Alaska State Library - Historical Collections

ASL-MS0107-Diary03-1901-1902

James A. Wickersham diary, Sept. 30th., 1901 to Feb. 12th., 1902.

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1901-1902

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Sept. 30^th 1901.

Rendered opinion in Nome election

case this morning at 9 oclock. Granted

injunction against election. The Str

“Manuense” came in from St Micheal

today – Bevington, Torrance & McConnell

from Eagle City came in. Torrance is

going on outside – asked me to send

him an option on mining claims at

mouth of Wolf Creek – and suggested

that the amount be $5000 each in bond.

Capt. Hibbard of N.C.Co. at St Micheal

is in town, and an invited to take dinner

with him and others at Pioneer Mining Co.

this afternoon – Sentenced Morton to

U.S. penitentiary for 18 mo. for burglary.

Received invitation from committee to

deliver eulogy on President McKinley

at public mass meeting tomorrow after

noon. Will do so. Entertained Mrs.

Noyes, Mrs. Frost and Mr. Sternberg at an

informal dinner at Golden Gate Hotel

few evenings ago.

-Octo. 1^st-

Dinner last night at quarters of the

Pioneer Mining Co. was very pleasant.

[page break]

Present Capt. Hibbard, Mr. & Mrs.

Sam Milligan. Mr. Orton, attorney,

Mr. Chilberg, financial manager of

P. M. Co. Mr. Sodenberg, owner of the

“Hot Air” mine, and two other young men

connected with the Co. We had a fine

dinner, - the centerpeice – the peice de res

istance, was a great china platter in the

center of the table filled with the last cleanup

of the “Hot Air” mine, with the great nugget

recently found on “Discovery” claim, Anvil

Creek, in the center - $3800. in virgin gold.

Each guest was given a choice of nuggets

excluding the giant worth $1752.00

[sideways in margin:]

Decided Nome Election Case. Granted injunction.

Octo. 2^nd

Took dinner with Mr & Mrs Judge T. M. Reed,

at their home. A delightful home dinner

of A1 good cooking, and good cheer.

Delivered the Eulogy today on McKinly

at Congregational Church. It was a

splendid audience of patriotic citizens,

and a beautiful and touching memorial

service. I made my eulogy short – but

earnests. Father Jacquet and I were the

only speakers, but there were other exercises

of prayer, songs, &c. Stevens presided.

[page break]

-Octo. 3.rd-

Trial of U.S. v. Conant – from 9 oclock

in the morning until 11 oclock at night

-verdict of guilty – and a just one.

Entertained Capt. Cushing of Rev. Cutter

“Thetis” Capt. Jarvis, of Rev. service and

Capt. Hibbard, port captain N. C. Co. at St

Micheal, at dinner at Golden Gate Hotel.

Later attended a crushed – but pleasant

reception of Catholic parsonage or home

of Father Jacquet – a housewarming as

he is just completing and moving into

his new house near courthouse at the

head of Steadman Ave. I was handsomely

entertained, as I am everywhere I go in Nome.

-4^th-

Nothing from home yet, except that R. J.

Davis, our Tacoma friend is here: He says

he saw Mrs. W_ on Sept. 8^th at Tacoma &

that she was then expecting me & Darrell

both home soon, but he afterwards heard

that Darrell did not get there either. Mrs

W_ and Howard are boarding at Mrs John

Murrays. Davis took dinner with

me at “Golden Gate”. He goes back home

soon. Hard at work in court.

[page break]

-Octo. 5^th-

Sentence Conant and Campbell

this morning. Will give Conant light

sentence, for it is his first offence, so far

as the evidence shows: it was simply a

failure to stand up like a man – he yielded

to whiskey & spent his employers money.

he has a wife and child – but the other

fellow is a hardened pickpocket – a

thief – and I regret that I can only

give him 2 ½ years in the penitentiary

- for he deserves ten.

Civil cases are crowding hard

these days and I work in the office

and court room from 9 a.m. to 10 and

11 p.m. The only way to clean up the

business of this country is to “push hard”

and I intend to clean it up before spring.

Sentenced Conant to 3 years at McNeils Is.

“ Campbell to 2 ½ “ “ “ “

-Octo 6^th-

Str. “St Paul” is in and will sail this afternoon

for Seattle. Mrs. Noyes goes out on her, and

I have rented her furniture, beds, bedding &c

for the winter at $25.00 per month and paid

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her $50, being rent for October and

November. Mrs Frost also goes out.

When the grand jury met they began to investigate

the attack of “Whitecaps” who went about 60

strong on to a mining claim on Glacier Creek

in August, after I had gone to Unalaska, &

forcibly ejected certain “jumpers” from {a} claim

Someone notified Lindbloom “of the Pioneer

Co. who immediately left the country. It is

now whispered that a large sum of money

has been set apart to “square” McGinn

the deputy U.S. Pros. Atty, who is in charge

during Woods absence. It has been given

to a man very close to McGinn, and the in

=formation comes to me this day from Mar

=shal Richards that he is investigating

the matter & will have the truth about it, though

possibly not the evidence, in a few days.

I cannot believe that McGinn is guilty,

but his friend may be engaged in a confidence

game against the other parties.

Went down to see Mrs. Noyes off today –

also called at her rooms – She is greatly

distressed at the conditions which compel

[page break]

her to leave Nome under a cloud. She

could not restrain her tears, and at the

beach, when about to go aboard the lighter

to go out to the vessel, she all but broke down.

Mrs. Frost bears up much better – but it was

a distressing ordeal for each of them.

Six insane men sent out today on the

“Elihu Thomson”, prisoners go later.

Working today on opinion in Butler v Good

Enough Mining Co. an important mining case.

I am satisfied that it will go hard with Judge

Noyes, Dist. Atty. Woods, Frost, and possibly

Geary. McKenzie got six months on each

of two charges, Du Bose six months & the

facts against the others seem stronger.

Have this evening carefully examined the

reports of R. N. Stevens, U.S. Comr. & Recorder

in Nome for he year beginning July 23^rd 1900 &

ending June 30^th 1901. I find that his receipts

- the receipts of the office for such term were

just about equal to his disbursments

- he only turned in $483.00 in cash for the

year: his receipts were $22,895.65

“ disbursments “ 22,700.45!!

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He paid his wife and daughter about

$4000. for salary at $10.00 per day, and

also paid his wife $1200. rent for the front

room as recorders office: Coal, coal oil,

&c. &c. &c. are charged up to the government

& were evidently used at his house: All

clerks are paid at $10.00 per day – men

& women. It is a most extraordinary

case of wilfull and corrupt waste

of the public funds. I called in Goodrich

the foreman of the grand jury, tonight, and

showed him the reports & he was astounded.

Also consulted with Judge Brinker who

agreed with me that Stevens ought to be rem

=oved from office. I shall report the

matter to the Attorney General before the last

boat goes out.

-Octo. 7^th-

Gave Stevens, Comr. notice in writing

to file his report for the last quarter with

=in three days. He came personally & said

he could not do it for a week – I am

satisfied that he is waiting for the grand jury

to adjourn – Joe. Easterday – from Tacoma

wants to be appointed in Stevens place –

I told him today that I could not do it.

[page break]

I will keep closely after Stevens until he

files his report & then I will set it for an

examination before the court & call witnesses

& go into the good faith of his disbursments.

I am satisfied that he is, to use a mining

camp expression, “so crooked that his blood

only circulates once a year”.

Civil cause of Stenger v. Pitman – first on trial

calendar tried today – verdict for defendants – jury.

-9^th-

Trial of Golding v. Hensel. No 289.

on trial for two days. Town lot case

and bitterly fought. The lawyers have

taken me at my word about pushing

the business of the court and are pushing

me. I am working from 9 in the morning

until 10 or 11 every night. Grand jury

has returned a number of indictments one

against the Glacier Creek rioters – Jafet

Lindeberg, J. W. Griffin, the Prices & others.

Lindeberg is one of the original “Anvil Creek

discoverers. Griffin is a prominent lawyer &

mine owner, and all the other parties are also

rich mine owners. They are accused of

having driven the “jumpers” off a claim

[page break]

a day or two before I left here for Unalaska

in Aug. In doing so they went at night

armed and masked, and some nervous

fool – as usual – shot one of the jumpers

and now they are all before the court on a

very serious charge, - all but Lindeberg.

As soon as the Grand jury met & the matter first

brought before it – someone told Lindeberg.

The last lighter with passengers had gone

out, but Lindeberg hastily put on his coat

went to the safe took a “poke” of gold dust,

hired a small boat and caught the “Queen”

just as she hoisted anchor – and went down

to San Francisco to spend the winter. The

others have given bond in the sum of $5000. each

to appear for trial. Wright, the defaulting

postmaster of Nome is also under same

bond today to answer for default of $4000.

Lot of other indictments – it will take us

two weeks or more to try these criminal

cases.

-11^th-

“Portland” came in yesterday from St Micheal

and went out to Seattle. No other boat in.

Light fall of snow today – begins to look

like winter. Tried case of U.S v.

[page break]

Stockslager, for forgery – he issued a

forged check for $100, and signed the

name of Cabell Whitehead, Pres. of the

Alaska Banking & Safe Dep. Co. He is

the son of the Stockslager who used to

be Comr. Genl. Land office under the

first Cleveland Administration. I met

his father in 1887 – I think.

-12-

The steamers “Roanoke” and “Valen

cia” are in port this morning. The

scare about the loss of the “Oregon” is

over – she reached the Sound safely.

I received two letters from Debbie –

- and also two from Darrell to her.

Howard has been sick with typhoid

fever – she is not coming in. I am

satisfied to have her stay with her boys

as much as I want her with me. I

also received a letter from George T. Reid,

containing my salary vouchers for the

months of July, & August 1901.

Mr. Fink, attorney, also came in : he tells

me that he saw the attorney General who said

I was to remain at Nome – in the event that

Judge Noyes is removed – for the winter certainly

[page break]

Darrell is doing well – spent a week at

Buffalo, writes to his mother regularly & sent

her an account of his expenses to Buffalo.

It shows that he is yet careful, open and

honest. I pray to God that he will always

remain so. Well. I am in for the winter

alone – hard work, day and night – work –

work. But it is allright. I am anxious

to do my work good and make a clean good

record, - one which I and my family can

always look back upon with satisfaction.

-13^th-

The accounts of Marshal Richards were

filed with me for approval last evening.

Upon examination I find that for the time

when we were at Unalaska he has filed

a voucher signed by N. Gray, agent of

the A. C. Co. for $119.00 for board and lodging.

During that time I also boarded with Gray,

ate at the table with the Marshal, occupied

larger and more expensive apartments and

only $59. I sent for him & called

his attention to this matter. He withdrew

the account & yesterday filed it anew, but

with this item left out. He has still

left in the account, however, three other

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items as follows:

Board and lodging Lawrence Hotel 12 days $7. = $84.00

“ “ “ Golden Gate “ 16 “ $7 = 112.60

“ “ “ “ “ 14 “ $7 = 98.00

“ “ “ “ “ 17 “ $7. = 119.00

When the account was further examined I

saw at once that these items were “padded”.

I spoke to Harris (of Harris & Daggett, prop

=rietors of the Golden Gate Hotel) – He informed

me that in no case did they charge even

a transient guest more than $15.00 per week

for lodging and $15.00 per week for board, -

- that he had signed many “padded” vouchers

for officials here, &c. &c. Have written

the Marshal pointing out these excessive

charges – his oath attached that he had

actually paid them in lawful money, &

have asked him to quietly withdraw his

account & file a correct one. Have

shown his account with “padded” vouchers

to Capt. Jarvis and P. C. Sullivan.

Have this day removed R. N. Stevens

& A. K. Wheeler, Comrs. & J. P. of Nome.

And appointed Thomas M. Reed in

their stead. Bond & oath filed : Approved.

[page break]

Was invited to a dinner party last evening

by Mr. Daggett, at Golden Gate Hotel to meet

his wife, who arrived on the boat yesterday.

Present Mr. & Mrs Daggett, Mr & Mrs. Bush

Mr & Mrs. Dorman & Miss Dorman.

Was invited to join a box party at the theater

(“Standard”) tonight, but cannot do so.

Invited by Mr and Mrs. Turner of the N. C. Co.

The Marshal has fixed his account by striking

out all the objectionable and “padded” accounts

and I have approved his office accounts.

-17^th-

Have been working night and day –

go on the bench at 9 in the morning &

hold night sessions. The trial of U.S

v. Helen Wagner ended with verdict at 1 oclock

this morning – every night it is from 9 to 11,

before I get through hearing cases.

At last though I have gathered minute

by minute time to write to Debbie, send her

letter, pictures, papers &c. Also send

her my vouchers signed & receipted

for each f month from October to June 1902

inclusive, & also powers of attorney to

draw the money on each. Send them

[page break]

all out by Joe Easterday today on

Str. “Senator”. There is much turmoil

just now by people going out on the

last boats. Everybody wants something

done – nearly each passenger is a litigant

a juror, or in some way interested in

something in court, - the taking of testimony

goes on night & day before referees & everything

is in a hubbub, and hurry – when the last

boat goes then we can settle down to a

regular routine and things will lose

the irregular and unsatisfactory character

as at present.

Marshal Richards is “ugly” about his “padded”

accounts, and seeks to get even with the Golden

Gate Hotel people by taking the juries to a

downtown restaurant to eat, - at a saving

of twenty five cents per meal. As the change

would involve sending the juries through the

crowded streets, filled with every class (including

the criminals and their friends and sympathizers),

and would take juries away from the eyes of the

court I will not allow it. Still the incident

shows the Marshals disposition – I am making

the record on him & fixing him so he cannot

hurt anyone as much as he may try

[page break]

-19-

The “Queen” came in yesterday evening

Three letters from Home – Howard is all

right – but not able to come on voyage

This is said to be the last boat – received

letters from Gay, about U.S. Sup. Ct. Rep.

He sends me his set, & digests, & the

Atty General will replace them to him

from Washington. Also letter from

Senator Foster asking that young

Distin & Reber be kept in Clerks

office. Yesterday & today trying

cases of Hemen v. Wild Goose Co. &

Steen & Wild Goose Co. over #14 & 15

on Ophir Creek – important & interesting cases.

Had some trouble day before yesterday

to keep the Grand Jury from indicting Judge

Noyes. Fink, lawyer, who is one of his

most persistent pursuers came before

the Grand Jury & had witnesses &c and

but for the firm stand taken by McGinn

it is quite probably there would

have been an indictment. It would

have been unfortunate at this time – he

is not here & is already on trial in S. F.

[page break]

-21^st-

Went out to Fort Davis last night

to take dinner with Dr. & Mrs. Jerrald,

Post surgeon. Present Major Booth

Lt. Massey – Wm. Sternberg, Mr.

Mrs. Jerrald is a cousin of President

Cleveland – Dr. Jerrald is a

pleasant gentleman. Had a

splendid dinner – although the cook

was drunk. We went down to the

post in their buckboard - & back.

Took lunch yesterday also

with Capt. Hibbard – Capt. Hanson

& Dr Call Capt. D. H. Jarvis.

Trial of U.S v J W Griffin begins today.

Sentence Helen Wagner, larceny, and

Guy C. Stockslager, forgery today.

-22-

Well, the terrible strain is about

over. The “Queen” – the last boat of the

season is now ready to sail – all my

mail is aboard – all those who have for

a month been making my life a burden

are aboard, and we can now begin to set

cases for regular trial, and take our time

in presenting them to the jury. I am

[page break]

utterly worn out, for I have been worked

like a slave day and night. In the case

of U.S v. Helen Wagner, I have had a hard

time of it on the motion for a new trial. The

defence filed a lot of affidavits, including

one by Manthei, the prosecuting witness,

who retracted all the evidence upon which

he percued the conviction of the defendant.

She robbed him in the Gold Belt Saloon rooms

while he occupied her bed with her – she

is, of course, a prostitute and dance hall

performer of the lowest type. All of her

companions in infamy gathered to her aid

and flooded the court with false affidavits

on the motion for a new trial: I sent out the

Marshal, rounded them up, put them on the

witness stand, and sifted their stories to the

bottom. I instructed the prosecuting Attorney

to arrest Manthei for perjury which was

instantly done – ordered the motion for a

new trial denied, and sentenced the woman

to 3 years at the McNeils Is. penitentiary.

The only face that class of people recognize

is the ability of the law to punish, and a

lagging sprit in that respect is a positive

encouragement to their crimes. They

[page break]

live by violating the laws, and I am not

going to be too lenient with them.

Case of U.S. v. Griffin on trial for

two days – submitted to the jury tonight.

He is accused of being a party to the riot

at Glacier Creek on Aug 15, 1901, - he is

a lawyer, a rich mine owner and – I

think a very good man – yet I am afraid

he “stole the watermelon”. I feel a great

deal of sympathy for him, however, and if

the jury find him guilty I intend to exercise

the power of mercy vested in me by the last

section of the Alaska Criminal Code (Sec.

481) which permits the court to impose a

lower penalty than that fixed by law, where

it appears to the court that the one fixed is

too severe. The minimum penalty for the

crime of riot, with which he is charged, is

3 years in the penitentiary!! Such

a penalty in such a case as his would

be a positive wrong – worse than the

offense with which he stands charged.

Well, I have sent out my mail for

the winter – including my accounts for

expenses to Oct. 31^st. – I’ll have an

eight months rest – from hearing from the

[page break]

outside world, but plenty of hard work

here. Mr. Hubbard, attorney went out

on the “Queen” – he said he would soon be in

Washington D.C. and would call on

the Atty General about Nome matters.

He and Capt. Jarvis and Cabell Whitehead

of the Alaska Bank ought to get the

Dept. right on expenses here. Many

of the most outrageous bills are yet coming

in, - a young assistant to the Assistant

Dist. Atty. presented his accounts today

for instant approval – with $124. per

month for board and lodging. I told

him that I only paid $100. – that the govern

=ment could much better afford to give him

the best room and board at the best hotel

in town – this kind of accounts – even “padded”,

two or three times their real sum, have

been the rule heretofore – no wonder the Clerks

funds are exhausted and he is $12,000.00

behind in payment of the expenses of

the court. I have started in to get the

expenditures of the court within the income

and all such accounts will be dis

=allowed = in a short time only honest

accounts will even be presented!

[page break]

23^rd

Jury in U.S. v. Griffin could not

agree, and after some 15 hours in

the jury room I discharged them –

They stood 6. to. 6. Trial of Ophir

Creek mining cases resumed.

-24^th-

Granted continuance until next July

in U.S. v. Griffin. I did not know how much

these people were scared until Griffin nearly

gave way at the relief afforded by this disposition

of his case. His eyes filled with tears, he

could not speak, - a burden was lifted!

It is a good thing for the peace of the country to

at least scare such people, - but the

suggestion of the C. C. A. G. & C. in the case
finding McKenzie guilty, that it was a

surprise to that court that the people here

did not take the law into their own hands,

is, to a certain extent, an excuse and the

cause for the Glacier Creek riots, - but

this court will not give countenance to

riot, - still under the circumstances

if one of them should be found guilty I would

apply the merciful powers vested in my by Sec 481.

Crim Code 1899 - & give him only a fine.

[page break]

-25^th-

After several days hearing, at intervals

the cases of Steen v. Wild Goose Co. &

Hemen v. Griffith, Rice & the Wild Goose

Co. is at last closed & submitted.

Case of U.S. v. Till, Price, Glacier Creek

riot case, begun today – jury case.

-27^th-

Sunday – Was married 21 years ago today

Went to office to work, - to prepare opinion

in Ophir Creek mining cases, but was so near

=ly down with sore neck that I could not

work – and went out for the first time to

walk. We went north up Dry Creek &

climbed to the summit of the mountains back

of Anvil Mt. thence to the Anvil itself,

back home in the evening along the line

of the Wild Goose Ry. from Anvil Creek

to Nome. Wrote a long good letter

this evening to Debbie telling her that

I love her more now than when I first

took her into my arms 21 years ago.

-28^th-

Decided case of Steen v. Wild Goose

Min. Co. – for defendant. U.S. vs

Price tried – verdict guilty.

[page break]

-29^th-

Have decided the case of Hemen v.

Griffith, Rice, Wild Goose Co & others,

involving another Ophir Creek {mining} case.

The attorneys now tell me that the case

decided yesterday involved more than

half a million dollars. I am pleased

to know that mine owners now express a

feeling of safety over property rights &

do me the honor to say that investments can

now be made here with assurance of fair

protection. Judge Noyes seems never

to have rendered even one mining opinion

and but one mining case was tried by him

in the more than a year that he was here

Yesterday I dismissed all the indictments

in the now famous Glacier Creek riot cases.

Judge Noyes Left Nome on Aug. 14 {12}, 1901,

after signing the most contradictory and

extraordinary batch of orders while out

on the steamer, - drunk, it is said by his

enemies, - certainly the orders were – and

the result was a rising of people who went

out to the richest mines on the Glacier Creek

masked and armed and drove off all the

[page break]

“jumpers” and warned them to leave the country.

They were arrested – at least half a dozen

men who were supposed to be among the

“rioters” were indicted and Griffin &

Till Price have been tried. The jury in each

case disagreed – so much prejudice &

exists against the Noyes – Stevens regime

that it is impossible to convict these men

for a violation of their injunctions or a

contempt of their court, - they ought

not to be severely dealt with because the

conditions were such as to drive good

citizens to acts of lawlessness. So after

the failure to convict the first two I felt

justified in dismissing all the remaining

indictments and did it! It is to the great

advantage of this region to put that blot

on the jurisprudence judiciary of America

behind us, - hide it from sight as soon

as possible, and open a brighter and

better page in the history of the Nome

region. It has fallen to my fortune

to close the unfortunate page and

open the brighter and better one, and

if God gives me the strength of body to do the

work I will not fail to do my best.

[page break]

-Oct 30^th-

Trying one jury case per day – the

overgorged docket is rapidly lessening

and I can now begin to see the coming

of easier days. So far it has been

hard constant work – night & day.

Still today I am more than repaid

for it all. Telegrams, letters, and

a petition signed by every member

of the Nome bar go out in addition

to those already gone on other boats

asking that I be permanently stationed

in this district. Every business house

here – all the big mercantile, mining

and transportation companies have

joined in the request, and have made

it forcible and urgent. I really feel

highly honored by this community &

secretly yet I hope modestly congratulate

myself that I have succeeded so well

in securing the good will of every interest

here whose good will is creditable.

Took dinner with Mr. Albert Fink

tonight – met his sister, and also

[page break]

Mr. C. D. Lane and his son Louis.

Mr. Lane is the wealthiest mining man

in Alaska – and the most original

and forceful man. He is a strong

character – brave, blunt & honest.

He is a hard worker, and has done more

to prospect this region, and locate and

work its valuable mines than all

other interests together. His son Louis

is a real chip off the old block.

Mr. Lane seems pleased with my

efforts to bring order out of chaos &

has taken a strong stand in favor

of securing action from Washington

to keep me here. He spoke very

freely about it and I am sure that no

effort will be spared along that line.

The “Arctic” left for Puget Sound today

& the “Barbara Hernster” leaves tonight

with the Lane people – the last boats

of the season. Not until next

June or July will we have another.

[page break]

-Oct. 31.-

Ten Years ago Harry Ball was the

president of the Bank of the Republic

at Tacoma, Wash : his wife a showy

woman rode in a showy carriage

while a negro in regimentals sat

on the front seat : they maintained a

rich and showy home on the hill

near the “Oakland Addition” which was

his real estate speculation, and they

cut quite a figure in financial and

social circles. Yesterday he begged

me to loan him five dollars (which I

did promptly) as he was in actual want

of food. Verily there are surprising

changes in the great west.

It was impossible to obtain assistance

from counsel today to try a single case

by jury. Gave a dozen of them two

days to present cases for trial or they

were informed they would be dismissed.

Have had a talk today with Milroy,

whom I have appointed Comr. in the

Fairhaven precinct, vice Noyes, removed.

[page break]

I gave Milroy and other Comrs. fair

warning that only necessary and reas

=onable expenses would be allowed

in their accounts. He had already

employed a Clerk of Court to go

with him there – upon my statement

that only such sum as was actually

necessary to procure clerical assistance

in recording what he could not record

he gave up – very reluctantly – the idea

of the clerk. Gave each new

Comr. same warning.

Today consolidated Nome, Bon

=anza, Bluff City precincts and all of

Port Clarence precinct lying on the

watershed flowing into Bering Sea, as the

Nome Precinct. Thomas M. Reed, Comr.

Consolidated Kugarok and Kuzitrin

under Lars Gunderson, Comr.

Consolidated Council & Clinik

under Capt Ferguson, Comr.

Consolidated Port Clarence, Agiapuk.

and Yak, under C. S. Henton.

I hope by this means to reduce the expenses

and to turn balances into Clerks office for

support of this court.

[page break]

-Nov. 3-

Sunday – Worked on opinion in the matter

of Municipal court of Nome all day

- until 3 p.m. – then went out to Ft. Davis

& paid my respects to Major Booth

& called at Dr. Jerraulds.

-Nov 4-

Rendered opinion holding Municipal

Court of Nome to be without existence,

which finally tears Judge R. N. Stevens

loose from the public teat which

has long and plentifully supplied him

with public funds. He has been the

brains of the Noyes regime, - and has

long presided at the financial orgies

connected with the expenditure of money

through the courts. He has received a

greater sum than anyone else, but

as yet is not caught in the vise. McKenzie

& Noyes & he were the trio – the guiding

spirits of the most remarkable system

of speculating in mines through the

influence – power of a corrupt system

that has ever been known in American

jurisprudence: McKenzie went to jail for

a year – Noyes for __

[page break]

-Nov. 6^th-

Have just had the unhappy experience of

passing on the sanity of Rev. Father Jacquet

- pastor of the Catholic church here. For

some time he has been growing steadily worse

until he is now at that point where to longer

allow him to go at large means to invite

dissolution of both body and mind. After

hearing an array of medical and other

witnesses I held him to be insane – in the

gentlest language possible – but made

the formal order so that his restraint would

be legal. His unfortunate condition has

exacted general sympathy – I very greatly

regretted to be the judge in his case, but

considered it the only kind thing to be done

under the evidence.

Hearing cases every day – a jury

case a day – and others at odd times.

-9^th-

Sullivan & Mrs. Mehn took dinner with me

at Golden Gate Monday evening: I took dinner with

Marshal Richards & Forrest, Tuesday – Sternberg –

Last night I took dinner with Mrs. Mehn [?]

who is a typical Bohemian – present

[page break]

Sullivan P. C. also long Mike Sullivan

Darling, who is a County Meath man & a

typical jolly, witty son of Erin, &

A. J. Daly – familiarly known in that

circle as “Marcus Aurelius” Daly –

It was a distinctly Bohemian dinner.

Tonight I take dinner with Clerk

Steel and some of his friends at

their bachelor quarters.

Very busy in court every day, – in trials

of jury cases.

-10^th-

Took dinner last night with H. G. Steel

clerk of this court at his bachelor quarters.

Present Steel, Reber and Parkinson. The

latter is the bright and versatile editor of

the “Nome News”, - he was for a long time

connected with the Seattle P. I. and then

on the Tacoma Ledger. After a good dinner

and a pleasant evening we went, - upon

special invitation, to a social session

of the Arctic Brotherhood in their new hall

in the old A. E. store. There was a large

crowd of the most clever and decent

“fellows around town” there, and beer,

[page break]

cigars and good fellowship all intermixed,

songs, recitations, music, boxing matches

clog dancing and speeches enlivened the

time and I enjoyed a pleasant – rough –

evening. Was persuaded to become

a member of the A. B. which I will

at their next regular meeting. It is

the only distinctive Alaska organization

and I have so often been asked to join

that I have at last consented.

Was surprised upon returning to the

hotel to find my room lighted with

electricity – the current was first

turned on in Nome today –

Am working long and diligently on

the case of Price v McIntosh which

is over a very valuable gold mine &

involves at least one very important

principle of law upon which I can

find no aid from authorities.

-11^th-

Trial by jury- Kimball v. Miller.

Verdict for plaintiff, - dismissed

other cases for want of prosecutions.

Working hard every day & night.

[page break]

-17-

Joined the Arctic Brotherhood last night

- judge Reed & others – Daly, Rinehart, &c.

also joined. After that went to Hotel Lawrence

to Geise’s birthday function – dancing[?] & cards

Simply called and paid my respects to Mr &

Mrs. Geise – the crainds[?], &c. and left

During this week have been trying jury

cases – one a day – and at nights &

odd hours also trying equity & other cases

submitted to me. Prepared an opinion

in the very interesting case involving the

“California Fraction”, in which I had

to lay down the rule – for the first time in

the courts, as to the form of placer

claims. It is an important case

& I gave it much study. I derived

no aid whatever from briefs of counsel

& studied the matter out for myself.

Wrote to Debbie & sent letter out

on 15^th by dog team mail – do not expect

any letters in here before January – or

possibly February- Mail starts out

every two weeks by dog team & when

they once begin to come will probably

reach here in that way & that often.

[page break]

The float ice in Bering sea has

been off shore now for two or three days

- great fields of it – as far as you can

see. It is called the “pack” is composed

of ground up masses of ice and mush

ice, - not yet hardened into blocks.

Today it seems to be floating eastward,

but it may either be carried to sea or

piled on shore – just owing to the

way the wind blows. When it is once

pushed against the land and then

freezes it will stay for the winter.

-18^th-

Beautiful fall weather. We have

had some wind and snow, but the

general weather has been clear, cold

and crisp – Not bad at all.

Am getting to the bottom of the first

calendar of 100 cases – either

tried, or dismissed – nearly all tried

for I have only dismissed 5 or 6 –

just enough worthless cases to scare

all others into trial.

This evening –sun set at 3 oclock

Saw a beautiful mirage at Sledge Is.

The atmospheric conditions made the island

[page break]

look just like a great potato on

the surface of the sea – like this.

[sketch of island]

[captions of drawing:]

Sledge Is.

Cape of

mountains

Each end of Sledge Island turned up

like a sled runner, and even a faint

line of light could be seen between

it and the surface of the sea: it seemed

as if it were a great potato shaped

object floating on the surface. It

recalled the mirages along the Yukon

river between Circle City and Ft. Yukon.

Weather so far this fall fine – not

colder than 4° above zero. The ice pack

has gone out some distance for we do not

feel the swell of the sea, - only a few

inches. Open water along shore & no

ice – probably six inches of snow.

Traveling is bad, though, and will not

be good before January. Dogs are at

a premium now – they make the only

good team in this country! But for them

winter traveling would be nearly prohibited –

with them it is the best season of the year.

[page break]

Dozens of horses were abandoned here

in Nome by miners who were leaving

the country on the last boats out: the

poor animals wandered around starving

until humane people shot them to

prevent their further suffering. They

could not have been wintered for anything

like a fair or reasonable price – not for

their value in the spring – Not so with

dogs, who can and do work for months

one half of the year.

-22-

Took dinner with Capt. J. E. Hanson

Mgr. A.C. Co (N.C.Co) for this region.

Also present W. A. Sternberg, Schofield,

and Judge Crane. We had the finest

dinner I have had since coming to Nome,

and then until 12 oclock over cigars we

talked Pacific Ocean currents, China

Japan, Mexico and Central America, &c.

Capt. Hanson is a delightful host and

a well read man: he has traveled extensively

- and to advantage. Two days ago

Saml & Mrs. Milligan & P. C. Sullivan

took dinner with me at the hotel.

Dance every night at hotel ball room,

[page break]

but I never attend. Father Jacquet

the Catholic priest was started this morn

=ing to Holy Cross. He has been growing

worse – it would cost the government

$5000 to keep him here until spring

so, the fathers desiring it, we sent him

to Holy Cross mission for treatment.

-23^rd-

For some days we have been engaged

in a “housecleaning”; We have taken

the dockets and beginning with Case

No 1, called every case, and ascertained

its condition. About a hundred

dead ones have been dismissed, many

others dismissed rather than go to trial,

and the rest are now segregated into

three calendars: 1^st Motion calendar,

where they will be kept until ready

for trial: 2^nd Jury trial calendar

and : 3^rd Equity calendar & Begin

=ning with next Monday cases

at issue are set for two weeks

ahead, which will wind up every

case now ready for trial : except

three or four Admiralty cases. By

this method of sorting out we are

[page break]

now able to tell the exact condition

of the courts business – for the

first time since its organization.

The business is now so systematized

that no further difficulty will arise

- as fast as cases are at issue

they will be set on the trial docket

for the next term for trial, and

thus the docket will {be} arranged

from time to time, and will always

show just what is ahead of the

court. The bar has given me

every assistance and the attorneys

seem pleased to see order issuing

out of chaos, - for chaos it

certainly was.

A more beautiful winter month I never

saw than this one. Last night

was the coldest of the season – it

was 2° below zero at Courthouse

but other thermometers showed

-10° below. The sky is clear &

the stars shine brightly – the moon

rides high – but the sun is going lower

each day.

[page break]

Give dinner at Golden Gate

Hotel this evening to Ira D. Orton

attorney for Pioneer Mining Co.

also to Magnus Kjelsberg, resident

manager, Charles Johnson, his

assistant, and to Louis Lane,

son of C. D. Land, and in the

absence of his father the manager

of the Wild Goose Min. Co.

-Sunday 24^th-

Had a very pleasant evening with

Orton, Louis Lane, Kjelsberg & Johnson

last night. Dinner served was not good

but our talk till 9 oclock was one

that interested them as well as me.

Louis Lane has been in this region since

’98 – so has Kjelsberg, and the other

two since ’99. Lane is a young

man of strong force of character,

and his travels along the Arctic shore

around Kotzebue Sound are interesting

- he tells me one surprising fact –

that Mongolian pheasants are native

along the Noatak river! He has killed

them there & has seen others. He

[page break]

reminded me last night about

our proposed trip to Berings straits

and we arranged to start after

the first of the year. He is enthusiastic

over the trip, and I am delighted.

M. Kjelsberg is a partner of Jafet

Lindebergs, in the Pioneer Mining

Co. They both speak Finn, Lapp

and some other Scandinavian tongue

and are strong vigorous men –

of good character. Johnson is

their countryman, 6 feet 2 inches

tall and a good vigorous character.

The men who located the rich Anvil

Creek mines are of that independent

vigorous character that they were

able – notwithstanding their foreign

birth and education (or want of it), to

fight the most astounding, vigorous

and treacherous attack known in

American jurisprudence, and to

so wisely and bravely conduct it as

to eventually win and preserve their

wealth. In view of the wolfish attack

made upon them the insinuating and

treacherous conditions which surround

[page break]

them and their lack of knowledge

of our laws and customs, their

character become stands out in

bold relief and commands the

respect of both friend and foe.

The old Norse sea blood was

courageous and honest, and

to it we owe much that is good

in our national character.

I am to take dinner tomorrow

evening with Mr. A. J. Daly, and

P. C. Sullivan, - there will also be

present Mrs. Meiggs and her daughter.

-Nov. 27^th-

Attended the fashionable ball given by

the Ladies Guild, Episcopal Church,

at the Golden Gate Hall last night.

It was a swell affair, and I wore my

dress suit – only to find that it is too

tight – have just sent it down to have

an inch more space put in both the

vest and trousers. The hall was

filled with ladies and gentlemen dressed

in the height of fashion: the rooms were warm

bright, and nicely draped & it was a very

[page break]

interesting and pretty affair. There

was a grand crush, and there were more

than 300 persons present. I did not

dance – but I wished for Debbie as

I am sure she would have enjoyed it.

Grinding in court every day – think

I can discharge the jury in another

week. Am obliged to prepare new

rules of court at once, for it is very

troublesome to do business under

the old – the lawyers will not hasten

the trial of cases, and the court cannot.

-Nov. 30^th-

Am startled today by the theft of my

mail. Had prepared letters to Debbie

& Howard, also had placed copies of

printed opinions in “California Fraction”

case in envelopes and addressed them

to Senator Foster & others. Just at

10 oclock – or a minute or two after,

the bailiff, Adam Johnson, deputy in

the Marshals office, came & said “10 oc

-lock”. The letters all lay on top of the

books I intended to take to the bench

with me – I pushed them off & he

[page break]

picked up the books and went out of

my private room, through the

library & clerks room, into the

courtroom. Closing my roll-top

desk, and leaving the letters lying

on an outside sliding shelf, I foll

=owed him, leaving the door open.

Just previously Jeffery, my stenograp

=her had gone out into the Marshals

office to copy a letter, and was gone

not more than 5 minutes. During

this time, as I now think, the letters were

stolen by someone who entered the

private room from the clerks room.

As I went through that room

on my way to the courtroom P. C.

Sullivan was standing near the west

side of the room, his back towards the

door of my private room, talking

with a man whose face was that

way & who saw me go out & saw

the door open & saw Jeffery go out

into the Marshals office. Upon inquiry

Sullivan could not be sure who that man

was: Adam Johnson went into the

[page break]

court room first – I next, then

Bosqui[?], bailiff, and in a minute

came Sullivan, leaving the room

deserted except, possibly, as to this

man. My mail lay open to any

one who went into my private room,

and in a moment it disappeared.

No one took it, of course, without

a motive, and there are but two men

in Nome with such a motive, and

one of them was personally present

in the clerks room just about

that moment, and the other had

a confederate there. Either of them

might very much desire to have

possession of my letters – neither

of them got any thing of value

in the letters stolen. Luckily my mail

was divided into two parts – the part

stolen only contained the two letters to

Debbie and Howard, and official

envelopes, each containing a copy

of the printed opinion. Still it is

startling to be notified thus forcibly that

I am to be subjected to that sort of espionage

while in my duties {acting in my capacity}

as judge. Will make

[page break]

such quiet inquiry as I can to find

out who stole them, and will be more

careful hereafter. The letters were stolen

by one who has been prevented from

continuing a career of theft of government

funds, and who fears further exposure

to the Attorney General and probably

a prosecution – which he richly des

=erves. However I sent out all the

necessary documents in his case to the

Attorney General by special carrier

on the Barbara Hurnster.

P. C. Sullivan told me tonight the S. C. Hen

=ton, whom I appointed Comr. at Teller, is

going wrong already. Three days after he reach

=ed there a sporting woman also came & is

now his clerk. Sullivan, Gordon & Richards

are examining into the matter & if he continues

or complaint is made will remove him.

-Dec 2^nd-

The more I consider the matter of the

theft of my mail the more I am inclined to

reduce the number of suspects. Johnson

the deputy was for a year the clerk of R. N.

Stevens, and both he and Stevens were in the

[page break]

court room and in the clerks room & it

was possible for either of them to get the

letters. I regret even to have a suspicion

against Johnson on account more of his

wife than him. She is a pleasant true

little woman, and it is a pity to hurt her with

a suspicion – without proof. As to Stevens I

feel satisfied that he knows who stole them,

but so far we have no positive proof against

him. Have told the facts to Strong of the Nugget

and Parkinson of the News, & both will give a

short statement of the facts. It is too bad that

this camp cannot be raised out of the corrupt

slough of despond! The people here are all

right, - they are honest and clearheaded

- it is the official class which is so

dastardly cowardly and corrupt. It

must be cleaned out, and replaced by

honest men. Am much relieved at the

strong indignation expressed by all kinds

of people about the theft, - the papers will

condemn it, and it may be the means

of making the thief more unpopular – if

such a thing is possible. One prominent

citizen warned me to beware of personal

violence from Stevens as he has been uttering

threats, but he is too cowardly to face me

[page break]

-Dec. 6^th-

Attended the officers ball last night at

Fort Davis: We went down in the post

sleds, and had a most enjoyable even

=ing. Present Major Booth, Lts. Massie

and Knudson, Dr. Jerrauld: Mr & Mrs

Strong : Turner. Mrs. Crane, Miss

Fink, & quite a pleasant party.

The roads were splendid & it was

a beautiful night & an enjoyable ball

- although I did not dance – could

only play wallflower & smoke.

In view of the theft of my mail I

have determined to quietly and one

at a time so as not to excite comment

remove from the public service such

men as are held in here by bad influences

Not long ago I caused the Marshal to

remove young Cody, bailiff – the son of

the detective & intimate with Stevens.

This afternoon I intend to cause

the clerk to remove Herren & appoint

honest Sam. Taylor, in his place &

then in a few days I will insist

[page break]

upon the Marshal removing every

body from the court house except

actual employees. Mitchell & others

room here & keep up a bad atmos

=phere – it must now be cleaned

out. Later I will make other changes.

-6^th-

My stolen letters turned up today

- they had been placed in an unused

letter press – George put them there

evidently, and forgot it. ? ? ?

I have been very much chagrined by the

unfortunate stupidity of the loss of my letters

& their finding. More or less suspicion

had arisen in my mind against persons

who now seem to be innocent, and I feel

as though I had done each of them a

personal rank injury. I have de=

=termined, though, to keep the matter

perfectly quiet & let it die out – the

public has forgotten it, and it will

do no good to announce the fact – it

only shows how certain one ought to be

before accusing another of crime

[page break]

One effect of finding the letters is that

I have determined not to permit the

clerk to dismiss Herron – although

I am drawn to this conclusion more from

regard for his wife and child who are

here with him, than from any other cause.

Have explained to Sam. Taylor that I can

=not secure his appointment just now

- I will have him appointed when another

change is made in the clerks office.

On Thursday evening last I took

dinner at Capt. Hansons, with Mrs. Meiggs

her three daughters, Capt. H. Mr and Mrs. Crane

and Mr. Fink and his sister, in celebration

of the announcement of the marriage of

Fink and Miss Laura Meiggs –

- It’s a fair trade!

On a Friday evening Mr. & Mrs. H. E.

Shields, my old Seattle friend, took

dinner with me at the Hotel. Am at

work on rules of court, hearing cases

both day and evening, writing opinions

between times and reading “The Wandering

Jew” after retiring for the night

[page break]

-11^th-

Hearing cases night and day. Am about

done with the jury and will dismiss it this

week. Heard argument in the case of

Brace v. Solner, Treas. being the fight

between the town Council and the School

board, last night. It is a regular

snow blizzard now – warm, snowing

and blowing. The snow is drifting high

& it looks as if it were regular Bering Sea

weather. Small houses are being covered

- the ice is being jammed high on the beach

by a southeast wind. It is all the effect

of the warm Japanese current breezes in

opposition to the Arctic winds & weather

meeting here at the coast.

-14^th-

Took dinner last evening with Mr &

Mrs. Daggett who also entertained

Mrs. Muther, Mrs. Lloyd, Mr.

and Mary, of “Marys Igloo”, on the

Kuzitrim river. Mary is a typical

Eskimo woman – 24 years old, rather

taller than the average, coal black hair,

clean & well combed, and neatly dressed in

[page break]

black dress: She was born on the

site of Nome, and said her parents were

buried about where the A.C. Co store is:

She has not been in town – never before.

Her surprise at telephone, the new

fire engine tc &c. is childishlike and simple.

Yet she sat at our table – and the dinner

was rather swell, though we were not in

full dress – and did not once make a

mistake. Every thing was done with

perfect dignity and modesty. She

told me of a poor little orphan boy whose

legs were frozen & bent under him – I

asked her to send him in to me & I would

get him in the hospital. One is driven

to be better by the fact, of which she never

speaks, that last year when so many

of her tribe died with an epidemic she

went from place to place & gathered 14

orphan children into her own home

and cared for them. She has nursed,

rescued & aided more sick and

despairing white miners than any other

person near here, - the papers have given

her a good notice, and her visit to Nome

[page break]

will long be remembered by her.

-15-

Good dinner with Daly & Sullivan

last night, in honor of Albert Finks

marriage which takes place on the

18^th It was a dinner party of his

bohemian friends to bid him farewell.

We adjourned at 11 oclock to come

back to the courthouse and receive

the verdict in a fiercely fought suit

wherein Daly & Sullivan were on one side

& Fink and Orton on the other. The jury

decided for Fink & Ortons client. The

strong north wind has almost cleared

the ice from along shore. It only extends

out a ¼ mile – then the sea is clear.

24 hours ago the great ice sheet was

extended as far out as the eye could

reach – now the black sea water only

Wrote letters to Debbie, and also

to Jarvis & Senator Foster yester

day & got them out on this mornings

mail team.

-18-

Discharged jury yesterday all

jury cases at issue being tried.

[page break]

Have now started in on Equity &

law cases for trial by court. Decided

case of Brace & Solner, Treas. being

an attempt to define respective spheres

of the town & school governments.

Will not be able to get away on trip

before 4^th or 5^th of Jany. and then only

by working hard day & night.

Will attend marriage of Albert Fink

& Laura Meiggs at 4 oclock, & go to a

dinner party with Bard at 6 oc. The

great ice pack which broke away

from the shore a few days ago and

went south ahead of a strong north

wind is now coming back.

-19^th-

Attended marriage of Fink & Miss Meiggs

yesterday afternoon at 4 oclock – and

also attended informal reception of their

home an hour later. The punch was

composed of brandy, whisky, champagne

& a little coloring matter – I only remained

10 minutes, got my small bit of wedding cake

and left – but the occasion, I am informed

today was worthy of the reputation that both

[page break]

both of them have for hard drinking.

Bards dinner was a very enjoyable one –

Major Strong, Schofield, Judge Reed,

Capt. Hanson, and I were guests. We

discussed public library – and

a public museum was also heartily en

-dorsed upon my suggestion. Capt

Hanson and Major Strong (of the “Nugget”),

will look after the museum, at a meeting

of the library committee today.

My work in court will now be somewhat

easier, as the jury is discharged. I am also

rapidly catching up with my work & when

once up will be able to keep abreast of

the work from this time on – I hope.

We have no word from “outside” yet,

and will not probably receive any before

January or February. The ice pack is

being pushed out to sea again by the

north wind. There is an utter absence

of heavy ice & Capt. Hanson said last

night that the ice boats used to reach

St. Petersburg could come into Nome

every week in the year, and certainly

most any well built boat could have

done so thus far this winter.

[page break]

-21^st-

Mrs. B. F. Miller & Mrs Casey have just

sold me a ticket for the Catholic ball $5.00

Mrs. Miller is the same lady whom Ed. Crouch

knows so well - she and her husband both

think Ed. is a fine fellow, and I think

they are both very good people. Mrs. M

is a pretty woman and a sweet singer.

This is the shortest day of the year – exact

mid-winter, and I am pleased to find that

it has gone by so quickly and with so little

cold and bad weather. So far the weather at

Nome has been mild, and for a week now

rather moist. But it blows very badly.

The ice on sea in front of Nome is 2 or 3

feet thick now – people do fine fishing

for tom cod through holes – a la Eskimo,

and their success shows how easily these

hyperborean Mongols could obtain food.

I am now preparing to adopt rules

of court, and have given out copies to

several lawyers to examine & criticise.

The U.S. Marshal is very much exercised

over a rule requiring him to call for

[page break]

competitive bids for all purchases

supplies &c. He came to see me & said

that in his opinion I had nothing to do

but just to approve his accounts!

That he had the power to purchase &c. &c.

He is the last relic left of the old regime

& he yields badly, - but he will yield.

I will not approve a dollar of his

accounts except in compliance with

the rule. Heretofore every petty official

in this district seems to have been a law

unto himself so far as expenses were

concerned, and Judge Noyes was never

known to refuse their exorbitant demands

out of the goodness and weakness of his heart.

When the Marshall falls into line, as he will,

the court will then have full and entire

charge of all expenditures in this district

except for fixed salaries, - fixed by law.

As long as I remain here I intend to

keep control, and no expenditure either

in the clerks or Marshals office, or by

any Commissioner or other official where

I am required to audit the account will

be allowed except such as are incurred under

the rules and honestly. The auditing of

[page break]

such accounts, and the duty of dividing

the funds between towns and school boards,

and my general duty as financial agent

for the government in all court and

municipal matters give me more real

trouble and annoyance than anything

else I have to do. But so long as I

have it to do I intend to control it.

-22-

Walked down to Ft Davis with Wm

Sternberg to see reindeer herd belonging

to “Sinrock Mary” but both were absent

- the herd being nine miles up Nome river

& Mary being in town. We called on

Major Booth – took lunch with him at Mr &

Mrs. Knudsens (Lt. Knudsen) also present

Lt. Massie.

Some time ago I wrote C. S. Henton, Comr.

at Teller that a certain woman with whom

he is alleged to be living at Teller must come

before return mail[?] in one week to Nome &

leave him permanently or I would appoint

his successor. She came in today - within

time, - she is angry and says its a lie – but

will not return. Will let him remain if

he continues, as always heretofore, to keep

straight – on account of his wife & children

[page break]

I was introduced to Mrs. Magnus Kjels

=berg last night – present her husband,

Mr & Mrs. Dagget & Molly – Mrs. K – is

a beautiful woman – a Russian and dresses

with elegant taste. I was afterwards

informed that Magnus married her in

S. F. where she was known in the highest

demi monde society as “Russian Rosa” &

where she made a fortune as an adventuress.

She has now lived with Magnus a year or more

& seems a devoted and dutiful wife: she is

highly educated, a linguist and a woman

of high & strong character. Magnus

is 6 feet, one or two inches tall – A Russian

and they are devoted to each other. Magnus

too, is rich in his mining interests – they

are in interesting pair of beautiful animals.

-Dec. 26^th-

I took dinner on Christmas eve with

Mr & Mrs. Crane – also present Capt.

Hanson & Mr & Mrs Turner – of the A. C. Co.

Mrs. Crane is a delightful hostess and

the dinner was beyond reproach – received

a beautiful card, hand water color by Miss

[page break]

Perla Wilkinson. After dinner we

talked of Circle City & up river country.

Mr & Mrs. Crane resided at Circle for

two years. At midnight we went to

Catholic church for midnight Christmas

mass. Function performed by Fathers

Van der Pol and Camille. Christmas

day I took dinner with Mr & Mrs Cowden

They are Tacoma people, - others present

Fred. Cowden, Wm Sternberg, Geo. A. Jeffery

Dr. McClannahan, & Mr. Thatcher. Cowden

is Cashier of the Alaska Bank, & Thatcher

is assayer and clerk. We had a very nice

dinner, but the dining room was cold enough

to freeze an Eskimo. In the evening we attended

the Masonic ball at the Standard Theatre. It

was such a ball as one might have expected in

a half civilized mining camp. The theatre

is one used for variety shows – an auditorium

below – with a balcony above cut off into

several small boxes opening out toward the

stage. These boxes were festooned and decorated

and occupied by ladies and gentlemen as

private reception rooms for their friends.

Here they visited – and drank, and smoked.

The giddy waltz went on below – the orchestra

[page break]

occupied the footlight of the stage – while

the stage itself was covered by tables – here

each guest had lunch after 12 oclock.

Not dancing I could only visit. As a guest

of Mr & Mrs Cowden I occupied their box, &

passed the evening in conversation. In spite

of surroundings it was a very genteel and

pleasant company. In dress it was the

usual public ball – many decollete gowns,

and dress suits. I met Mrs. Magnus Kjels

=berg again. She is really a remarkable woman

She has tact, taste and great talents. Her

power with men is astonishing. Highly edu

=cated – a linguist – a woman of great physic

=al charms and strength, - strong in her

natural mental endowments, and skilled

in the game of the world – she is such a woman

as has in times gone by overturned thrones.

Cleopatra – Sara Bernhardt – Delilah –

these are the ingredients that enter into the

composition of this Russian adventuress

- who made a fortune in San Francisco as the

keeper of an assignation house – and in a

year – as the wife of one of the magnates of

Anvil Creek, gets Nome society by the ears.

She mentioned Metson – the S. F. lawyer of

the Pioneer Mine Co. to me with a look

[page break]

that made me wonder: If he brought

about the marriage with his client to

the beautiful tigress – and if so, why?

The Pioneer Min. Co. is composed of Lind

=blom, Byrnteson, Lundeburg and

Kjelsburg – all Russian Finns – over

whom this bold, black-eyed woman will

rule like a barbarian queen. Is she in

lover with her great, strapping, silent husband

- or is it only another “graft”? There is

a million or more in the pot – if she is

playing for it, and she certainly holds

the winning cards.

-29-

This is a beautiful day – clear and cold.

The sun is big and round and already it

seems to be giving more light. 30° below this

morning. Am to take lunch with Capt.

Hansen & Corbusier – or rather they take

lunch with me at Hotel today. – Nice lunch

with Hansen & Corbusier – Father Van der Pol

and Camille called, & in evening dinner

with Capt. Hansen – present Mr & Mrs Crane

Mr & Mrs. Hoggett, Mr & Mrs Turner,

Capt. H_ Corbusier & I - “Gee” the Captain

Chinese chef set us a splendid dinner.

[page break]

-Dec. 30^th-

Held court decided – tried – two cases

& disposed of them. Gave a dinner to

Marshal Richards, Chief Dept. Forrest,

Bk.Keeper Griggs, P. C. Sullivan and

Major Strong of the ”Nuggett.” After

dinner went to Rineharts & spent the

evening playing whist. I am

dissipating terribly – dinners & balls –

but it will all end when I go on my

“mushing” trip to the Cape this week.

-Jan 1^st 1902.

Gave dinner at hotel yesterday to

Steel, Clerk of Court, Reber, asst. clk.

and Parkinson, Editor of the Nome News –

We had a jolly dinner & then, as usual, a

good smoke and stories & then all went

to the Catholic Ball. In the absence of other

escort I walked down with Mrs. Crane

& Miss Fink. While the “Standard Theatre”

was crowded, yet the ball was not as great

a success or as pleasant an event as

that of the Masons on Christmas eve.

I excused myself & left the ladies with Mr Fink

& came home rather early.

[page break]

Slept till noon today, then about 3

oclock I dressed & went calling – called

on Mrs. Judge Reed first – then on

Mrs. Crane, Mrs Strong & this evening

took dinner with the young men at the

“Pioneer Mining Co” rooms. Present

Daly, Orton, Johnson of Pioneer Co.

their mining foreman, clerk & two expert

employees – both of whom were also

fine musicians & Mrs. M. Kjelsberg.

We had a fine dinner – then cigars &

music, - violin & piano. All except

Daly, Orton & I were foreigners - &

the Russian national anthem, & Swedish

Finnish & German songs were sung.

Mrs. Kjelsberg sang in Russian, Ger

=man & English, & danced like a

ballet girl. We only remained until

8:30 & then went to hotel & after

10 oclock I went to Aarctic Brotherhood

ball & looked on until 12 oclock then

went home. I am tired of society in

Nome, and will not attend any more

public functions & very few private

ones. The town is “dance mad” – but I

have escaped that disease.

[page break]

Jany 2^nd 1902.

Worked in the office all afternoon prepar

-ing opinions in cases submitted. I am

trying to get everything ready – or rather

finished – that is submitted for decision

before I go on my trip to the Straits.

For three days now we have had a storm

in progress but it is raging tonight.

It is coming straight from the north – the air

is filled with snow, which is driven in

rolling, revolving, seething, twisting &

penetrating masses – so dense that

you cannot see 20 yards, so fierce

that you cannot face it, and the drifts

are so high that it is almost impossible

to travel even if the weather permitted it. I

pity any poor fellows out in it tonight.

Such a storm is unknown in the upper

Yukon country – around Eagle, Circle or

Ft. Yukon. We will not attempt to

go on our trip until it abates.

-Jany 3^rd-

Storm abated – clear – sun shining.

Held court this afternoon – At 3 oclock

attended a dinner party given in the Golden

Gate Hall to the Eskimo by Mrs. Daggett.

[page break]

About 40 Eskimo present dressed in

skins – furs & native garb. Large &

long table spread – cake, coffee-bread

tc &c. After a plenteous feast the table

was cleared away & we had native

songs & dances – also piano-songs

& dances by Mrs Daggett & her friends.

It is hard to tell who was most delighted

- the Eskimo at the whitemans music

& dancing or the white people at the

Eskimo music & dancing. Photographs

were taken at tables & in groups.

Each Eskimo also received a parcel of

tobacco. Mrs Kjelsberg also gave

them a taste of high life with the latest

Parisian demi monde dancing –

Fathers Van der Pol & Camille were

present.

After the Eskimo reception I attended

a dinner party at Finks : Mr & Mrs

Fink, Miss Margaret Fink & Miss

Chisholm: Marshal Richards,

Forrest, Judge & Mrs Tom Noyes

from Candle Creek – Jack Hines

& I constituted the party.

[page break]

6^th

Saturday at noon I went out with

Mrs. J. E. Crane to the big ice floe – half

a mile in front of Nome. It is piled

20 feet above the ice pack and seems

to rest on a bar. We climbed to the

top – only 20 feet, and had a fine

view of the Arctic ice field. As far as

we could see to the south, east and

west the sea was covered with ice –

with here and there great winrows – of

ice thrown up by the sea and possibly

by pressure as the pack came in &

lodged. We went on out a mile to

where the fishermen were catching crabs

- and even on beyond that. Way in the

distance we could see the steam rising

which sufficiently located open water

- probably a lane of water between

the packs. We came back and I

began court at 2 oclock, having

seen a frozen ocean in its arctic

beauty, as well as the most glorious

sunset, - all in less than two

hours. The sunset colors were delicate

yet beautiful – delicate rose, blues

and grays – whites & baby yellows.

[page break]

Captain Hansen woke me yesterday

morning – nearly at noon – too – with an

invitation to breakfast. Mr & Mrs Sol

=ner. Mr & Mrs. Crane, Mr & Mrs Tom Noyes

Hansen, Parkinson & I at breakfast

from 1 oclock to 4 by electric light.

In the evening Mr & Mrs Crane

visited me and spent an hour.

Today I held court, through but

letter to do. I am appointed Chairman

of the Arctic Brotherhood committee

on Museum: the committee meets at

3:30 to formulate a plan to put the

museum on its feet permanently.

At 5 oclock I am to attend a dinner

at Mr & Mrs B. F. Miller. – Ed. Crouchs

friends – it is an anniversary of their wed-

=ing I think. Tonight I will call

in & look on awhile at the Episcopal

- or Ladys Guild ball. I had expected

to get away to the Cape today, but Louis

Lane is pulling back – offering unex

=pected business as an excuse, but

I think the real reason is that he wants

to remain over till the athletic exercise

at the A.B. hall on Thursday night.

[page break]

8^th

Attended the Episcopal Guild ball on

night of 6^th. Tonight I entertained

at Dinner : Capt. Hansen and Mr.

Turner of the A. C. Co. Judge T. M. Reed,

Percy Parkinson, Ed. News, and V. T.

Hoggatt, attorney. We had a splendid

dinner, and a good hour over the

cigars.

The first mail of the Season

reached here last night. It only

brought letters from Dawson, Eagle &

lower points – nothing from the outside.

I am now already to go north & will

leave Friday morning.

-9^th-

In court for an hour today to finish up

some matters. All ready to go on our

trip in the morning at 10 oclock. Am

taking Kodak & expect to get some

good pictures if possible. Had the

photographer take my picture – in my

dress suit – will have him take me in

Parka &c. on return – Will write good

letter home just now & then “ready”

[page break]

10^th

Attended the athletic exercises at

the Arctic Brotherhood last night, -

boxing, wrestling &c. beer & cigars.

With Capt. Hansen called on Judge

& Mrs. Crane – met Lt. Sunderhoof

& spent two hours –

Left Nome this morning at 10

oclock, for Cape Prince of Wales,

with Louis Lane and dog team

7 dogs & sled. We are dressed in

furs – parka – cap & mittens &

mukluks or skin boots. Are at

the Quartz Creek road house tonight

- 20 miles out abreast Sledge Is.

Several Eskimo Igloos here – but

will not visit them until I come

back. Mr. H. A. Thomas keeps

the roadhouse – Portland man – 5 yrs

in Alaska – wife and child in Portland.

Louis told story of cougar which

started to jump from one high tree

across to another – but after getting

12 feet out in the air, saw he could

not reach the next tree, and so turned

& jumped back !! Truth, too.

[page break]

-11^th-

Bill at Quartz Creek $7.00 for party.

Slept badly last night – same old

trouble with my neck. Louis & I &

7 dogs occupied a room & one of

the dogs insisted on getting into my

bed to sleep. Left at 8 oclock

- daylight & dawn – but sun

did not rise till 9:30. A beautiful

morning – a clear cloudless sky

without wind. 35° below zero!

For two miles the trail was level

& as smooth as ice & our dogs

fairly flew with both of us on the

sled. From unaccustomed &

violent outdoor exercise I felt

like Corbett[?] – after he was licked.

Lunch at Thirty Mile Roadhouse at

noon. $1.50 Reach California

roadhouse for night – 20 miles

from Quartz. 34° below zero when

we got there & wind blowing.

12^th

Bill at California Roadhouse $10.00

I also paid for Louis $12.00 We left

there at 8 this morning - 12° below zero

[page break]

About 4 mi out the wind began to

blow and we were in a blizzard all

day – or rather two blizzards, for

at one point the mountains shielded

us for 4 or 5 miles – when it came

on with renewed force. The wind

blew 40 miles per hour – and the air

was filled with sharp show. We

were traveling N.W. and the wind came

from the N.E. and it was frightful.

We reached the “Oregon” Roadhouse

tonight for 32 miles from our starting

point this morning. Since leaving

Quartz Creek we have traveled either

along the beach, on the lagoons or

tundra. The mountains are from

5 to 10 miles back from the beach

The Lagoons run parallel with the

sea shore and are separated only

by a raised sand beach, thus:

[captions:] Tundra Lagoon beach. Sea.

On the tundra also we crossed many

lakes- now frozen to the bottom – but

in the summer filled with grass, water,

ducks & geese, swan, crane &c

[page break]

We met Thos Noyes & his native

“Killewaluck”, at the Seattle roadhouse

& he came on to this place with us.

-13^th-

Left Oregon roadhouse this morning

at 9 and ran into Teller at 12:30 or

20 miles in 3 ½ hours. Beautiful

yet cloudy. Could see Cape York &

Cape Prince of Wales. Crossed Port

Clarence bay on the ice. Took our

lunch with Tom Wilson – Bill

Fifes cousin & a Tacoma man

Dinner with W. J. Rogers – also a

Tacoma man & one of our friends

and am staying tonight with Ike

Evans, Dep. Marshal – a Tacoma

man and one of my friends. He &

his little wife have a beautiful

little home here.

Bill at roadhouse “Oregon”

$9 – paid by Louis.

-14^th-

Left Teller this morning in a snow

storm – traveled across the ice to the

Teller Reindeer Station, and

[page break]

reached there at 10 oclock & remained

for lunch. The station consists of

a long one story house, on the edge

of the beach & tundra, and their at or

four smaller cabins for stables. Just

to the east of the station is the graveyard.

Met Mr & Mrs Brevig, & three children

Mr. Klemsmith – from Teller. The

reindeer herd is over in the Agiapuk

The snow storm increasing we employ

=ed our Eskimo boy to guide us across

the tundra and lagoons to the next

roadhouse. We reached this house

just at dusk, - the wind raging but the

snow ceased falling : The “Windy Igloo”

is situated on the sandspit 26 mi

from Teller, & 25 from Cape York

It is a wooden den in the sandbar

built of drift wood which lines the

outer beach. 2 rooms – one for dogs

& the other for the host & travelers.

2 men (white in color) and an Eskimo

woman occupied it. Wind rising

fast & storm pending. Louis

paid bill at Teller = $10.00

[page break]

-15^th-

The wind is raging this morning – coming

down from the north, catching up the

new fallen snow of yesterday & whirling

it along on the ground in dense clouds

It is impossible to face it – or to travel

& as it has driven the ice off shore &

we must go overland most of the

way to Cape York in order to get

around the headlands, - we will

not move from “Windy Igloo” today.

Louis paid our Eskimo guide

- name “Sooluk” $5.00 We

had seal meat for breakfast this

morning. It tasted somewhat like

calves liver – also slight taste of

fish – but it is tender & good.

-16^th-

Wind still blowing a gale & thermometer

46° below zero. “Sooluk” left us

& went back home – but we will not

go for we may have to go several miles

inland & the wind, cold & snow make

it very dangerous – so we will rem

=ain here another day.

[page break]

-17^th-

Wind abated somewhat & we will try

to go the beach around headlands

between here and Cape York. The ice

has gone out f before the strong north

wind, and we may have to go over the

hills. If so it will be a hard, long &

cold trip – Unable to get away today

on account of the razors in the wind

& flying snow. Read “The Little Minister”,

& “The Crown of Straw”.

-18^th-

Wind & storm so far abated that

we are loading to go – will try to go

around the headlands for we can see

that the ice has come in again. We

owe the Keeper of the “Windy Igloo” the

sum of $38.00 but do not pay it

until we come back.

Beautiful morning – clear – sun up at

9 oclock – long ride on ice between

Windy Igloo & Cape York. After

passing the Cape we met violent

winds & flying snow - & also rough

ice – thence into Cape York – town – it

was a struggle & we reached there at

1 oclock – cold & sore – Went to

[page break]

Armands – Mr & Mrs Armand

and daughter Emma – son in Nome.

Mr. Armand tells me that the two jade

peices which he gave me 14 years ago

- chisel and adze blade – came from a

mound 2 ½ miles above Abrieme

- Vancouvers Island – at the confluence

of Sumas & Sproat rivers –

-19^th-

Wind blew a hurricane all night &

yet this morning. It is Sunday, too

so we will not go on to the Cape today

although it is but 15 miles, & good

trail. It is bitter cold, & snow is

boiling out of the gulches.

There are but two families left in

York – where a year ago they had

great expectations as a mining camp.

It is the windiest spot on earth.

-20^th-

Left Cape York – or rather the

mouth of York river this morning

at 9 oclock in an icy blast for

the straits. We ran to the Indian

Village Pelezerut – 5 miles

[page break]

then hired Eskimo boy as guide

A bitter storm was raging – wind

fog & snow – as we rounded the

Cape. Great masses of ice piled

on shore – rough – broken – wind

from all directions – such a

storm as greeted the daughter of

Herodias (See 1^st Chap. of the

Wandering Jew). Rounded the

most westerly point of either of

the American continents in this

terrible storm & reached Mr Lopp

at 3 oclock – received a warm

welcome – white bear steak for

supper and reindeer for breakfast.

-21^st-

Wrote letter to Debbie & sent out

to Cape York p. b. by some Eskimo

boys. Attended an Eskimo dance

this afternoon in the “Koz-ga”. Will

describe it in my Notes – Bringing

some curios – or rather ethnological

specimens from the natives.

Attended dance in Eskimo “Koz-ge

& treated to a case of hardtack.

[page break]

-22-

Attended native dance in “Koz-ge”

Buying specimens of Eskimo

work all day – gave another

case of hard tack – to the Koz ge

nearest to the hill.

23^rd

Visited many native houses today

with “Ok-ba-ok”, the chief &

bought some fine jade specimens.

24^th

Finished visiting the native houses

with Ok-bá-ok. We did not miss

a house, and I talked (through the

interpreter) with them & their mode

of life – hunting – sealing & working

Visited the “Koz ge” & found it full

of workers – at mid afternoon - &

tonight attend a reception there

- music – dancing – theatricals,

feasting. As each family came in

it was received by the drummers &

singers & those coming in danced.

After the feast for those “received” they

departed in the same order with

music, & dancing.

[page break]

-25^th-

Went out 3 miles on the ice

this forenoon to the drift ice.

Current toward the north at

the rate of one miles in 2 hours

measured by watch & walking.

Current filled to the brim with

ice – broken – floes & slush

Grand & magnificent stream

of ice flowing northward.

Spent the evening with Ok-bā-ok

writing a vocabulary.

-Sunday 26^th-

Spent day writing notes & in

afternoon went to Indian church.

Went to afternoon church service

with Mr. Lopp. Eskimo girl played

the organ, and the natives sang without

hesitancy both religious and national

songs – I spoke to them for half

an hour on the laws of Alaska

- a native offered prayer. It

was a strange meeting here on

the westernmost point of the

American continent. Mr Lopp

acted as interpreter for me & also

made a speech to them

[page break]

-27^th-

Bad weather to this date – dreadful

winds – snow & too inclement to

hunt. This evening, however, is clear

calm & colder & I hope tomorrow will

be nice. If so I will climb the mountain

& make Kodak views around the cape.

Today I worked on vocabulary with

Ok-bā-ok the chief – with the assistance

of M. Lopp & Louis Lane. The Eskimo

have already brought in some seals

Wrote a letter to Debbie tonight and

it will go to Nome by Eskimo carrier

tomorrow. Have made arrangements

to go up coast 35 miles to Mr Lopps rein

=deer herd & thence with reindeer & sleds

with native drivers across country to

Teller – in about a week. Am getting

a fine collection of Eskimo curios

- many jade specimens – old Russian

bells – dated 1817, &c. Louis will

go from here – when I go north – straight

down coast to Teller & wait for me.

[page break]

28^th

Beautiful clear cold morning

7 oclock : Everybody from the Eskimo

village going out on the ice – men

women & children – singing & happy

harvest day for fish & seal.

Mr. Lopp, Mrs. Bernhardi & I go

to the top of the mountain.

THE CADET

We reached the top of the highest peak

just east of the cape at 11 oclock

& from its summit could see Berings

Sea at our feet, and to the southward

across the ice floes King Island.

To the north spread the Arctic Ocean

which we could see from almost at

the foot of the mountain as far as the eye

could reach. To the west Berings

straits filled with ice, the Diomede

Islands & looming over them the

high land of East Cape of Asia.

Standing upon the spot where

[page break]

Eugene Sue declares the daughter of

Herodias stood as she gazed upon

the “Wandering Jew” on East Cape

We, too, distinctly saw that head land

of the old World. At one glance to see

America and Asia – the Arctic Ocean

Berings Straits and Berings sea is an

incident to be remembered. The Straits

are filled with floating ice, - the Eskimos

go out - & did today – for miles to hunt

seal. They often cross to the islands

on the floating ice, and many have

crossed to Asia with dog teams on

the solid ice. – Such an excursion is

most common, though, in the summer

when the journey is made in one day

in their boats. While on the mountain

today I named it “THE CADET,” &

carved the words on a flat granite slab

on its very summit. It is as clean

& graceful as a cadet – its symmetry

suggested the name & I shall write

to the Dept.s at Washington & try &

have the name perpetuated. If

“The Cadet” looks down upon the Cape Prince

of Wales it will!

[page break]

-29^th-

Hurt my eye with flying fragment of

granite in carving name yesterday

on the mountain – and this morning it

pains me very much. Took dozen views

with Kodak today – think some are good.

An Eskimo hunter – “Nā-dak-{tax-ite}-sot

failed to get off the mooring ice in the

straits this evening – he was wet to his

waist, and will have to remain out

on the floating ice all night. He was

once before out for three days & nights.

-30^th-

Nothing seen or heard of the lost

hunter “Na – tax – ite”. The natives

refuse to go out with boats, which

they say would be crushed. The wind

changed from south to east last night

& they now think he will reach either

the Diomedes or East Cape.

Natives are often carried away & reach

Point Hope, the Diomedes, Siberia

or even points far down the Bering

sea. Natives from the Asiatic shore

are likewise carried off to this shore.

Writing vocabulary & collecting

[page break]

31^st

Nothing from the lost native yet.

I am about ready to go home. I have

made all the purchases I care to &

can do but little with the vocabulary

for want of time & a quiet place to do

the work. Then I am annoyed by

Louis & his dogs. He seems to think

I ought to surrender my comfort to that

of the dogs & fills my room with them.

He has grown cranky about it and

has made me very uncomfortable for

the last two or three days & I am

determined now to go as soon as possible

& escape further annoyance. We will

start probably Monday morning.

-Febry 1-

Worked today burning out two earthen

pots from an old kitchen – where they

are buried in sand. Attended a dance

at the Koz-ge tonight & also the

athletes exhibitions there this after

=noon. The reindeer came in

today to take me out on trip on

Monday-

[page break]

Sunday Feb. 2^nd

A bright day but so windy & cold

that it was impossible to go about

with comfort. 5° below zero &

blowing a gale from the east. If

it is quiet tomorrow we will start

home. I only need to dig out

the two pots & pack my curios

& we can start in an hour. The

trip has been all I expected only

that I did not get to hunt. I

had hoped, too, that some unusual

condition might enable us to

cross to the Diomedes on the ice –

but the loss of Na-tax-ite has

scared me out from sealing on

the ice pack & no weather fit for

hunting white bear has favored us

in that respect. I am getting

anxious, too, about my outside

mail, which ought to be in Nome

by this time. So will probably

pack and go: Recd. long letter from

Mrs. Bernhardi, the government

Eskimo teacher here, today – it is a

tale of woe – she ought to have been born a man

[page break]

-3^rd-

Spend today in preparation for

our return journey to begin tomorr

=ow. Failed to get the pots thawed

out, & will only have two to take

with me. Everything else that I want

& have had a pleasant & profitable

(from an ethnological standpoint) visit.

Have been treated with the kindest con

=sideration by Mr & Mrs Lopp &

feel under many obligations to them.

-4^th-

Beautiful morning - 16° below

zero & we start for Cape York.

Mr. Lopp goes with us – several

reindeer & sleds go also.

We left the Cape about noon – the

Eskimo driver ahead on his sled.

I followed on sled, & Mrs. Bernhardi

& Mr Lopp followed on separate sleds

Louis followed behind with the

dog team. It was a beautiful day

- clear & cold – a cloudless sky &

the thermometer 16° below zero. We

went east along the Arctic shore &

[page break]

across the tundra until we reached

passed around the mountain mass which

constitutes the highland of the Cape & thence

crossed southward to the Bering Sea

beach & thence along the beach to York.

I made several exposures with the

Kodak to get photographs of “the Cadet”

& the Cape, - hope I succeeded. I

enjoyed the reindeer sled ride very

much. Went to Armands for the

night. Said to Mr & Mrs. Armand

that I would appoint him a bailiff

in court for the Feb. term beginning 17^th

-5^th-

We left York this morning in

company with Humber, the mail

carrier, who had a dog team of

5 dogs to sled. Made a rapid

run to Teller, which we reached

tonight at 7:30 – traveled 50 miles.

Stopped over at Brevigs – Teller

Reindeer station for supper & a

rest - & came rest of the way

- 8 miles across the bay after

dark in snow storm. Went to

Ike Evans & staid all night – had

a refreshing sleep in a good bed.

[page break]

-6^th-

Left Teller early & ran all day &

reached the California road house

for the night – 50 miles out of

Teller. We saw a snowy or

Arctic owl & Louis killed a

white fox with the Gun – but it was

fast in a trap.

-7^th-

We left the California roadhouse

at 6:30 this morning & got into

Nome this afternoon at 3 oclock

- 40 miles. = 140 miles in

3 days – from York river to Nome

& I ran with the dogs a fair part

of the time – at least a fourth - &

that too at 6 miles an hour.

I found only one outside mail in

& no letter from home. Another

mail is expected hourly – expected!

News by telegraph today that

Judge Noyes has been removed by

the President – but the information

lacks authenticity. Wrote Debbie a

short letter – took bath – put on

clean clothes – am now in clean

nightgown & in bed – good night.

[page break]

-8^th-

Found that an outside mail had

reached here some days ago & some

letters were awaiting me, but none

from home. Several from Eagle.

Appointed Major Strong jury

Comr. & started to work promptly.

Another mail reported near & will

be in in a day or two – Report that

Judge Noyes has been removed

by the President seems doubtful.

Spent the day in arranging my

room – bought a new desk &

put in - & put up Eskimo curios.

My trip to the Cape has been of great

service to me in my study of American

ethnology: I conclude from a careful

examination of the conditions there & in

Alaska generally that there was no

obstacle to the migration of the Mongolian

people via the straits to America.

Such a migration necessarily result

=ed from the presence of people there

for there are enforced migrants every

year carried to the opposite shores

from the seal hunters on the floating ice.

[page break]

Sunday 9^th

Have been arranging my Eskimo

collection on the walls of my room

at the Golden Gate hotel. Took dinner

at Capt. Hansons – present Mr & Mrs Crane,

Mr & Mrs. Carter, Dr. Call, Mrs. Hoggatt,

Mrs. Burrill, the Capt. & I – “Gee” did

himself proud – and he thanked me for

the nice letter I wrote him acknowledging

his Christmas cake. New “Rules of

Court” printed – a good job.

10^th

No mail yet – although expected hourly.

Court business beginning slowly –

Attended “roof garden party” (really

a beer garden function) given by the K.

of P. at Golden Gate Hotel tonight.

Since I went away the Golden Gate hall

has been enlarged to twice its former size,

and yet it was crowded to suffocation.

-11^th-

Mail! The long delayed and

wished for outside mail has just

arrived, and is partly distributed.

I am in receipt of a letter from Heilig

announcing that Judge Noyes has

[page break]

been removed by the President.

on Dec. 14^th. Have also a good

long letter from Senator Foster of

date Nov. 12, saying that I would

probably be assigned to Nome

although he had then no certain

information about it. The Senator

says that during his conference with the

Atty Genl. the latter read him a telegram

from one of the San Fran. commercial Companies

asking that I be transferred to Nome – this

must have been Capt. Hibbards telegram,

for the petition, telegrams, letters &c. &c.

from the bar, companies & people of

Nome did not leave here until Oct. 30,

on the “Barbara Hunster” & could not

have reached Washington before some

time in the first of December. The removal

of Judge Noyes on the 14^th of Dec. must

have been after all these had been in

the hands of the President – so that it

looks as if I am liable to remain here.

Heilig sends me Claypools reports

for approval – and writes of the murder of one

Christianson by Harry Owens, who is

now in jail for the crime. I also recd.

$1268.50 – salary for April Mch, May & June 1901.

[page break]

Received short letter from Debbie with

the bad news that Howard is again very

ill – this time with pleurisy. Dr. Yocum

has attended him - & it was necessary to

pierce his lung with a needle – but with

favorable results. She writes me that he

is some better – but not yet out of danger.

I pray that he may recover – our other son

died in my absence and it is too much for

the mother to bear alone. She writes me that

Darrell is doing well this year – Good!

Received a very pleasant letter from

Leigh Hunt, at Chennelp[?], Korea – forw

=arded by Gov. McGraw at Seattle.

-12^th-

Held court this forenoon and called the

motion calendar: dictated letters to George

all afternoon, in answer to yesterdays

mail. Blizzard prevailed all day, but

clear and still tonight. Sat for picture

at photographer today – my Kodak views

are much better than I expected – of the Cape.

[page break]

[sketched map of Cape Prince of Wales]

[captions:] Tundra Cape Prince of Wales

The Cadet, 2600 ft

East Cape Diomedes Fairway

Cape Prince of Wales

Rognon

July 19, 1901

$2475. E. G. R.

http://library.alaska.gov/hist/fulltext/ASL-MS0107-Diary03-1901-1902.htm