringing our mails up to

date: it was not opened until after

the steamer returned: Very happy letter

from Darrell: he seems to be regaining his

courage, has gained greatly in his standing

and is going on summer cruise on the

“Chesapeake” and “Indiana” north to

Maine and New Brunswick. Received

leave of absence after July term of court

from Atty. General, for 30 days to visit Tacoma

also intimation that the leave would be with

drawn if public exigency demands my presence

in Alaska. I also received letter from J. G.

[page break]

Heid, Juneau, Alaska, saying that

he had it on good authority that I was

soon to be directed to go to Nome

to hold court: Roediger told me

that dispatches just received as he

left Dawson stated that Judge Noyes

was to be cited before U.S. Circuit Court of

Appeals, S. F. for contempt, in McKenzie

matter, - it may be that Atty. Genl. means

to send me there, - Nome to hold court. Well

it is satisfactory to me, but now for many

reasons I prefer to remain in Eagle City.

May 28th Steamers “Rock Islander” &

“Gold Star” passed down the river this morning.

River has been rising steadily ever since the

ice went out.

May 30th Decoration Day.

Delivered the Addess today – Services

held in court room: Singing, prayer

Kirk, recitation by Miss Thompson, &

Address – Decoration graves at 1:30

[page break]

[typewritten program:]

“DECORATION DAY EXERCISE

Eagle, Alaska May 30, 1901.

Court House Square.

10:30 A.M.

Programme.

1. Singing Male Quartet.

2. Prayer Rev. James Wollaston Kirk.

3. Recitation Miss L. J. Thompson.

(The Blue and the Gray)

4. Singing Male Quartet.

5. Address Hon. James Wickersham.

6. Singing Male Quartet, leading.

(America)

7. Firing Salute Company E., U.S.I.

8. Taps Bugler, Co. E.

All places of business are kindly requested to close at

10 o’clock A.M.and all citizens are urged to make the day a

holiday.

[signature] U. G. Myers

Mayor of Eagle.”

[page break]

[June 1901]

May 6th [June 6th] Steamer Louise with three

barges came down river this afternoon for

St. Micheal – no mail.

May 7th [June 7th] Snow storm for an hour

this morning, - and rain. Working for

two days on opinion as to whether pros

=ecutions for crime may be begun by

criminal information – held that they

are good in cases of misdemeanor

U.S. v. Powers and Robertson.

May 11. [June 11] “Leon” arrived from Dawson on her

way to St. Micheal, - no mail. Met Mr

Mendanhall of U.S. Geol. Survey, who is going

via Dall river, across Koyukuk country & thence

to and down Kowak. Decided yesterday

- made order today – that Powers & Robertsons license

be transferred to waterfront – first saloon there.

May 12 [June 12]. “Robert Kerr” arrived this morning from

Dawson – no mail. Reports mail will be in Dawson

last night or this morning. Telegram from Mrs.

Reynoldson from Whitehorse – will be here abou

[page break]

Sunday. Nothing yet from Judge Post, who

has neither written to me nor to any one else

since last fall. Am pretty much out of patience

over failure to be here – he has been badly needed

- officially – and I will certainly protest vigorously

if he is absent much longer, or another winter.

Mail in this forenoon from Circle – for Valdez-

all wet from overturning in river.

May 13th The Str. “Tyrell” this morning

with mail. Letters from Darrell – O.K!

Also clipping from S. F. “Call” sent me by

“Quarre – saying that Judge Noyes has

been cited to appear before the Circuit Court

of Appeals at S. F. for contempt in relation

to the difficulties at Nome, and that I had

been directed by the President to go to Nome

in his place – temporarily at least. If

such action has been taken it is unpre

-cedented – the whole matter to date is that!

President McKinley consulted with the

Judges of the Circuit Court of Appeals at

[page break]

S. F. while there in May, and upon the showing of

ill health of McKenzie. Judge Noyes receiver, and

that he had a paid up the $10,000 alleged shortage,

{and his earnest apology to the Court,}

commuted his sentence and he was discharged.

McKenzies attorney, Judge Dubose, however,

has also been sentenced to six months in the

Alemeda Co. Jail, and Judge Noyes and Geary

another attorney cited. The “Call” says that

Noyes has been suspended pending his trial

and that I have been appointed – or directed

to take his place. I cannot help but feel

a deep sympathy for Judge Noyes, for I am

sure he is more sinned against than sinning

Received a copy of printed rules from Judge

Browns court at Juneau, and in spite of

my modesty I am quite sure that those which

I have prepared and forwarded to the Attorney

General are much more complete.

Dinner party tonight to Capt & Mrs. Farnsworth,

Mr. & Mrs. U. G. Myers, Robert Farnsworth

Howard, Mrs. W_ and myself -

[page break]

June 16 Steamer [ ?ion] down

from Dawson. Mrs. Capt. Wright on board

bound for Ft. Gibbon. Mrs. Reynoldson & son

(Depty. Marshals wife) from Dubuque, Iowa

arrived; Reynoldson at Rampart after

prisoners. Am all ready to go hunting

mountain sheep. George Jeffery is going

with me. Torrance takes our packs

on his mules as far as Colorado Creek,

we then go on up Mission to No. 28.

where Harry Alldis is working our claims

& from that point George Dribelbis tells

me it is less than half a days walk

to the summits and sheep pastures.

Reports all confirm Noyes suspension

and my transfer to Nome, - well I

must hunt and play now, for that means

very hard, - hard work, but I am

ready and prepared for it.

Left Eagle at 3 oclock afoot and reached

Torrances mining camp at 6:00 for supper

[page break]

He is doing placer mining at the mouth of Colo

=rado creek, - employs several men and is

making quite a show with the water from the creek.

Torrance and his packer reached camp late

with packs and mules: 12 miles to Colorado

- swamps and no roads: crossed American

& wolf creeks – waded and got very wet.

{June} 17th

My bedfellows last night were George

Jeffery and “Bill Blankinship” – an old

time plainsman, miner and cowboy.

“Bill” went west in 1865 – was a Union soldier

- hunted buffalo, ran a Montana cattle ranch,

became well off, put it all in a sure thing

Butte. mine – the pay streak pinched out

- and “Bill” has tramped from Montana to

the mouth of the Mackenzie river looking for

it in vain. He is an exact image of

[page break]

Nelson Bennett, of Tacoma. Bradley, the

packer, who is at Colorado creek hunting

bear is going with us – Torrance offered us a

pack mule, which we accepted. We left the

mine early with our caravan, went up the south

side of Mission a mile, thence climbed to the

summit and keeping along the top reached

a point opposite Harry Aldis claim near

the head of Mission late in the evening. Staid

all night at Harrys house – he left for

town before bed time.

18th

Left Aldis claim early and went up Mission

creek to the “Cariboo Camp” of last fall. On the

way we passed Shorts cabin – Aldis killed

a fine buck cariboo on the mountain a few days

ago, and the fine new horns, half grown and

in the velvet lay at Shorts. They are beauties!

At Cariboo camp we found a large canvas

tent cover, a platter, knife, two carrying

bags, a cup and some oats, all of wh[ich]

[page break]

belong to the government. We took them

intending to turn them in at the post on our

return. Had dinner at Cariboo camp – then

crossed westward, climbed to the summit of

Mt. Wolcott, at head of Mission Creek –

height of Wolcott 5,500 feet, and thence

set out northwestward across the valleys

and mountains towards Glacier Mountain

- Mt. Eldredge. Saw a small species

of marmot on Mt. Wolcott, - striped,

and about the size of a small squirrel.

Crossed head of Bear creek, and down

into head waters of Comet, both tributaries

to Forty Mile river. We reached the valley

at the foot of Crater basin, in Comet Creek

valley, and camped at 12 oclock mid

night. Glacier mountain seems at

some time to have deserved that name

for Comet creek valley is crossed by a

large terminal moraine, while

[page break]

smaller lateral moraine lies close along its

east side down to the terminal: morainic

deposits have made several small lakes

on a second terrace, and altogether it

is, to me, an interesting spot.

{June} 19th

Were very tired this morning but rather

late George and I started out to explore

Crater basin, whose mouth opened a

quarter of a mile above our camp.

Found it completely walled, except at

outlet by such perpendicular granite

walls that nothing but a goat or sheep

could get out. Walls from thousand feet

at mouth to 800 feet at head of valley:

valley two and a half miles long – half

mile wide. A beautiful place, filled

with flowers, streams, grass lands, and

on sheltered spots with some snow banks

No game, - many trails – found a beautiful

pair of cariboo horns – shed this spring

[page break]

20th

Today we concluded to try the summits around

Mt Eldrege for sheep. – George and I climbed

the south-eastern point and thence to the summits.

We passed the whole day along the sharp

comb of the mountains, passed over the

summit of Eldrege, stood by the cairn

built for triangulation by the Geological

Survey, but concluded that that was not

the highest point. Passed over a difficult

and dangerous place and reached a high

sharp ridge, where we built a cairn of

of our own. It rained, hailed and thundered

terrifically while we were there. A splendid

prospect lay in all directions from

this overtowering perch. We could trace

the Yukon for fifty miles or more, while

Eagle was in plain view. Found our

[page break]

way down into the Crater basin from

this summit over a long, steep slide of

granite boulders, into Crater basin and out

that way to camp – no sign – no fresh

signs of sheep on these summits. We now

conclude that they must be on the lower

meadows with lambs.

21st

While at breakfast this morning Bradly

suddenly stopped and said “Why there is a

sheep” – pointing toward the point of the

mountain up which George and I climbed

yesterday. With my opera glasses I

saw plainly that it was a young buck.

By virtue of seeing it first Bradley climbed

the big mountain and reached the summit way

above and behind it: after seeing him

to the top I left camp and went out on the

side hill in front of the place where the sheep

lay resting in the sun. He saw me at once

[page break]

and began to watch my movements closely.

I kept in plain sight, moved along leisurely

gradually rounding the hill and approaching

nearer to his resting place. He arose and

climbed a hundred feet or so higher and

lay down on a point where he could more

easily keep his eye on me. All this time

Bradly was slipping down upon him

from above guided by my motions and

signs. He reached a ledge just above

the sheep, and shot him, while yet

watching me, and entirely unsuspicious

that Bradly was above him or even on the

mountain. After hearing Bradley shoot

I struck out alone across the granite bluffs

between Seward and Utah creeks, and

hunted all day. It had been agreed that camp

should be moved way over on Seward and

about noon or after I saw Bradley & Geor[ge]

[page break]

leading the mule over the mountains in that

direction. About 6 oclock in the evening

as I was slowly making my way down

towards Seward creek, looking for smoke

or other sign of camp, I saw what at

first appeared to be snow on the very top

of a high limestone ridge across on the

north side of Seward creek. Time after

time I examined the spots with my eye and

opera glasses – after while, while gazing

intently through the opera glasses at the

white and distant spots, I distinctly

saw one push the other with his head! and

I knew it was a sheep and not snow spots.

I climbed down the mountain side, crossed Seward

creek on great ice cakes, remnants of last

winters glacier, and then after much labor,

reached the mountain summit behind and above

the sheep. I had watched them carefully to

see that they were feeding slowly down

[page break]

toward some limestone pinnacles above

Seward creek: so when I got above them I

came down upon these rocks. From the

summit of a great flat limestone pinnacle

I looked down upon a fine flock of wild

sheep – but to my great disappointment

it consisted only of ewes and lambs –

last years lambs and this springs flock.

I shot two – a yearling buck and a

buck lamb, and then four shots a a

large ewe with good fair horns – when

to my surprise I found myself out of

cartridges! The ewe escaped although

wounded. I cleaned the two bucks and

after much trouble got them down to the

creek where I packed ice over them.

These limestone cliffs are honeycombed

with caverns and holes : sheep trails lead

to them, and from the deep cut trails, the

[page break]

smell and other signs I judge that here

is the old homestead for the wild sheep of

this locality. At this season the old

bucks, the fellows with big horns are not

with the ewes and lambs, but lead a

solitary life along the high ridges. I

killed my sheep at 9 oclock – just before

I shot I heard George shooting his

gun – thinking I was lost he was

out on a slope to the south of me

signalling the location of the camp.

Before I shot the sheep I dared not

give an answering shot for fear of

frightening them, afterward I could not

for I had used my last cartridges.

Leaving the sheep standing all around

me – only 100 yards way, I started out

- up stream to hunt camp. Soon

saw the smoke, but owing to the deep

moss, dense brush and rocks it was

[page break]

11 oclock when I stumbled, tired and

footsore, into the tent, but happy with having

killed two more small but fine bucks.

-22nd-

This morning we saw sheep on the summits

above us. Bradly went up but did not succeed

in getting one. George and I undertook

to get the mule up the rocky mountain side

north of Seward creek: he stepped between

two granite rocks, fell over and hurt

his left hind ankle. We reloaded him

and finally reach the summit. With Bradly

we went down the mountain and carried

my two small bucks to the top, loaded

the mule and started homeward. All

went well enough until within four or five

miles of Torrances, when Bradly left the

right trail and got entangled in the swamp

and canyons on Excelsior Creek. Here he

hurt the mules leg worse – so badly that it

was – or seemed to be, out of joint at the

[page break]

ankle. We finally left him, after unpacking

about half a mile from Mission Creek &

about a mile from Torrances camp.

Having on high rubber boots, and finding

a place where Mission creek divided

Bradley waded across – not without difficulty

and danger, while I kept along up the

bank to a point opposite Torrances.

I called and they came down opposite

to me, threw me a rope and gave me

instructions to wade up stream toward

the lower end of their wing[?] dam. I tied

the rope tight around my body under my

arms, strapped my gun on, and loaded

with a pair of cariboo horns, and all my

hunting outfit boldly waded into the raging

mountain stream, swollen high with ice

cold water from the summits. Three men on

the opposite bank pulled the rope, and I

got along nicely until just below the wing

dam. I stepped into a deep cut, and over

[page break]

I went. The rope pulled from above, the

great weight of the torrent pressing me

down, the gun, horns &c. all prevented

me from assisting myself in the slightest

and over and over I went until the

miners finally landed me on shore by

the strength of the line. A good drink

of whisky, a dry suit, and in a few

minutes I was eating a hearty supper.

Later at night Bradly and Torrance

went out and got the mule and packs.

-23rd-

I had bought Bradleys interest in the

first sheep we killed, and gave Torrance

¾ of it. The mule still being too lame

to go on to Eagle I went in alone: and

soon had a good bath and clean clothes.

-24-

George and Bradly came in at 5 oclock

this morning with the sheep. Ed. Crouch

Jessen came and cut it up for me & we

[page break]

immediately “potlatched”, or gave away

about all of it. Sent steaks, roasts

&c. to nearly every body in town.

-26th-

Steamer “Susie” going down the river.

Had a pleasant call from Sam. C. Dunham

Mr. Wilson, late of A.C. Co: Miller, late

of Tacoma police force: Mr. Maloy U.S.

Stamp department (war revenue): Mr &

Mrs VanHook leave for down river: Mr.

Emelie Quarre arrives to remain.

Mr. Sloss, of A.C. Co. with Messrs. Wash

=burn and Menzies reached here yesterday

with Mr. Stone whom they duly installed

as agent of the new N.C. Co. at this place.

Met all parties, am pleased with Stone.

[July 1901]

July 1st 1901.

First day of regular July term.

Judge Post, U.S. Dist. Atty. not here

and have had no word from him since

last September: his end of the

[page break]

court business in Alask has been

badly neglected. His assistant

Geo. K. French. is down at Rampart,

so there is no one here to attend to the

Grand Jury which is called for today.

Write Attorney General fully about it.

Dismissed case of U.S. v. McConnell &

Gilpin, and ordered bond returned to

Mrs. McConnell who put it up: Ordered

a special venire to fill up Grand Jury

- but as yet there is no boat up the river.

No prisoners, witnesses or litigants from

either Rampart or Circle: French is

yet there, and we can do nothing until

he and Reynoldson get back: Last

year the first boat up river reached

Eagle on Fourth of July: it may be later

this year owing to the season being later.

Its bad, and expensive, but the govt.

must stand it: Jury ought to have been

called for July 15th and not sooner!

[page break]

July 2nd

Grand jury empanelled and sworn,

gave them instructions and appointed

Mr. E. J. Chamberlain, foreman. Heard

argument notion in N.A.T. Co. v. Gardner.

“ 3rd

Grand jury returned “not a true bill”

{U.S. v. Neeley.}, were

engaged yesterday and today in examining

courthouse jail, and official books.

There is but little business ready, and will

be nothing to do until the boat comes in with

French, U.S. Asst. Dist. Atty. Reynoldson,

Dept. Marshal with prisoners, witnesses,

&c. from Rampart and Circle – Dont

know when this arrival will reach us.

Tomorrow is the glorious 4th, a holiday

and there will be no court. Things are in

a bad shape owing to failure of boats to

get up the river! it will probably detain

me two weeks or so in getting down to Unalaska

or Nome – if ordered then to hold court.

[page break]

3rd continued

Son born to Joe, Crook, Agt. A.C. Co.

last night - 8 ½ lbs. mother doing well.

On July 1st as Orin Merriman and

companion were poling boat up the Yukon,

and about 15 mi above Eagle, it overturned

and Orin was drowned. He is a young man

and cousin to Agt. N.A.T. Co.

July 4th

Fire crackers, national salute of artillery

at Ft. Egbert, base ball, races, &c. &c. and

ball at barracks in evening.

July 5th

Outside mail gets in: Darrell is on

his annual cruise, first on “Chesapeake”

and then on “Indiana” No information

whatever about the rumor that I am to be

transferred to Nome. Received amended

fee bill for recorders – it is satisfactory

and will add much to the stability of the

Commissioners office. Recd salary

[page break]

voucher for April, $412.10. and for

bal. on June 1900. $274.73. This leaves

due me for months of March, May & June.

Indictments returned against Gay &

Mrs. Woodcock: illicit cohabitation.

Arraigned – bail $500 each

-7th-

The court business for the week has been

nearly nothing on account of the absence of

Dist. Atty. and failure of boat to come up the

river with prisoners, litigants and witnesses from

Rampart and Circle.

-8th-

Telegram from Dawson that Bain arrested

& will be sent down to boundary line: also

telegram from Claypool that he will be down

{fine $100.00}

on next boat. Powns & Robertson plead guilty.

-9th-

Case of Koegle v Alaska Co-op. Min Co. tried

before court, verdict for plaintiff about $770

[page break]

-10th

Madden, from Dawson came into Eagle

this morning with three friends, on gasoline

launch, en route to Nome. Called, says he

left Nome in May, went to Sound and is now

on way back. Says Nome country is solid -

mining interests great and promises to be a

permanent camp. Jury in case of

N.A.T. v. Gardner, et. al. find for Plaintiff.

-11th-

Dep. U.S. Marshals met N.W.M.P at

the boundary line last evening at the

Canadians delivered Bain, and he is now

in jail here. North West Mounted Police

came on down & will wait for first boat

back up river. U.S. Marshall assists

them in every way practicable to catch

escaping criminals on this side of line.

-12th-

A small boat came down from Dawson

this morning bringing Seattle papers of

[page break]

July 3rd from which we learn that the

Nome steamers just arriving in Seattle

report that on June 20-22 the ice yet

remained solid about St Micheal &

that steamers could not get within 35 mi

of that place. From this information I

conclude that the river steamers will be

correspondingly late in getting away to

return up the river, and that the first one

may yet be a week or more in reaching this

place. The grand jury is finished and

can do no more until the arrival of the

prisoners, marshals & others from Rampart

and Circle: I have therefore excused

such of the grand jurors as find that

they cannot longer neglect their private

business, and will only hold the balance

- will fill up the jury when we need to.

Trial jury was excused from appearance

for trials until Monday, at which time

I think we can begin to keep them busy.

[page break]

-13th-

Yesterday evening Torrance told me

that he would soon probably want claims

on Wolf Creek, and advised me to file there.

This morning I sent out Jeffry and Ed.

Crouch to locate claims for themselves &

Jessen, Fred, Debbie and Darrell, with

an agreement to put them into a pool &

divide the proceeds if any. Opened

court, called juries &c and adjourned

until Monday, when criminal trials

will begin.

-14th-

The “John C. Barr” came down from

Dawson this morning, on her way to St. Mich

-eal, and Charles E. Claypool, wife, 2 chil

=dren and Mr. Tod. Cowles, arrived and

will remain here during the balance of

court time. Also, and much to my

surprise, Mr. V. L. Harlan, wife and

son arrived: He was appointed U.S.

[page break]

District Attorney, June 22, in

place of Judge Post, resigned, and

left his home at York, Nebraska,

on July 4th in the afternoon – not quite

10 days ago. I am pleased with his

appearance and think that he will do

very much better than Post, for his health

is good – he is over 6 feet tall, strong

and vigorous – about 50 years old.

Assisted Claypools into Johansons

house – Harlans took possession of

Frenchs cabin. Hope things will go

better now with a good district Attorney.

-15th-

Harlan, Dist. Atty. sworn into office:

Case of U.S. v. Gay, illicit cohabitation,

tried: verdict not guilty. Mr. Tod,

Cowles admitted to the bar. Case of U.S. v.

Gay is another evidence of the leniency

with which juries view the promiscuous relations

of persons of different sexes in this country.

[page break]

-15th continued-

The proof was ample and clear that they

had resided together after the manner of

husband and wife for two years, yet the

jury found no evidence to convict – because

no one saw an actual copulation.

-16th-

Case of U.S. v. Woodcock – against Mrs. Wood

-cock. Gays mistress, dismissed as it is

a waste of time to prosecute her if he could

not be convicted. No more business until

the boat arrives from down river. Called

to the attention of Dist. Atty. Harlan, in the

most particular manner violation of the law

by the N.A.T. & T. Co. in failing and refusing

to file its articles of incorporation & authority of

attorney: also failure of business houses to

pay license fees promptly.

-19th-

The “Lorelei”, a small steamer came

down from Dawson this morning with

[page break]

the mail, and after remaining until noon

returned with passengers. I received a

telegram by mail from Seattle sent to me

on July 2nd by Dist. Atty. Harlan – who

arrived here in person and with his family

on the 14th! - five days ahead of his

telegram – also letter today from him dated

July 1st! Good letter from Darrell but

no official mail whatever. No boat from

down the river yet: Court at a stand

still until the boat does come: but today

I overruled defendants motion in U.S. vs.

Puckett, et. al. for continuance & set the

case for trial tomorrow morning.

-20-

Trial U.S. v. Sam Puckett, Ole Anderson

and Walter B. Allen, for assault & battery,

verdict guilty: Fine $200. each. = $600.00

Allen is son of Lawyer Allen of Seattle – he

is too smart & brought on trouble thereby.

[page break]

-21st-

And no boat up the river yet!

-24th-

Steamboat!! “Susie.”

The long looked for steamer up the

river reached Eagle this morning at

1:30 and was met by the whole town.

Reynoldson, Sawyer, prisoners, witness

=es & parties from Rampart, Ft. Yukon

and Circle reached here: French also

with cases worked up. Mail. 2nd

class by the wagon load!

Capt. & Mrs. Farnsworth, Mrs.

Heilig and daughter Florence, and

Lt. Cragie went up river on the

“Susie”, - the Capt. bound for Ft. Vancouver

Cragie for the Phillipines & Mrs Heilig

& Florence for Tacoma.

Panel of Grand Jury filled and

set to work. Indictment against Carolan

who was arraigned. Trial Saturday 27th.

[page break]

Heard case of Est. of Evan Williams.

-25th-

Full settlement this morning with

Prescott lawyer: paid him $400.00

in full of all I owe him: also full

settlement and payment of G.G. Perry.

I owe neither of them a cent – nor

do I owe any one in Alaska.

-27 [previous word struck through] 26th-

U.S. v. Beaumont, trial and

conviction: verdict guilty of

Adultery. There was what seemed to

me in this case a current of bribery

and perjury. – Kellum his lawyer

used vile language in his argument

and Mr. Harlan gave such a

“hiding” as a man seldom gets in

court.

-27th-

Case of U.S. v. Dan Carolan on

trial – jury impanelled & prosecution

[page break]

put its case. It was a

case of murder in first degree,

but defence is rape on Carolans

wife on Nov 29th, confession and

charge to her husband on Dec 15th

and his shooting Muldowney on

Dec. 17th and jury will not convict.

(I do not think so at least) of any

thing higher than manslaughter.

-28th-

The “Whitehorse” a beautiful new

up-river steamer came in today

from Dawson with an excursion, and

Mrs. Wickersham and Howard went

up on her. They will only stop at

Dawson for two or three hours and

will keep on to Whitehorse on

this boat – she had a fine state

room and will have a splendid

trip. “Yukon” {Howards dog}

sat on the bank and

howled, & I felt like it.

[page break]

-29th-

Have tried case of U.S. vs. Carolan

all day – instructed the jury at 8 oclock

tonight and jury is now out deliberating

The Grand Jury returns indictment

against Kellum, Beaumonts lawyer,

for subornation of perjury! The

letter sworn to by Beaumont in his

case, was a forgery made by Kellum.

There are other indications showing that

Kellum and Powers committed bribery

or tried to do so, of the jury in the Beaumont

case! Have asked Mr. Harlan to

push the case to the very end.

Took dinner with Dr. and Mrs. Truholtz

- Mr. McGowan of Dawson present.

Am kept up nearly all night! Kellum & Powers

indicted for subornation of perjury & bribery in

the case of Beaumont.

“Tip” bit Reed, - and is yet alive!

The jury in the case of U.S. v. Carolan came

[page break]

in at 11 p.m. with verdict of murder in

first degree! – but without death penalty.

This is a sentence to the penitentiary for

life, and is a heavier sentence than I

expected – but is justified by the law and

the facts. It is a sure sign that the juries

are going to assist in the prosecution of crime

without favor or sympathy.

-30th-

“T. C. Powers” coming up river: she has 10

tons of U.S. mail aboard & possibly all our

supplies. Kellum and Powers arraigned

for subornation or perjury and bribery –

Bion A. Dodge admitted to the Alaska bar.

-31st-

In the case of U.S. v. Kellum overruled first

motion to postpone or continue his case

until next year: On second motion and

affidavit this morning I declined to grant the

continuance without he filed new affidavit: the

one upon which he based his second

[page break]

motion only says that “I believe I can

prove”. “I believe they will testify” so & so,

but I said I would not grant the continuance

without he filed a new affidavit setting up

the facts within his knowledge positively,

certainly and unequivocally, and

so clearly that if he swore falsely a

conviction for perjury could be based

upon the statements therein, gave them

until one oclock to do so. In passing

upon it I referred to the fact that Kellum

was a lawyer and that his act, if true,

attacked the very life of society and the courts,

and condemned such matters severely,

- yet said that he was presumed to be

innocent and was entitled to a fair

trail and his witnesses in defense.

I will grant the continuance upon the

positive affidavit being filed, and his consent

to take and use the depositions of the witnesses

for the government now here.

[page break]

[August 1901]

-Aug. 1st-

Sentenced Dan. Carolan to imprisonment

in the U.S. penitentiary McNeils Island,

for life, for the murder of Joseph Muldowney.

Sentenced Beaumont to 3 months in jail

- the very longest sentence possible!

Beaumont and witnesses for government in

U.S. v. Kellum were examined, depositions

written and signed. Decided case of

Taylor v. Berg, et. al. for plaintiff.

General Randall and party arrived here

on their special boat “Jeff C. Davis” yesterday

Was invited to dinner with them this morning.

Present, Genl Randall, Major Tucker,

Major Tutherly, Captain Bethel and Lt.

Tillman: Mr. C. B. Stone and I were the

guests, and enjoyed a bountiful dinner,

cigars and good talk – pleasant visit.

[page break]

-2nd-

Gen. Randall went down on his

Str. "Jeff C. Davis." Court about

through: decided several important

cases today - am very tired, and feel

almost ready to go to bed.

-3rd-

Str. "Powers" down river - letter

from Chas. E. Taylor saying that Debbie

& Howard were off safely from Dawson.

He also tells me that Rollin Scholes

died a week ago at Dawson after

only a couple days sickness - Poor

Jen - Rollin was a splendid young

man and I regret very much to hear

of his death. Steamer coming up

the river and the Perrys, and guards

will go out with Wilson, insane &

Carolan, convicted of murder in first degree.

The "Tyrell" came & Mrs. Perry, Wilson

& Carolan are gone, & a peaceful calm

[page break]

falls on the town. I have also

concluded to go tonight on the "Leah",

& leave George Jeffry here to come

with my mail on the first boat. I

sent Debbie a hundred dollars by

Ed Crouch who went as guard with

Carolan. Business of the court is

all finished and I can go without

leaving any unfinished business

This term of court has been of great

help to the people here and has,

from all expressions, given much satis

faction to them. I am satisfied that

much good has been accomplished

and a severe check given to crime.

Took passage on "Leah" for St. Micheal

Before we left wharf many persons came to

bid me goodbye - nearly every lawyer

had something to sign - forgotten until

the last minute. French told me, while I

was examining his accounts that his wife

[page break]

has sued him for divorce. He seemed

greatly to regret her determination &

said that he intended to go to Washington

D.C. (where I understand she lives) at

once – Good berth on Str. fare $65.00.

-4th-

Stuck on sandbar at 1 p.m. last night

and we are still here at dinner time -

Mrs. Rose Muller, whom I lectured in

the court room in the Beaumont case a

day or so ago, is on board with her husband

& child - she is happy & my lecture seems

to have had little effect. Mrs. Garrett,

whom I also somewhat disappointed

in her suit is on boad - but acts nicely

and not like so many narrow minded

women would. Steamer "Monarch"

passed going up river - loaded heavily &

gave us no attention - Men working

hard - broke lifting spars and went ashore

& cut and floated out new ones.

[page break]

-5th-

After incredible labor, lifting, heaving

and a double quantity of swearing

we are off!! On the bar for 32 +

hours - just a short distance

above Washington Creek - Mt. Washington

Passed the Louise & 3 barges at

Charley Creek. Reached Circle City

at 3 oclock - saw Edgar & Lizzie. Mr.

& Mrs. Claypool & children & Mr. Cowles

Mr. Hamilton, &c. At supper with

Edgar & Lizzie. Mrs. Smith & daughter

came aboard for down river

-6th-

We struck another sandbar in the

night - 5 hours and off. Passed the

Light-" (John P), and the "Lightning" just

above Ft. Yukon - one seemed on the

bar and out of her course, the other

tied by the woodyard and waiting for

her. Reached Ft. Yukon before

[page break]

noon and remained an hour - spent

it botanizing. Paid my respects to

Mountifield and Ketteler. Flying

down the river this afternoon -

[sketched map of Yukon River]

[sites on map:]

Porcupine River

Indian House graveyard

Church Parsonage Episcopal

N. A.T. Store

Indian Houses

Old Channel of the Yukon

Island

New Channel Yukon

[page break]

-7th-

Reached Rampart at 7 oclock

this morning - Mrs. Garrett left us

there. Other passengers came on.

Visited Balliet awhile who reports

things quiet. Passed the junction

of the Tanana river - the Yukon

is larger than either the Mississippi

or Missouri, - the Tanana-Yukon

equals the Mississippi-Missouri

Met Capt. & Mrs. Wright at Ft. Gibbon

& appointed Wm B. Rodman

Commissioner to date from this

day. Will write him fully from

St Micheal or Nome. [sketch of Tanana River]

[map sites:] Tanana Riv

east mouth west mouth

Yukon Riv

Previos[?], towne[?] & Ft. Gibbon

Junction Tanana with Yukon

[page break]

Str. "Linda" at Ft. Gibbon unloading

government supplies. Ft. Gibbon

is a thriving western town & military

post. Two companies of infantry

under Capt. Wright, engaged in building

telegraph line - which will be finished

this fall from St. Micheal to Ft. Gibbon

& next year to connect with outside

line at Eagle, when it will also

connect with Valdez line.

-8th-

Passed the mouth of the Koyukuk

river. It falls into the Yukon

from the north - junction is a

great level plain, but between

two peculiar mountains - one on

either bank of the Koyukuk.

They rise some 500 feet high,

run parallel with each other and

toward the south east: They

[page break]

form a striking feature in the

surrounding flat landscape

and may bee seen for many miles

in each direction.

[sketched map of Yukon and Koyukuk Rivers]

[map captions:] Koyukuk Riv.

Mt. Yukon River Island W N E S

High bluffs on northwest bank of

Yukon terminating at Nulato -

an old Russian trading station.

We stopped there several hours -

telegraph line from St. Micheal

overland to this place now in use.

Capt. McGinley of this boat is

here instructed by telegraph

[page break]

to await the return of the Str.

"Louise", whose Capt. – Dickson -

died at Circle City last week, &

to assume command of her. We

are to be transferred to another boat

at Andreanoffsky and "Leah"

will not go farther now. While

at Nulato I visited Catholic

Mission - but Father Jette was

not at home - Father Boss was

however, and was kindly attentive.

Gave me their only publication in

Indian "Prayers & Hymns in the

Tinneh Lanuage", 1897 - He wrote

in it "F. Crispin Boss, Nulato

Cath. Mission, 8 July 1901."

Went to visit grave of Lt. Barnard

who was killed in the Massacre in

1851, - by the Koyukuk Indians

The Yukon is now a lordly

river - greater than the

[page break]

Mississippi, - it is said to carry

one-third more water to the sea

than the “Father of Waters” – In

a century from now, I predict,

this great valley, rich in its lands

will contain a population of

a million people – they will

raise wheat, and other hardy

grains, and there will be railroads

mines, &c. – a live portion of

our great country. Two Indians

- rather old men – came up to me while standing

waiting for the steamer to go, and spoke to me in

their native tongue – a young man near trans

lated it, and {told me they}

said that they were old men and had

no tobacco – wanted me to give them some -

Having none, but charmed with their “gall”

I gave one a silver coin – half a dollar -

The jabbering began louder and more fierce

than before, and in a moment or two my

[page break]

interpreter said “No, they cant

do that” – “What?” I replied in

astonishment. “No” he replied “they

cant work {for} that. way – there are two

of them. You must give some money

to each. They cant work that way.”

In short, each of these precious beggars

demanded a coin! They could not afford

to buy the tobacco and divide it, - each

independent gentleman wanted his

own fund. It is needless to say that

they got nothing more, except a laugh.

whereat, too, they good naturedly laughed.

Father Jette is engaged in preparing

the grammar of the lower Tinneh tribe

& Father Boss Rossi showed me his Mss.

It is characteristic of the scholar

- orderly, diffuse, systematic –

and beautifully executed. He is

not hurrying its completion, but

rather seems anxious to reach

[page break]

thorough preparation. I hope

to see Father Jette at Holy

Cross Mission and talk with

him about the work. I shall

encourage him to have it publish

=ed soon – His Mss. is copper

plate in appearance – his gram

=mar systematically divided &c

with notes &c (Father Rossi)

-9th-

We tied up at a wood camp early

this morning and loaded wood for

6 ½ hours, - enough to bring the boat

back to wood again from Andreoffsky

Rained all forenoon and early part

of the afternoon – it is coast weather

and in striking contrast with the dry

climate of the interior. We stopped

at the “Holy Cross Mission for an

hour this morning. Visited the Fathers

- their garden, schools, and the Indian

[page break]

Father Jette was not at home – he

was on the “Susie” which we passed

some ten miles above “Holy Cross Mission

on his way up to Nulato. I talked

with another Father about him and

his language labors (the father was French

- dark whiskers & hair), and promised

to get the Bureau of Ethnology to send

their “Linguistic Map” and other

publications interesting to a person

like these two fathers. “Holy Cross”

Mission is the last Tinneh town

going down the river – the next

Indian camp is but 18 miles down

the river – but it is Eskimo! and the

Father (who speaks the Tinneh) tells

me that the difference between the

two villages is as distinct as

between any other languages – it

there is no connection either in

vocabulary or grammar.

[page break]

There are a few borrowed words

- and but a few – and no other mark

of relationship. He tells me

that the Kuskokwim is peopled

- on its upper waters by the Tinneh

and near the coast by Eskimo.

I saw at “Holy Cross” the birch bark

canoe so common among all the

Tinneh tribes, and also the “Kiak”

or skin canoe of the Eskimo, and

noted the Eskimo features in more

than one native – also the “parka”

hood & other dress features of the Eskimo

- but neither baskety (except the

Tinneh birch bark basket) nor carving.

-10th-

We reached Andreaffsky [Andreafsky] at 10 a.m.

and as we must await a transfer of

freight from the “Herman” to the “Leah” &

vice versa – we have a days time to spare

I will visit the Indian – Eskimo.

[page break]

camps to study their surroundings

to see what I can find.

[sketched map of Yukon River]

[map captions:] Andreanoffsky

Pitkas Camp Yukon River

Andreanoffsky is situated about a

mile and half up that stream from the

Yukon, and on the left or west bank.

It consists of warehouses, storehouse,

drop & hotel for the Companys men in winter.

It is the winter quarters of the A.C. Co. (now

the N.C. Co), - there are several loaded barges

now here waiting to go up river – “Hannah”

is laid up here also.

Soon after we landed at Andreanoffsky

a Malemute (Eskimo) came alongside

in his “Kiack” or one-holed-skin boat

and I bought a spear thrower (the

[page break]

Aztec atlatl) from him together with

a spear. He threw it for me several

times, from his boat, and I was surprised

at the skill and dexterity with which he

used it. At 50 yards he could strike

a small chip in the water, and his

exhibition was a practical demonstra

=tion of the value of this unique weapon.

I can well understand, from his use

of it, what a serious menace it must

have proved to Cortez and his Spanish

conquistadors, when thrown in clouds by

the captive desperate and courageous

Aztecs. Went down to Pitka’s village

in the afternoon in canoe with two

Eskimo boys. Pitka is a half breed

Russian from Sitka who came here,

as he puts it, “to stay tree mont [3 months] – twenty

thee year ago” – he is here to stay & He

has built a small Russian (Greek) church

at his village, where he rules with patriarch

[page break]

=al sway over a half breed crew of Eskimo

(- the old ones are full blood). Bought

10 or 12 beautiful baskets – a spear

thrower & a large mammoth tooth. As

well as some small carvings in ivory -

The difference between the culture here

and at “Holy Cross” Mission – the last

Tinneh camp coming down the river,

is as marked as that between night &

day – The Tinneh use the birch bark

canoe, (it may be an attempt to copy the

Kiack), make no baskets and do not

carve – they are thriftless and wandering

in their life, - without settled abodes.

On the other hand the Malemutes (Eskimo)

make the beautiful Kiack, splendid

baskets (both the spiral roll-work

and woven paternes) and are splendid

carvers in ivory and wood.

Pitka’s son is a bright young man

about 20 – he went to School at

[page break]

Unalaska for 6 years & he speaks

& reads both Russian & English, & can

speak four Eskimo dialects as well.

Left him in Russian bath house.

-11th-

Changed from “Leah” to “Herman” &

started on final stage to St. Micheal

at 3 – in the afternoon – It was

a beautiful afternoon and evening – the

“flats” at the delta stretched away as far

as one could see – looks like a piece

of rich valley land – suitable for

hay – above the overflow & now covered

in every direction with waving fields of

wild grass – ducks, geese & sand hills

cranes nest there, - and yet as the current

cuts away the bank it exposes the frozen

soil beneath.

-12th-

When we came out on deck at 7 oc

we were nearly up to Pt. Romanoff

[page break]

- out in Berings Sea. It is a

beautiful morning clear – without

a cloud, and the sun shining – warm

and delightful – yet just enough

breeze from the north to make the

- invigorating. Will be in

St. Micheal at noon. We

learn that probably the “Portland”

will leave St. M_ today or tomorrow

-hope it is tomorrow, so that I can

have today in St. M_

Arrived in St. M_ at 1 oclock. Mr. Stewart

Menzies met us at the gangplank – before we

were permitted to go ashore with the loud

inquiry “Is Judge Wickersham aboard?

Upon an answering {a satisfactory}

answer he took me to one side

and very quietly acquainted me with the fact that

his wedding was fixed at 3 oclock – and there

was neither minister nor officer at St. M_ to

marry them! He was in a cold perspiration

at the fear that I was not aboard, - which

[page break]

immediately upon seeing me changed

again into a hot one. Capt. Hibbard

of the N.C. Co invited me to go to the N.C.

officers quarters – I accepted and found

Capt Jarvis of the Navy there also-

Married Mr. Stewart Menzies and

Miss Adeline A Hill, at the home of

Mr & Mrs Royle, at 3 oclock. Among

those present besides the bride & groom

were Mr & Mrs. Royle, Mr & Mrs Washburn

Miss Hill & brother (sister & brother of the bride),

Mr. Louis Sloss, Capt Hanson, Capt

Hibbard and others whose names I have

not remembered. The bridal party

left at 4 oclock on the Str. “Sarah”

up the Yukon river – for Dawson & the

outside via Skagaway. At dinner

at Capt Hibbards were Mr & Mrs Wash

=burn, Capt Hibbard, Capts. Bethel,

U.S.A. & Capt Jarvis U.S. N. During

the evening General Randall & Major

[page break]

Tucker. U.S.A. Called and with our

dinner party we passed a pleasant

evening. After all had retired except

Capt. Jarvis and I we had a long

and interesting talk about the

N. W. Coast natives – the Aleuts & Eskimos.

-13th-

A beautiful morning – without a

cloud – sunshine and warmth. I

will take Str. “St. Paul”, tomorrow

night for Nome, – remain over one day

& reach Unalaska about Sunday night.

Visited Father Camille & other Catholic fathers

-procured book of sermons, prayers &c. in

Innuit – only one published by them.

Visited Indian camps for throwing sticks.

In the morning visited the new river Str.

“Will H. Isom” with General Randall –

took dinner with him at his quarters

in the evening. Present, Genl Randall,

Major Tucker, Capt. Richardson

[page break]

Bethel, Wheiler, & {Major} Brigham,

& Dr. Major Ebert. Spent a delightful

evening with them also.

-14th-

Bought my ticket yesterday for Unalaska

via Nome, on Str. “St Paul” which will sail

tonight. Also took a Russian bath in the

old log bathhouse – built by the Russians

when in possession of St. Micheal –fine!

Bought two large walrus tusks – 16 lbs. – from

N.C. Co. store, and leave them with Mr. Zip, agent,

to have them polished and etched this winter.

Paid $9.60 (60¢ per lb) for them – polishing & carving

extra. Have also bought curios – carvings &c.

Saw the Eskimo from Nunivak Is. trading in stores

this morning – also other natives, and am struck

with surprise at the confidence displayed in their

honesty by the employes of the Cos. They go behind

the counters, handle goods, upstairs & down, &

no attention whatever is given them – no watch

upon their movements or handing goods, even

[page break]

small and valuable articles, and when I called

the attention of the agents to these facts I was assured

that “they are thoroughly honest, we never watch

them.” They went where they pleased, handled

the goods as if they owned them, and when they

found what they wanted: brought it to the agent

or clerk, and if the piece suited the trade was

concluded. The agents say that they are

honest – until from long residence around

the town among the whites – some, a very few

become dishonest by acquaintance with

theft among the whites! Left St. M. for

Nome on Str. “St. Paul” at 10 p.m.

-15th-

Str. St Paul is a day behind time-

spent today around St. Micheal visiting

Indians, stores &c. Str. for St M_

-16th-

Had a delightful trip over from {St. M. to}

Nome and reached here this morning

at 9 oclock – Bright sunny

[page break]

morning, water smooth & only a slight

swell. We anchored half a mile off

shore and went off in surf boats to

beach. Saw many Tacoma friends

- Judge Noyes left here last

Monday {Aug. 14. 12.} for Washington and the

outside – San Francisco. There

is an intense, bitter and widespread

feeling here against him. The bar

held a meeting last night and sent

out strong petition to President

asking for his removal. It is signed

by the strongest and best members like

Judge Johnson – who impresses me

as a man of high character. It is to be

telegraphed to the President from S. F.

- about 50 members of the bar signed it.

Judge Noyes left without making

any arrangement for court here –

he cannot, probably, get back

[page break]

before July 1 of next year – and

the papers and people are abusing

him outrageously for leaving the great

interests in the district without settlement

so long. I have talked with both

the friends and enemies of Judge Noyes

today – from all I hear I conclude

that he is an honest but a careless

and rather weak man – one easily

led by designing people who assume

the tone and character of friends for

sinister purposes. He has been

imposed upon – and has weakly

yielded to the plots and designs of

persons who have not even defended

him after imposing upon his weakness

and credulity. I am not at all favorably

impressed with his appointees either.

The situation here is bad – last

night – 75 armed men went upon a

valuable claim, ousted the possessor

[page break]

shot one badly – and are now in

possession – claims are now being

worked out by the strong party in open

violation of injunctions of the court –

- the courts orders are treated with open

contempt and disdain. A reign of

anarchy exists – so far as it can exist –

in an American camp. Called on

Mrs Noyes – who is yet here but who will

soon go outside – and paid my respects

She is a good woman and feels badly

hurt over the attacks upon the judge.

Tacoma people with whom I visited

today: P. C. Sullivan, Sam Milligan

Sternberg – Perl – Joe. Easterday,

and many others, and also many friends

from Seattle and Olympia. Was informed

by Marshal Richards and Clerk Steel

that it would be impossible to get enough

jurors at Unalaska – and as it is

known that there are one or two

[page break]

murder cases there for investigation

& after due consideration of all the

conditions I have ordered the drawing

of a grand and trial jury here and

will take them on the St Paul with

me to Unalaska. The Marshal has

consequently summoned 16 grand

jurors and 18 – trial jurors all of

whom are now on board the St Paul

bound for that place with me – also

Dept. Clerk Read, and Marshal Richards

-17th-

On St. Paul off St. Lawrence Island – not

sea sick – ate a hearty breakfast & feel fine.

Sullivan and some other lawyers are going

out to Unalaska to try a civil case also.

-18th-

Sunday morning – 75 miles NE {of St Paul} or

midway between St Paul Seal Islands &

Nunivak Is., - Have not been sea sick

and am enjoying the trip – am surprised

[page break]

that I am not sea sick – but it is owing

probably to the smooth sea, and the steadiness

of the steamer. Have been carefully exam

=ining the only civil case which Judge Noyes

sent down to Unalaska for me to try. He

seems to have once been a stockholder

and Treasurer in the company plaintiff.

There are two atrocious murder cases to be

investigated also. Will reach Unalaska

tonight & open court tomorrow.

-19th-

When I awoke this morning the first

sound I heard was the bellow of a cow

and the crow of a rooster – we were at

the dock at Unalaska. Coming upon

deck I was delighted with the wildness

and picturesqueness of the scenery in the

harbor. High, round, grass covered mountain

islands; bays and bright waters; a clean

bright town along the waters edge, with

schools, churches, stores, docks, and

[page break]

several small vessels at anchor

the sun light struggling through the clouds

and a general wet mist such as we have

on Puget Sound, gave me the feeling of being

in a familiar climate – near home –

I am much pleased with Unalaska, it

is an attractive spot, historic and interesting

Everything is in good shape for court, we

have for court room a large room over

the A.C.Co. bathhouse and laundry –

but one well adapted to the purpose.

Court met at 11 oclock – present

James Wickersham Judge, John T. Reed,

Dept. Clerk, Frank Richards, U.S. Marshal

Mr. N_ Griggs, Dept. U.S. Marshal, and J. L. McGinn

Dept. Dist. Atty. Grand Jury empanelled & sworn &

charged: 2 persons charged with murder

brought before them: {One is accused}

Two are charged with

killing two three miners

{Con & Florence Sullivan & J. J. Rooney}

on Unimak Island:

the other is an Indian (Aleut) charged with

killing his wife. Owing to the fact that

[page break]

the Dist. Atty. is not yet familiar with

the evidence in these cases it will take the

Grand Jury some time to get to work.

Before the “St. Paul” left here Mr. Wash

=burn, Genl. Manager A. C. Co. informed me that

when he reached S. Francisco his people would

immediately urge Atty. Genl. to transfer me

to Nome. I am very doubtful about this

matter – while I think I can manage

the Nome litigation satisfactorily and

probably make a good reputation –

yet things there are in a wolfish state &

the climate is the worst in America.

Appointed C. D. Folger, of Nome, formerly

of Tacoma, foreman of Grand Jury.

20th-

Grand Jury at work but nothing else

ready. Hardy, the man accused of the

murder of Con. and Florence Sullivan

and P. J. Rooney is accused of horrible

crimes besides these. He shot all three

[page break]

of these men on Unimak Island & their

watches, money &c. were found on his

person. McGinn is working hard

as Dist. Atty – doing well.

I visited Dutch Harbor – met Capt.

Nice and other people. Views here

& at Unalaska finest I ever saw.

The revenue cutter “Manning” came

into port yesterday and brought 3 cast

away Japanese sailors. The left

their sealing schooner near Copper

Island to hunt, drifted away in the

fog & landed several days after

on St Paul Island. Will send them

down to Japanese Consul at Tacoma

on Santa Ana.

-21st-

Another quiet day – grand jury working

on case against Hardy for Unimak

Is. murders. Nothing for trial jury

to do until trial of these cases.

[page break]

Large vessel coming into Dutch Harbor

now (5:30 p.m.) supposed to be the “Conem

=augh” which was unloading coal at

St. Micheal when I was there. We are

looking for “Santa Ana” every hour – she

is due. George Jeffery and my mail

may come on her. Bought some baskets,

and Russian cups & saucers for presents.

-22-

When I awake in the morning I hear

chickens crowing, pigeons cooing, cows

and calves bellowing, pigs grunting &

all the sounds of the farm – a pitched

battle took place yesterday morning

before I was up between two bulls – I

thought I was back on East Fork or Bentons

Branch. Unalaska is a beautiful place.

Climbed the high peak back of Unalaska

today, - abut 3,000 ft. Mountain

marmots abound from water level up for

1000 feet – none above that line. Saw

[page break]

tracks of foxes. Saw the raven flying from

high to lower levels, - every time he uttered

his call – “tlock-lock”, he turned over

on his back for a second – thus “[sketch of raven]”

with his feet uppermost. I was surprised

to see him – several of them – do this

repeatedly on lowering themselves valley

=ward. The “Challenge” a small

schooner is in port from “At{h}ka Island.

There are no settlements, even of natives

between Unalaska island and “Athka

island” and only Athka and Attou

have to the west have inhabitants.

The schooner “Challenge” is owned by Capt.

Dirks, while her commander is Capt.

Peterson. They are both old Alaska

Commercial Co men, and came into

this region with the Western Union Tel Co.

in 1867 or thereabouts to build the line

via Yukon river and Berings straits

to Europe. Years ago they returned

[page break]

from active service, married native women

on Athka island, and are now lords

of Athka and Attou. The crew of the

Challenge consists of the half breed sons

of the two old sea dogs, and a daughter

attends as cook. Their cargo was {consisted}

of furs, fish and baskets, they take back

their supplies for the winter. No other white

men except these two live to the westward

of Unalaska.

Grand jury returned three indictments

against Fred. Hardy, one each for the

murder of Con. Sullivan, Florence Sullivan

and P. J. Rooney. They were murdered

on June 7th 1901, on Unimak island.

They and a man by the name of Jackson

were there prospecting. Leaving their

camp, the murderer approached, secured

their guns, and upon their return shot

killed and robbed them. Jackson escaped

after incredible hardship, and finally reached

[page break]

Unalaska & reported to the authorities.

The Revenue Cutter “Manning” went to

Unimak island with Jackson & officers

found and buried the three dead men

(whose bones had been cleaned by foxes), &

found and arrested Hardy, who had

the money and watches of the dead

men on his person. It was most an

outrageous and cold blooded murder &

the perpetrator ought to suffer death.

-23rd-

Grand jury now examining into Indian

murder on south side of Unalaska island.

The case of U.S. v. Hardy cannot be

tried until the “Manning” can go to Unimak

Island for witnesses, and certain guns

hidden there by Hardy. This will make

us very slow, apparently, in this term

but I have determined that nothing shall

be left undone to bring to punishment the

man who killed the three miners on Unimak.

[page break]

Dance tonight in the court room.

I am engaged now in preparing instructions

to the jury in cases against Hardy &

the Indian murderer. The British

cutter {vessel} “Condor” is in port.

-24th-

This is my birthday – I am 44 yrs. old.

There was quite an interesting dance last

night at the Court room hall: Two

white ladies, and the rest Russian or

mixed Russian and Aleut. Some of

them good looking and quite graceful.

The Str. “Santa Ana” came in from Nome last

night – Jeffrey, stenographer did not

come. Since we left a massmeeting of

2000 people held and forwarded a

petition (by Santa Ana) asking for Judge

Noyes removal.. (On account of his

indecision & signing contrary orders he

is called by one of the papers – Judge No-yes

- No – yes – pretty good!

[page break]

Court today as usual. Indian Gregorie

Yetshmanoff {indicted and} arraigned: appointed Mr.

Howard, his attorney. Grand jury at work.

Visited officers of revenue cutter “Manning”

Capt Buhner, Lt. Landry, Lt. Edmunds, &c.

Spent evening at Mr. J. R. Whipples – present

Mr & Mrs J. R. W - Marshal Richards & Mr Gray.

We played “solo” and another new game.

-25th 26th-

Sunday. Attended the Greek (Russian)

Church this morning. The service was

very interesting, chanting and singing.

Two good clear voices in the choir. The

church is a fair edifice with all the

trappings, bells, paintings and bric-a-brac

of the type so dear to the impressionable people.

Schooner “Challenge” left port for Atka

Island, while the “Kodiak” from Bristol

Bay & the Kuskokwim river entered.

A rainy, bad day.

[page break]

-26th-

Court today. Hearing Mozollon Ex. Co. v. Richards

Howard for plft. & Sullivan for defendant.

My neck is hurting me badly & nearly disabling

me from work. I am wearing porous plaster &

will try hot water bottle tonight. Grand jury

trying to indict Comr. Whipple while McGinn is

absent. This is most wonderful climate

I know of – it does not get warmer than 10° above –

a range of only 55°! There are patches

of snow all summer lying not a thousand

feet above sea level. The Indians in the

case of the Indian murderer are about to fail

as witnesses for fear that if he is found guilty

he will be hung. They would be willing to

tell the truth if he was only to go to the penitentiary

but if he is to hang they will be dumb. The

Marshal has engaged Miss Mary Wagner,

a thorough Aleut scholar to act as interpreter

in the case – no one else competent.

[page break]

-27-

Trial Mongollon Ex. Co. v Richards.

“Manning” not in yet.

-28th-

Decided case of Mongollon Ex. Co. vs.

Richards, against Sullivan & for the

plaintiff. It has been hanging at Nome

for a long time – argued – but not decided.

Another dance at the courtroom tonight.

Ball was a great success – Unalaska

belles happy – and the younger and dashing

Nome members of my juries are likewise.

-29th-

Nothing from the “Manning” yet. She

ought to have been in not later than yesterday

but for two days a storm from N.W. has been

blowing, & as he has to land on north coast

of Unimak – on the open, - it is evident

that they are unable to finish the work for that

reason – it would be dangerous. We can

do nothing until she gets in, - all ready there

[page break]

I am at work industriously on my instructions

to the jury in the Hardy & Indian murder cases,

- the nonappearance of the “Manning” leaves

me time to do the work which I otherwise

could not do – without great haste, &c.

-30-

The British cutter “Condor” came in to Dutch Harbor

last night & reports heavy storm from north for 3

days past – the “Manning” could not be near shore

on north side of Unimak – but would have to put to

sea – Wrote long letter to Debbie, - mail will

go out on “Condor” Sunday morning.

-31st-

Sent out my voucher for Aug. $421.20 No sign

of the “Manning” yet. Nothing at court today.

Spent the evening at Mr & Mrs Parrish’s. Present

Mr. Gray, Marshal Richard, Dep. Ck Reed, Mr & Mrs P_

Miss Parrish and Miss Wagner, & I. Played whist.

The “Manning” coming into port at 9 oo

[p?] m.– Learn later that their trip was finally

successful – but no particulars.

[page break]

[September 1901]

Sept. 1st Sunday

The coming of the Manning last night

with Dist. Atty. and witnesses makes it possible

to go ahead with Hardy case tomorrow.

I left Unalaska this morning at 10 oclock &

climbed the mountain on the east side of the harbor

(about 2000 ft height) found that on Aug 24, two men

had preceded me and left a staff upon which they

had written “We, J. A. Ellis and William Sowerby [?]

have agreed to call this peak Wickersham Peak –

[?] govern yourself according – Aug 24, 1901.”

Saw two red foxes on top – one sat and barked at

me until I was within 100 yards – when he ran.

Went inland and S. E. and climbed high peaks

between Unalaska and Biorka harbor – spent

the afternoon gazing out across the blue Pacific

[fro]m the highest points – 2500 ft. Read an interesting

[nov]el “The Master of the Mine” by Buchanan. Saw

[an]other red fox and got within 50 ft. – above him

[?] a ledge. He lay curled up in the sunshine

[page break]

[?] flower beds below. When he saw me [he?]

came around nearer to examine the queer

specimen, but as soon as he gained the quart[er]

whence the wind carried the scent – pish! and he

[f]lew like an arrow of light. Beautiful meadow

filled with flowers – great variety even for spring

but surpassing in Sept. Waterfalls, flowers, balmy

breezes from Japan current, moisture, and an

absence of frost, make these high round volcanic

[i]slands interesting. “Wickersham” is a volcani[c]

[?] this island – about 5000 ft high. Reached

[ho]me at 5 oclock after a splendid day on the

[su]mmits, & in the interior of Unalaska.

Sept. 2nd

[?]st for continuance in the Hardy case.

[impo]ssible to begin trial – will begin it in the

[?]ing if application for continuance denied

U.S.S. Seward is just in from Seattle

[?] mail. I am in receipt of a letter f[rom?]

[Atty Gen?]eral to go back to Nome [& ? ]

[page break]

am disappointed, for I had made up my

mind that I was going home for a brief visi[t]

[an]d the disappointment is keen. If Judge

[N]oyes is detained by the C.C.A. and does

[n]ot get away from San Francisco earlier

[th]an the 15th of Oct, I will probably be

[c]onfined in Nome for the winter. My visit

[h]ome is gone – hard work – thankless task,

[to?]o, at Home. Hope the wolf wont rend

[m]y bones asunder as he has poor Judge Noyes.

Capt. Downing, of “Seward” just in – he says the

[p]apers roasting Judge Noyes. Sent Grand jury ou[t on?]

[? “Seward – Received the report & discharged

[the]m tonight at 10 oclock. Expense of Grand Jury

[?] is $3352.00 of court will be $15,000, or more

Sept. 3rd

[Beg?]an Trial of U.S v. Hardy. Jury empanel[ed.]

[Tes]timony of 3 witnesses including Ow[?]

[?]kson, main witness for prosecution to[morrow?]

[?] from 9 in morning until 9.30 toni[ght?]

[?]30

[page break]

Sept. 4th 1901.

Trial of U.S v. Hardy – all day from

9:30 in the morning until 9:30 at night.

-5th-

The Str. “Roanoke” came in this morning –

and will remain until tomorrow evening.

Trial of U.S v. Hardy all day long until

9:30 at night. Prosecution rested.

-6th-

Very plain earthquake shock at noon.

Instructions ready for jury in U.S. v. Hardy –

U.S. v. Hardy all day until 10 oclock

tonight. Will finish tomorrow – Met

Capt. Weaver of Str. “Roanoke” today –

-7th-

After a long, hard trial, from Tuesday

morning until 9 oclock tonight the

case of U.S. v. Hardy was finished by

a verdict of guilty of murder in the first

degree – without the case is reversed he

will be hung. The crime was committed

on June 7th on the north shore of the

[inverted, in pencil:] Charley River

[page break]

Unimak Island – at Cape Lapin.

4 prospectors – left one load of their

goods, including rifle, shotgun, revolvers

& all their ammunition and returned for the

second load. Hardy got into camp, got

their arms and when they landed with the

next load shot Con. Sullivan & his brother

Florance and P. J. Rooney – and came within

an inch of wounding Owen Jackson, who

after the most terrible hardships finally

escaped, and reported the murder – after

wandering nearly crazy for 20 days –

It was an atrocious, coldblooded and

horrible murder – there is one circumstance

however, in my mind, that I want investigated

and then I am beyond doubt in favor of

hanging the murderer Hardy, who

was found with all their property, money,

watches, &c &c. in his possession.

P. C. Sullivan, of Tacoma & John W. Corson,

of Seattle defended him – ably.

[page break]

Sullivan and Corson were very flattering

in their commendation of my instructions to the

jury – Sullivans commendation is particularly

gratifying to me – Both from Tacoma – longtime

warm personal friends – it was a real satisfaction

to have him say “I am proud of you.” On a

matter of so much importance – where a human

life is at stake, to have as good a lawyer as

he is speak so strongly is very gratifying – and

especially to a young judge – who now “goes

up against” the situation at Nome.

-8th-

Visited the Hotel Rutley at Dutch Harbor

this evening and took dinner with Mrs.

Rutley and her daughters. They are very

pleasant people – from San Francisco.

Capt. Nice of the North American Commercial

Co. – lessees of the Fur seal islands – is in

charge of that Co. at Dutch Harbor. A

store, hotel, dock, saloon, hospital

and few warehouses & coal pile is Dutch Harbor

[page break]

-9th-

Trial of U.S. v. Yatshmenoff, murder of his

wife, begun & tried all day. Str. “Senator”

came in this evening & will wait until tomorrow

evening for us. – We will finish court & go to

Nome on her. – court and jury. In the evening

at the Greek Church attended wedding of Ida

Newman, a Unalaska belle – creole – to Ralph

, a young assistant Inspector U.S.

Customs Dept. I was asked to assist by

leading the bride to the altar – but pleaded want of

apparel – but as the bride will become a mother

in about 4 months (and her silk dressing {wedding}

dress displayed expansive rotundity) I very

firmly but politely insisted upon my excuse – and

was excused. Attended the festivities at the

wedding feast and the house of Mr. N. Gray,

agent, A. C. Co. – who is a veritable patriarch

among these people (lacking only the age – for he is

but 40), - for he attends them at births, marriages & deaths,

and transacts all their business through life.

[page break]

-10th-

Aboard the Str “Senator” in Dutch Har

-bor. Finished the trial of the Indian – Yatsh=

=menoff, jury found him guilty of

manslaughter. Sentenced Hardy

at 2 oclock to be hanged at Nome

on Dec. 6th. He chewed gum and

was the least moved person present.

Also sentenced Yatshminoff to 20

years at McNeils Island Penitentiary

Washington. Court adjourned to meet

in Nome next 16th of this month

Met Mr. Joshua Pierce on “Senator”

also Mrs. Judge T. M. Reed of Olympia

I have a beautiful stateroom – No. “4.”

11th-

Came on board “Senator” last night – this

morning at 4 oclock we left Dutch

Harbor in a terrible storm – waves high

& sea very rough

8 oclock - sea sick

[page break]

Noon – Sicker

Evening – Sickest.

Midnight – Dying –

-12th-

Morning – Still dying –

Noon – Trouble with waiter.

Said something about a farmer going

to sea – and laughed – threw shoe at

him, - broke glass - $2.00 cheap –

Still trying to die.

Night – still have hopes of dyeing.

-13th-

Still alive but very sick –

Noon – Damn Noah – or Jonah

or Columbus – or whoever it was

who invented sea voyages. Over

-heard conversation {day before} yesterday in next room

between Sullivan (P.C) and John W. Corson

Seattle Attys. The night we left Dutch Harbor

they had a “good jag” on – were drunk in

plain English – When remorse &

[page break]

seasickness combined on them

next day – between spells of eruptions

and stomach retchings – both using the

same bucket – Corson said – looking

across at Sullivan with tears in his

eyes – “By God, Charlie, if I get out

of this alive I’ll swear off drinking” –

As soon as he could speak, Sullivan

replied – “No, John, we wont swear off

drinking – we’ll just swear off going

to sea! Whoop” – and together they

who-o-o-ped, into the same old bucket –

Noon – Nobody dead yet –

Night – Sea calm, and see no immediate

necessity for dying. Will be in Nome in the

morning – May conclude to live again.

-14th-

When I awoke this morning we were anchored

in front of Nome – the sea as smooth as glass

and that city on the golden sands stretching

away on either side of us. After inspection

[page break]

by the Health Officer we went ashore, and I

was never happier to set foot on land – I

am still sea sick tonight.

I have been very kindly received by the people here

and if I am not mistaken I have an opportunity

to make a high and honorable record for myself

as judge – if I am permitted to clean up the

very bad condition which exists here.

I adjourned the Unalaska term to meet here on

Monday. I will go at once to hearing cases

without jury. My decision in the Mongollon Case

at Unalaska, and the speedy dispatch of the bus

-iness of that court has produced a good impress

=ion, and I feel sure that I start with a good

feeling toward me. Whether Judge Noyes is

to blame or not for the unfortunate condition

here, the fact exists that the Nome court tangle

has been used even in National politics to show

the troubles likely to result to the country from

the McKinley policy of expansion – it ha[s]

[page break]

annoyed and distressed the National admin

-istration – and I have a chance to correct

the evil – if I am of such weight and char

=acter as to manage the immense and wide

spread questions and interests involved.

I feel absolutely equal to the emergency

and intend to take hold with an iron

hand – encased in silk. My greatest

task so far in life, begins Monday Morning

and I feel no fear. Saw the largest nugget

today yet found in this region – in possession of

Lindeberg – from “Discovery” on Anvil & work

$1552.00

Sept. 15th (Sunday).

Wrote letters today – public & private,

as mail goes out on “Roanoke” tonight.

Took dinner with General Randall {U.S.A.} on

U.S.S. “Seward” this evening: present Genl.

Randall, Capt. W. A. Bethel, U.S.A. W. A. Sternberg

Capt. Wm M. Pinkston, Capt. Omar J. Humphrey

& self: occupied the right hand seat & had

[page break]

a fine meal. – Tacoma goose & Yakima

watermelons with the rest.

-16th-

Court met in Nome courthouse at 10 a.m.

Large assemblage of lawyers & other persons

present. After looking

over the docket and studying

the conditions here I am

satisfied that there is no serious trouble ahead of me

in the management of their litigation. The conditions

are all new – there is no long line of local precedents

to follow – I will be able to able to blaze out the trails myself,

and with new conditions, new country, a population

gathered from the ends of the earth, and a bar from

every state and territory, and a new code without

any binding decisions under it. I am at considerable

liberty in my movements. It will only be necessary

to be careful. Keep within the limits of the statute and

the rules of equity – and work like a slave. The

pressure of the bar for immediate work is not

what I expected – I will have to push them along

[newspaper clipping:]

“ At the opening of court, before

proceeding to other business, Judge

Wickersham addressed the members

of the bar as follows:

“GENTLEMEN OF THE BAR: - Pur-

suant to the directions of the Attor-

ney General the Unalaska term of

court was adjourned to meet at

Nome at this hour. A special term

has been called for the 7th of Octo-

ber at which there will be a jury.

Before proceeding to the business of

the court I wish to make a request;

I wish to call the attention of the

members of the bar to a personal

matter. I respectfully request that

no member of this bar at any time in

private conversation with me refer

in any way to the difficulties hereto-

fore arising publicly between the

court and some members of the bar.

These matters are being investigated

by the proper tribunal, and I do not

want to hear them discussed in any

way except as they may become im-

portant in the record in the trial of

some matter in this court. I will

consider it an imposition upon my

good nature if any member of the

bar shall undertake to discuss the

difficulties mentioned with me at any

time, and will thank you to remem-

[page break]

[newspaper clipping:]

“ber this while I am here.

The court is required to hold its

sessions in public, and I respectfully

request that no member of the bar

shall in my private office or any other

place except in the court room or in

the presence of the opposing counsel

speak to me at any time upon any

matter connected with the litigation

in this court. It will be my endeavor

to be in court publicly every day and

give counsel every opportunity for a

full hearing of any cause pending be-

fore the court, and the court earnest-

ly requests that no member of the bar

will presume upon his good nature

by trying to engage him in private

conversation in relation to any matter

pending before the court.

“The clerk is endeavoring to pre-

pare a calendar showing the condi-

tion and character of every case

pending before the court, and each

member of the bar is requested to

prepare a list of all the cases in

which he is interested, and opposite

each case whether it is to be tried by

the court or a jury, and whether it is

at issue, and hand the list to the

Clerk of the Court as early as possi-

ble. If attorneys will do this it will

be of very great assistance to the

clerk and to the court in the prepar-

ation of the calendar and will tend

to expedite the business of the court

very materially.”

Court was thereupon regularly

convened and proceeded to the

hearing of several applications for

warrants for contempt against par-

ties who have been accused of voi-

lating injunctions heretofore issued

by Judge Noyes. After hearing the

attorneys in these cases court took

a recess until 2 o’clock P.M.”

[page break]

-18th-

Str “Queen” came into port this afternoon &

we are greatly shocked at the attempt to assasin

=ate President McKinley. We received the

papers of two days – the day he was shot & the

day after – we will not know the result but

must continue in painful suspense until the

next mail comes in. Expressions of sympathy

are heard everywhere, and the act meets with

universal horror and execration. A public

meeting will be held at Congregational Church

on Sunday night. – I am asked to respond

to resolutions condemning the horrible act

& will do so.

-19th-

Pushing court matters hard, - meet with

earnest support and sympathy from the business

people who seem to be anxious to clean up

the bad mess that the court is in. I am

deciding everything promptly – at least.

Will remain at “Golden Gate” Hotel.

[page break]

-20th-

Court all day – call for jury drawing tomorrow.

“Santa Anna” Str. in port today – nothing new.

Tacoma people today on Steet: Joshua Pierce,

Wm Hayden, Sullivan, Jos. Easterday, Sam

Milligan, and others. Rob. Walker is up the

coast prospecting.

-21-

Drew Grand & Petit Jury today. Mr. M. Perl

late of Tacoma, acted as Commissioner. Trying

cases all day – repairing & painting court

room. -22-

Spoke with others at a meeting at Congregation

=al Church in mass meeting over attempt to

assassinate President McKinley.

-24th-

Called Grand Jury yesterday but only today

was I able to get jury empanelled & to work.

Trial jury tomorrow. Boat in today with papers

of 11th which state that Pres. McKinly is

better – hopes are that he will now recover.

[page break]

The “Golden Gate Hotel” may fairly be called a

telephone building – you can hear a man kiss

his wife in the fourth room down the hall from yours

A young – newly married couple occupy the room

next to me, -they occupy a rappy {squeaky} spring bed

just through a thin partition – and they make

me nervous! Stormy for last two days &

all vessels had to leave the front of Nome,- they

cut & run behind Sledge Island – they came

back today & are trying to get their passengers

aboard tonight. No wharf, and they have to go

out half a mile to the steamer on a scow or

in small boats – its pretty dangerous.

-25th-

Took dinner with Dr. Call tonight – Capt. Jarvis

& US. Marshal Frank Richards also present.

I am very fond of Capt. Jarvis; he is a loveable,

honest and competent man – I think those three

words cover about all that is necessary in a

man, - and he is the typical citizen – that he is

modest goes without saying – having the other virtu[es]

[page break]

-26th-

In calling trial jury I relied upon statements

of attorneys that a few civil cases would be ready

for trial – but not one is ready – all put them off

until Oct. 7th term begins. Today I made an

order peremptorily setting all cases at issue

for trial beginning Oct. 7th & have prepared a

“Trial Calendar” with about 200 cases thereon &

gave notice that all such cases must be ready for

trial & tried when called – or dismissed!

I am satisfied that many of the greatest “howlers”

at Judge Noyes have the least business and the

smallest interest in trying what they have. I am

very favorably impressed with some members of the

bar – Judge Johnson is a handsome, courtly man

- a gentleman & a fine lawyer. Judge Brinker as[?]

Sullivan is a good lawyer: Of the younger men

A. J. Daly – Judge Johnsons partner is a good lawyer

Steele, Frank A. – Ira D. Orton, E. R. Beeman & others

are very clever young men – Ex. Congressman Thos. J.

Geary, of S. F. is not a favorite with me, - he lacks

good manly character.

[page break]

-28th-

Heavy storm raging for two days past, but

quieting tonight. Large steamer in the

front of Nome – flags at half mast. Word

also received from Kaltag, by telegraph

that President McKinley died on 17th.

General expressions of sorrow from all

classes of citizens.

Profs. Mendanhall, Schrader &

Peters, U.S. Geological survey came

in yesterday from the Arctic coast. Mend=

=enhall, from jaundice, is as yellow as a

pumpkin. His bald head looks like the full

moon – Two men in landing from schooner

drowned in front of town on beach. Steamer

off town is Portland. Papers confirm McKinly’s

death on 14th There is a general feeling of grief

-29th-

Strs. “Kimball” & “St. Paul” also in port. Worked a

day on suit to enjoin special election in Nome

preparing opinion (see Book “2” continu[?]

[page break]

[Inside back cover]

5.00 1.00 1.00

cigars 3.75 baths .50 Laundry

5.00

Unalaska Waiters Water St. M [St. Michael] 5.00 Meals Nome 7.00

Alaska State Library - Historical Collections, PO Box 110571, Juneau AK

99811-0571

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http://library.alaska.gov/hist/fulltext/ASL-MS0107-Diary02-1901.htm