Alaska State Library - Historical Collections, PO Box 110571, Juneau AK 99811-0571
ASL-MS0107-Diary09-1905
James A. Wickersham diary, February 21,
1905 to November 24, 1905.
DIARY
of
JAMES WICKERSHAM
February 21, 1905
to
February 17 {November 24}, 1905.
<page break>
[February 1905]
-1905-
Valdez to Fairbanks
-February 21st -
The Strs Santa Clara & Portland
came into Valdez yesterday & I waited
for mail one letter from Debbie.
Left Valdez at 7:30 this morning
reached Camp Comfort at 11:15 & got
dinner. Keystone Canon, Dutch
Flat, and Wortmans RoadHouse.
at foot of summit at 5 oclock
Miners camps all around Dan
Kane, Genl. E. M. Carr, & others.
Have Bob Cole & dog team of 6
dogs with me 20 miles today.
<page break>
-22-
Left Wortmans early climbed Thompsons Pass
down head of Tiekel - dinner at Ptarmigan
Drop. Beautiful morning clear & calm.
Mountains serrated sawtoothed. Saw Tiekel
Glacier, & beautiful frozen cascades. Passed
No 3. Telegraph station Tiekel Canon &
arrived at Beaverdam Road house for the
night. Walked from Wortmans to Ptarmigan
Drop, before dogs caught me, & acrobated.
the sled to Baverdam. Glorious day &
splendid mountain & canon scenery.
20 miles today tired & sleepy.
23rd
Left Beaver Dam early down Tiekel
to forks & up north fork lunch at the
Telegraph station where we met Jacobson
<page break>
& thence on to Ernestine Roadhouse.
Fine weather hard trail, but road rough
Ed. Page who keeps Ernestine Roadhouse
is old Alaskan from Cook Inlet &
Kenai: Met Dan Callahan with teams
from Fairbanks to Valdez for goods.
21 miles
-234rd-
From Ernestine north down branch of
the Tonsina arrived at Tonsina Crossing
at noon motley crew of Indians,
miners, mushers, prostitutes &c. dinner
Pete Monahan & his outfit on way to
Sushitna to work claims also govern
-ment train of 40 or 50 mules packing tele
graph supplies to stations as far as the
Tanana crossing. Roads ahead said
to be good so we started to make
Copper Center 24 miles by telegraph
measurement but much farther by road
<page break>
Halfway it began to snow & we dragged
in at 10 oclock having walked 51
miles the last 15 in the face of a snow
storm. Hohman got us
to something hot
to drink & Blix a good supper & then
into a good bed. A hard long day.
-25-
Have remained all day at Copper Center
with Hohman & Blix. Bought 6 more
very large lynx skins for a robe = $33.00
Met Lt. Bascott U.S.A. who is here on
special detail to find the Indians, many
of whom are sick. Beautiful view of
Mts. Drum and Wrangell the latter of
is throwing great volumes of black smoke
& seems to have a particular desire to
show off Blackburn in distance
Send lynx skins back to Valdez to be
<page break>
forwarded by Debney to Debbie.
Holman & Blix showed me their
map of the proposed town of
Copper Center; they named one of
the streets after me & gave me two
lots upon the agreement that I would
build a house. They are doing fine
here both with store and farm.
They have a lot of fine marten & black
fox skins & the largest lynx I ever saw.
Large number of travelers we are joined
here tonight by John the Frenchman,
with his fine dog team taking two prize
fighters and a burly female companion
into Fairbanks.
-26th-
Left Copper Center at 6 am a warm
<page break>
south wind a clear sky a spring
morning. Wild canary birds bring
advance news of spring great
concentric clouds hang above Mts. Drum
Wrangell & Sandford the trail lies up
the center of Copper river good hard
trail we came in good shape past
the Klutena Tazlina Gulkana &
found our roadhouse at 4.p.m. just
within the Gokana Gakona valley. Overflow
quarter of a mile below & waded to help
dogs feel fine today rode enough
to rest up good. 30 miles.
-27th-
Good roadhouse at Gakona, but no
fresh air in it since the windows were
put in last summer. Left at 6:30
followed telegraph road on high ground
<page break>
north side of Copper river and from
the bluff had a magnificent view of the
heights of Mts Drum & Sanford and
also of the great smoking crater of
Mt Wrangell. This fumerole or vent
for the interior fires, opens in the center of
a level table land on the north side summit
of this great mountain, and volumes of
black smoke continually poured
forth and rolled with the wind across
the summit it does not rise I won
=der if it is composed of heavy poisonous
gases like those which destroyed Mt
Pelle? Up the telegraph road 11 mi.
thence across the level lightly wooded
plain to the Gakona river & up that
stream 5 mi. to the Chippewa roadhouse
<page break>
This hostelry consists of a tent & a lean
too log cabin a very primitive affair
kept by one John Gillespie 26 mi.
-28th-
Left Chippy-wa-wa (as the miners
call it) Roadhouse & waded water
for 3 or 4 miles up the great wide
glaciered river {valley}. Snowed an hour
in our faces & made the traveling very bad.
In the afternoon late we struck bad overflows
at the canyon & waded water knee deep & broke
ice but reached the Roosevelt Roadhouse
at 5 oclock. Fine day sunny afternoon
25 miles from Chippewa to this roadhouse.
This is a big tent a temporary affair.
Ed. de Mug, Billy de Pug & Belle de Bitch
are here with John the Trashman.
<page break>
[March 1905]
-March 1st-
Had a good sleep at Roosevelt tent
- a fine morning and as we approached
the head waters of the Gokona the highland
- the view of Sanford, Wrangell & Drum
was grand Sanford & Drum on either
side seemed unreal almost so blue
and so sharp their contours white between
them and beyond the long glacier covered
slopes of Wrangell glistened in the sun
shine like burnished copper a view
for a master poet beyond the painters
touch the cone of old Wrangell threw
up the smoke from its internal fires into
a high column which finally drifted
toward the Pacific in a long thread like
cloud Toward the other direction the
way we were journeying arose the
<page break>
snowy pinnacles of the Tanana
range down from the highest summits
of which in mighty terraces dropped
the great glacier which supplies the
Gokona river with its summer milky
stream. It was a grand day well
worth a tourists time and labor.
Near the head of the Gokonia our trail
crossed a ridge to the west, and plunged
deep into the mountain valley of the
upper Gulkana. Here in the last
timber at the foot of the divide
between the Gulkana & the Delta we
are encamped in our own tent for
the night, - 20 miles today.
-2nd-
Cold at our camp last night but
clouded up after midnight & warmer
& snowed all day today-
<page break>
We followed up the bed of the Gul
=kana to Summit Lake. Lake 6 or
7 mi long clear the Gulkana
clacier empties into the lake where
the water settles & runs into the
river clear. Pass from Gulkana
to Delta wide and water level
a fine pass for a railroad from the
Copper to the Tanana Crossed this
Alpine pass at noon & reached
Caseys Cache 4 tents at 5 p.m. making
28 miles today. John Drake & wife
& party here.
-3rd-
From Caseys Cache the trail was good
over the ice About 15 miles below Caseys C
coming into the Delta from the westside is
<page break>
an immense glacier. At one time it extend
=ed entirely across the Delta valley and pushed
its morainal debris a hundred feet or more
high on the opposite slope. But the river
& changing climate have gained the advantage
though the river is greatly choked with rocks
& glacial gravels. It is the most remarkable
feature of the Delta river, and so far it has
no name. Reached Nigger Bill Road
House at 5 oclock 30 miles today.
-4th-
Nigger Bill Roadhouse is the worst
on the road. It is a good warm house
& I slept well but dirt & laziness
riots. I had intended to remain over
there to go after a mountain sheep but
from the Fairbanks paper which Senator
<page break>
Hill gave me at the Rapids Roadhouse I
learned there was a fight on at Fairbanks
over the game law so concluded that
I would not lay myself open to the
criticism which would surely follow &
very reluctantly gave up the hunt. Trail
from Nigger Bill to Jarvis creek good &
we made the 28 miles by 1 oclock. It
was 15Ί below zero & as I had on only
drawers & overalls I got cold & had to
run nearly all the way Good dinner
at Jarvis creek two of Bobs dogs ran
away after rabbits I started on at
15 min till 3 - & walked & run to the
Bennett Barnette roadhouse & trading
post at Tanana river 12 miles in
2 hrs & 27 min Bob came in 2
hrs afterward having found the dogs.
<page break>
The trading post is on the bank of the Tan
ana about Ό mile above the mouth of the
Delta river. Nothing here except the
log trading post a building 20 X 22 ft
with a tent behind side room 16 X 30 ft.
& doghouse & house shed Indian
camp - near on river bank 30 .
Much excitement about strike on the Little
Delta & also on a creek on right limit
called Tenderfoot.
-Mar 5th-
Left Bennetts passed Maxcys on the
lower side of the Delta 3 cabins & stable.
Lunch at Arthur Thomas 20 mi. where
they told us about the strike on Tenderfoot.
Went on down to Joe. Henrys 6 mi.
for the night. Met H. Hart, a long
<page break>
six footer & something more He is locating
a town site at mouth of Banner Creek
- I drew up a notice for him & suggested
Sloss, as its name on act. of pride in
transportation companies. They give
us such accounts of the new strike that
I have concluded to leave Bob here a
day or two to look things over.
-6th-
Left Bob at Joe Henrys roadhouse,
he has concluded to go over to the
Tenderfoot and look into the new strike.
Mr. Hart will go into Fairbanks with me.
We took my sled Don, Ikey, and one of
Henrys dogs and left for Salchakat Rd. Hs.
Half way met Capt. Barnette & another
man on their way to Bennetts Rd. Hs.
<page break>
Bennett & Barnette are both interested
in that venture. He reported everything in
good shape in the camp. Stopped at
the Indian village just below the mouth
of the little Delta - good log houses & the
natives seem well and to have plenty.
Arrived at Salchakat at 1 oclock
28 miles. Received telegram from
Judge Moore asking about jurors fees.
Also telegram this date from Henderson:
Wire from Jermane today says
you
are reappointed and will be confirmed.
Evidently the President has given me
another recess appointment the third
since Nov 16! and means to stand by me.
This is compensation for the hardships
and difficulties which I have sustained
in establishing the courts in Central Alaska,
and I am particularly thankful to
<page break>
1st Walter E. Clark.
2nd Judge W.A. Day-
3rd Capt. D H Jarvis-
4. Stephen
Birch-
5. Senator
Fairbanks.
6. The Attorney Generals Knox
and Moody.
7. Solicitor General Hoyt. and
a long list of friends in every part of
Alaska. My enemies have been both
numerous and powerful I have
been amazed at their energy somebody
must have been badly hurt! Think the
jury fixers will now need to go out of
business in Alaska. Of course the matter
will be public and Debbie will know
it as soon as I - Have telegraphed to
Stier to have my house warm tomorrow.
<page break>
Late this evening received telegram
from Perry, at Seattle as follows:
I congratulate you reappointed
today with cabinet officers.
Geo. G. Perry, Marshal
-7th-
Hart and I left Salcha at 6 a.m.
for the final 42 mile mush to Fairbanks
Our dogs tired & one exhausted & left at
roadhouse 25 miles out we trudged on
afoot helping the others Edgar met us
14 miles out on a damned bicycle-
& urged me to get in early as it was the
10th anniversary of his marriage & his
friends intended to have doins, so I just
finished that last 25 miles at 7 oclock
with my feet badly blistered. Bath clean
clothes supper with Edgar & Lizzie - & staid
till 12 enjoying (?) social conversation
<page break>
with their friends Conna had my house
warm & lighted & I went home to bed.
Fairbanks has grown wonderfully &
the long lines of electric lights give it the
appearance of a real city.
-8th-
Went to the office today & got things
to going. Called a term of court
for April 10th. Heilig at work here.
Everything in good shape so far as I can
see but I am sore and tired.
-9th-
Fairbanks has grown marvelously since
last fall electric lights along the principal
streets new buildings extensive areas of
outside ground covered with residences
& many other evidences of prosperity are
seen: I am to have reception Saturday evening
<page break>
-10th-
Settled with Bob. Coles for bringing
me over from Valdez, paid him $250.00
He filed on two placer claims on Tenderfoot
- back of the Big Kid Roadhouse 70
miles up the Tanana Also had a
talk with Kellogg & Badger who bought
out Chas. W. Willigs mines upon which
I hold mortgage for $2750. & int. They
proposed to reduce the amount to $2500.
& give new notes & mortgage agreed.
I also purchase from T. A. Anderson
Lot & half on 4th Ave & Cowles St. for $250.
- house on property cost that much.
Mail last night letters from Debbie
Major Lacey & others nothing official.
-11th-
Heard the application for injunction
<page break>
in Daigle v Maddock refused.
-Reception
A splendid public reception
was tendered me this evening in
the Century Club Hall by the Chamber
of Commerce and the Bar Association.
Capt. Olsen, Pres. Chamber of Commerce
presided C. M. Johansen made the
speech of welcome & then I spoke
555 persons present including
a large delegation from Chena-
It was a very flattering & complimentary
incident in my life in the Tanana
and I appreciate it fully.
-12th-
Sunday. Worked at house fixing it comfortably.
Loaned Melsing from Council $50.00
Dinner with Edgar & Lizzie Charlie Joynt
there & we talked of boyhood days in Patoka
<page break>
-13th-
Working to get my office & house
in shape. Electric lights in house
Have agreed to lease my 10 ft. frontage
on 2nd Ave. opposite Courthouse to
Miss Sullivan for 3 yrs. at $50. per mo.
Dr. Geho came in to spend an hour
& smoke a cigar the clever Dr. has the
feminine love for scandal & small
talk I know from his 2 hours flow
everything small that has happened
in Fairbanks this winter just how many
miscarriages the women have had & how
often Dr. Hall his leading competitor
has been drunk. A real live yawn
doesnt even surprised the good Dr.
Beautiful weather.
<page break>
-14th-
Wrote to Debbie & Walter E. Clark.
Sent my oath of office to Atty. Genl.
Kellogg, Kerr & Badger paid me $300.00
on Willig loan & I agree to extend it
6 mo when reduced to $2500. Have
written letter to Heilig asking for his
resignation will deliver it tomorrow
Will appoint Ed. J. Stier in his place.
- & John L. McGinn Commissioner
if he will accept.
-15-
Notified Heilig verbally and in writing
today that I desired his resignation to
take effect Mch 31. Powell, the new
Marshal for Nome, who left here three
days ago over the ice for that place
<page break>
has been recalled on charges!
I hope I can make enough money out
of my property and mines to enable me
to retire from official life soon, for
it is hell in Alaska. Signed
contract with Kellogg, Kerr & Badger
today by which they agree to pay the
Willig notes. Also prepared contract
with Miss Sullivan for lease of ten
feet fronting on 2nd Avenue.
-16th-
Much to my surprise Heilig doesnt
act ugly about his removal but came
in gave me his resignation and talked
as freely and friendly even more so as ever.
He seems to have expected it, and since I
treated him nice about it, and gave him
the opportunity to announce it to the
<page break>
public as his free act, he seems inclined
to be nice about the whole matter. I feel
that I treated the matter tactfully and made
the change without arousing inquiry or sur
=prise in the Department. Have been arran
=ging my accumulated letters into packages
by date. Made contract of lease with
Miss Sullivan for 10 ft on 2nd Ave. today
$50.00 rent per month 3 yrs the buildings
to become mine. Settlement with Ed. J.
Stier for collections of rent since last
fall he paid me balance $1027.00
When Hill & Miss Cleary were married
here in Fairbanks last winter Miss Ebersole
gave them my house and they slept
here for a week until their departure
for Dawson and I have to sleep
here alone until Debbie comes!!
<page break>
-17-
St. Patricks day. Have permitted
Heilig to announce his resignation &
will appoint Stier the paper says so
tomorrow The Fairbanks News, is
now published bi-weekly twice a
week Mon Wednesdays & Saturdays.
Attended St Pats Irish Ball tonight
with Lizzie. Nice cutter ride this
afternoon with Barnette. Also
cleaned house am putting in a
nice new carpet sideboards &c.
& preparing to set up my phonograph
-18th-
Finished arranging papers & letters
in my office bought sideboard for the
house set up phonograph & getting
carpet ready to go down on floor.
<page break>
-19th-
Sunday Dinner with Dr. & Mrs. Hedger
Charley Joynt, Jackson. Tozier
& Badger came down to the house last
night & we played the phonograph,
smoked & drank Scotch. Mrs. Hedger
had a fine roast leg of mountain sheep
for dinner.
-24th-
Went out to the Creeks Monday on
Mutchlers stage Mr. & Mrs. Brumbaugh
on stage. We went via Golden & reached
Gates City on Cleary Creek opposite
No 1. below Two years ago when I passed
up this creek there were
{two (2) Jesse Nobles & Jim Eagles.} three little
log
cabins there & but three shafts to bedrock &
no work of any kind doing. Now there are
probably 1000 people on Cleary Creek
<page break>
it is being mined from #8 above to
#15 below a paystreak 6 miles long
from thirty to eight hundred feet wide &
from three to ten feet deep. There are
now 46 self dumping hoisting plants
taking pay dirt out of the mines & it is
the busiest and richest spot in Alaska.
Staid with Mrs. Canavan & on Tuesday
visited around Discovery my claim
off Discovery has a half a dozen or more
squatters cabins on it On Wednesday
I went down Creek as far as #16 &
visited mine owners dinner with Jack
Ross. Made a contract with Krause
Anderson & Davidson to prospect lower
100 feet of my claim off Discovery they
to have 75 & I 25% of gross output.
Thursday came across from Cleary to
Golden & then walked up to the new
<page break>
quartz strike at the top of Pedros
Dome. Boys have staked a claim there
for me got some of their quartz & then
to the top of the dome. Fine view of the
Tanana valley the river ice shines like
a thread of silver through the forests
along its banks the Alaskan range
from the Delta to Mt. McKinley is in sight
& the range between the Tanana & Yukon
in plain view for a long ways around.
Remained at Golden all night & came
home today 3 oclock p.m.
Recd. telegram from Attorney General as follows:
The President reappointed you March twenty first.
If you accept qualify immediately and forward
oath. See section
ten Alaska act of June 6th
nineteen hundred and section seventeen sixty
one revised Statutes. Moody.
<page break>
also a later telegram saying:
Comptroller advises Department your salary
can be paid notwithstanding section seventeen sixty one.
Valdez Mail!
The Valdez Mail came in this evening. Letter from
Debbie well, but ready to fight because I am not
confirmed! Also a letter from Major Lacy,
saying that President Roosvelt assured him
that he would promptly reappoint you if the nomin
=ation should not be acted upon. Lacy has been
a persistent and vigorous supporter. Also
letters from Foster & Sammons assuring me of
their efforts but I am so disgusted with them for
endorsing Richrads that I can hardly treat
them fair any more. Many other letters.
-25th-
Sent for John L. McGinn yesterday and offered
him the Commissionership at Fairbanks but
he is in great doubt whether to accept it
<page break>
or not he can make more practicing law
- the salary is $3,000 a year. He and his wife
& partner Mark Sullivan came down & spent
this evening with me - & we discussed the matter.
While nothing was agreed on yet I think he will
decline the appointment. I have General Carr
- who is on the trail to Fairbanks now but will
do nothing for a few days. Stier will take
the Clerkship next Saturday a week off.
-26th-
Sunday Home all day straightening up
the house & resting. Dinner tonight with
Johanson & Mills Writing to Debbie.
-27-
John Conna, janitor courthouse,
came in & told me this morning that
Bion A. Dodge, attorney, said to him
last night that I was interested
<page break>
with Barnette in the trading post site
at the mouth of the Delta river and that
if I appointed a Commissioner and located
him at that point instead of a new town
site which has been located by Dodges
friends within a week at the mouth of the
Little Delta they (Dodges & his friends) would
make a fight on me in Washington that
would ruin me!! He seems to have
sent me word to that effect by John to
attempt to control my action in the
matter. Claypool & Cowles got in from Valdez
-28th-
Harlan, F. M. Brown, Tom Larson & others
in today from Valdez A petition is
being circulated asking Ed. Stier to
remain as Comr. think he wants to
do it. Am preparing charges
<page break>
of packing Wright jury against
P. C. Sullivan to prevent his appointment
as U.S. Dist. Atty. for Western division
of Washington!! Intend to send them
to Judge Day for presentation to the
President if he thinks it proper to do
so. Bates, Healy, Richmond, Boerner,
Preston and , the N. C. boys came
down and spent the evening playing
phonograph & having a good time.
-29th-
Prepared & forwarded to Atty. Genl.
(to Asst. W. A. Day) charges of jury fixing
in Wright case against Chas. P. Sullivan
Dr & Mrs. Hedger, Mr & Mrs Turner, Lizzie
& Johnnie Scott down & spent evening.
-30th-
Made out my quarterly expense account and
Feb & Mch salary acts. & ford. to Washington
<page break>
-31-
Another Valdez mail in yesterday & a
letter from Debbie she talks bravely
but seems to me to admit more than usual
- I think she is much sicker than she says-
Went to theatricals at Century Club
tonight with Lizzie bad enough to be good
Ben. Everette, one of the Ankeny Sul
=livan push came in from Valdez yesterday.
He is a bad egg and must be watched-
[April 1905]
-April 1st-
Heiligs resignation took effect
with the close of business yesterday and
this morning I appointed
Ed. J.
Stier, Clerk District Court
and John T. Long, Commissioner and
Recorder the latter temporarily
until I can make an appointment of
some discreet & courageous lawyer.
<page break>
Had a long talk with Claypool
today he came to my office for
that purpose and if he isnt an
awful liar {(Nov. 7. He was!!)} he was friendly to me
in Washington D.C. this winter.
He thinks my enemies will beat me
but he says that they also said that the
President would not reappoint me
- which he did so their final success
may also be doubtful. Well if they
do defeat me they will have some scars
to remember the conflict by I
dont like Ben. Everetts arrival here
- I may do him an injustice but he
strikes me as a spy!
Krause, one of the three men to whom
I gave a lay on the lower 100 feet of my
claim off Discovery on Cleary Creek, left
<page break>
limit on the 21st March came in tonight
& reported that they had sunk the hole to
bed rock but with no success that they only
found colors. He is to see me tomorrow, though
& says they want to try it at a point 400
feet up from lower corner.
-3rd-
Let lay to Krause Date April 1st
Tomorrow is Election Day the
only fight is against Abe Spring!
Abe has made a good town officer &
I think has done more than any other
officer of Fairbanks to keep it out of
debt & push it along but has many
enemies and among them Edgar Wick
=ersham, Chief of Police, is most active
to defeat him. I have kept out of the
matter except to say a good work for
Abe when I could -
<page break>
-4th-
City Election Abe. Spring was
defeated, and it is my judgment
that it is a bad thing for the town!
for he was an organizer and a good
worker. Took dinner today with
Barnette, Joslin, Dr. Cassetts & Capt
Olson, at Miss Gleasons boarding
house.
-6th-
Charlie Joynt came up from Chena
yesterday afternoon with a horse &
cutter & I went back with him to
attend the Banquet to Falcon Joslin
the Tanana Mines Ry promoter. It
was held in the new Hall: Harrais
who formerly run the Chena Herald
and abused me each issue was the
<page break>
toastmaster, and recognized me
next to Joslin as the guest of honor,
and on one minutes notice asked
me to talk which I did : Joslin
the representative of the railroads
talked about governmental affairs
- so I talked about the Railroads
Took tea before the Banquet with Mrs.
Currier Mr. C. is now postmaster
& staid all night with old man Courtney
at the 1st Avenue Hotel, a log building
lined with calico. Heilig talked on
Alaska at the banquet, and flattered me
me like a damned hypocrite so
did Claypool who answered to the toast
of Our President. It is an interesting
study to hole their hands, and look
into their eyes with apparent candor
<page break>
while you feel the cold steel beneath
your fifth rib! Abe Spring aroused
a squabble while booming Fairbanks
while poor Burton of Chena was so
drunk that he couldnt even read
his fine frenzy on Chena.
Still the occasion was profitable in
that it brought the leading men of both
towns together in friendly exchange of
ideas. Capt. Olsen, the President
of the Fairbanks Chamber of Commerce
brought me home today he talked
to me in favor of inducing the Ry. Co.
to enter Fairbanks over the Cushman
St. bridge to occupy that street I told
him that I was opposed to the scheme
- he also disclosed his opposition to
opening the Chena river so that steamers
<page break>
could come to Fairbanks this in the
interest of the Rd. but on that subject
I said nothing. This evening I
mentioned the Cushman street pro
=ject to Abe Spring and one or two
others & I am sure it will be fought,
as it ought. If their railroad cant
do business in Fairbanks without
destroying our best street it had better
stay out. Geoerge A. Jeffrys
my former stenographer came in
from Valdez today.
-7th-
Mail two good letters from
Debbie & several of Darrells.
They make me so homesick
I do so want her with me.
Granted injunction in the suit of
<page break>
U.S. ex. rel. Two Indians v. Squatters
on the Indian lands at mouth of
the little Delta, & appointed John F.
Drake special officer to go and serve
papers. Sam. Wall, the special
representative of Hearsts (Democratic)
papers has reached Fairbanks. He is
one of the old Radebaugh gang
who blackmailed me years ago in
Tacoma, - and it has occurred
to me that it may mean a newspaper
war on me by my powerful enemies
It is amazing that so big a cannon
should be so constantly fired at so
small a target but they may
desire also to embarrass the President
in New York. Hope not, but fear it!
<page break>
Bought corner of Cowles west side
between 4th & 5th Ave. 125 X 150- $550.00
-8th-
Court today but only small case.
Claypool & Dillon came down and
spent the evening with me.
-9th-
Sunday. Have engaged Roberts
to stake 80 acres of coal for me on
the Wood River 50 miles southwest
- paid him $25.00 & am to pay him reasonable
wages for not to exceed 6 days.
-10-
April Term of Court.
Court opened this morning with
call of docket &c. Granted petition
of Chena for appointment of a
<page break>
Commissioner with Justice of Peace
powers only. Appointed
Genl. E. M. Carr.
Commissioner for Fairbanks in
place of John T. Long, resigned.
Carr came into the Yukon Alaska
down the Yukon river in 1882 3.
Came back to Rampart with McGraw
in 1897 & mined for two or three years
on Little Minook Creek. He came
in again this spring with a big outfit
& intends remaining here & is a
member of the firm of Carr & Nye.
-11th-
Court today business moving slowly
but expect to get to work tomorrow on the
trail of cases. Most exciting matter
now is the election of appointive officers
<page break>
by city council. Edgar is being fought
viciously by Dr. Medill, assisted by
Mosher & Kountz {Coutts} both the latter
constant
violators of the law, and living in open adultery
with women. Edgar has a strong support
and may win but they keep trying to drag
me into the melee though I have kept out
entirely. Have consented
to appoint
{leased my property by}
verbal lease only to Mrs. Card the Central
Restaurant - $125.00 per month in the summer
& $75.00 in winter, 2 years 2 ½ if she puts
second story on.
A fine 3 story building is going up
at the Corner of Cushman & Front St.
the Joslin Bank (Washington) is to go on
cor. Cushman & 2nd as also the Bonnifield
Bank on the other corner.
<page break>
-12-
Hensley v Fairbrom[?], Wright, et. al on trial.
Edgar was elected Town Marshal again
5 to 2. Beautiful weather.
-14th-
Wrote to Debbie. Bought half
interest in quartz claim on dome
between Granite & Steamboat Creeks
a mile west of Golden from A. C. Thompson
- who also staked claim (1) for Darrell
(2) for Allyn, Sr. & W.E. Clarke. Mrs.
Ella Card bought Haverys interest in
Central Restaurant & I gave her lease
for 2 ½ yrs. $100. per mo.
& I get
buildings at end of term. She is
now putting 2nd story on building
Whist party tonight at Judge Irwins
& I went with Lizzie.
<page break>
-15th-
Court work active decided case from
Chena today held that town council
could not grant wharf franchise on
navigable river and street so as to
damage fronting property owners
Beautiful weather fixing up the
interior of house & getting comforts
for Debbie when she comes The
last mail till break up went out
today. Will write no more but
will probably telegraph instead.
-16th-
Sunday. Prepared copy of an
Ordinance for Capt. Barnette who will
attempt to get town to dedicate the
waterfront of the Chena river between
east line of Cushman streets & the
<page break>
west line of Turner street as a
free open public city wharf. Took
dinner with Edgar & Lizzie & drew
order for tomorrow appointing
James, Justice of the Peace at
Chena.
-18th-
Court work preparing opinions
Miners Co-operative Assoc. v Monarch
Conradt v Miller Chena wharf case.
Town council passed ordinance dedi
=cating Front St. bet. Cushman & Turner
for public wharf & dock.
-19th-
H. K. Love of Utah brother to George Love of
Valdez appointed permanent land Agent in
Alaska by the President. I am afraid
that this means to strengthen the Ivey
<page break>
McKenzie push, since George is one of
their right hand men and it seems to
me that Jarvis having resigned Love
is the direct political representative
of the President, he is a Rough Rider
Edgar resigned as chief of Police
last night because the council insisted
on appointing his subordinates Tom
Parker was elected in his place.
-20th-
Beautiful weather spring. Decision
today in Miners Coop Assoc v. Monarch.
-22nd-
A hard week in court. Equity cases on trial
& every hour employed in hearing evidence or
preparing decisions. Mining clean up begun
& creeks reported good. Town improving
wonderfully a regular building boom.
<page break>
-24th-
Made contract of lease with Frank J.
Maess & Nichols to let Bench claim off
right limit Discovery, Wolf Creek, to them
Town ½ & they the other ½ - & they are to pay
me 16 2/3 % of gross output see lease.
Floral Ball at Century Hall
-25-
Mail, from Valdez letter from Debbie
& official mail nothing important
Court work important and heavy.
Mrs. Ella Card has completely remodeled
the old Central Restaurant, on my lot, as the
Cecil Cafι, put a second story on with private
dining rooms upstairs & has a fine place.
-26th-
The Chena river is rising fast & looks
like ice will go out in a day or two busy
in court-
<page break>
-27th-
Recd. Gov. Bradys report dated Oct
1, 1904, in which he criticises conditions
on the coast in my distinct at some length
in his endeavor to argue in favor of a
new District. He seems to have recd.
his misstatements from Ivey or Good
=ell, for they are stereotyped poor
old Brady he cant help it. He has
illuminated the otherwise waste places
-29-
Louis K. Pratt, lawyer, acted badly in
court today abused the opposite attorn
=eys & even the court fined him $50.00
-30-
Sunday worked in office all day
river rising but good for somedays
yet. Weather cold & not pleasant.
<page break>
[May 1905]
-May 1st-
Robins, ducks & geese have come.
L. K. Pratt. acts sullen & committee of
bar association Dillon, Hess and
Heilig advise making him pay &
purge himself of contempt but the
judgment was a fine to be collected
like other debts & I will not add the
humiliation of a public apology
but will wait for his next outbreak,
- will give a fair chance to be nice.
Have completed two more opinions
& will deliver same in morning.
Weather cool & river falling ice has
raised but will not go out for some
days yet. Reports from cleanups on
Creeks say that it is better than anticipated
- no one is disappointed except happily.
<page break>
-May 2-
Beautiful day river falling & ice will
not go out for several days yet.
Have finished fixing up cabin at
4th & Cowles St. costs me about $275.00
- lumber is almost prohibitive prices
Handed down opinions in two cases
today Runner vs. Woitke & Daigle v. Maddocks
Recd. telegram from Crocker Col. Int. Res
Tacoma, saying that continued reports of
personal bad conduct of Cameron, his
dep. here were reaching him & wanting me
to telegraph situation. I telegraphed
him saying that Dep. U.S. Marshal Drib
=elbis reported his conduct good &
to send him particulars of complaints
- that I had heard nothing bad here
<page break>
-May 5-
Ice still in place but much broken
- town is taking bridge up at the
foot of Cushman St. the ice having
raised the piles out of the ground.
greater than the miners had estimated.
Out walking with Harlan Hess quits
June 1 to go into the Bonnifield Bank
& Harlan now calls him narrow stingy
&c. and made sport of him as a banker.
Harlan suggested appointing Dodge
as Deputy I opposed it dont know
what he will do. Harlan remarks
about Hess counting over the figures
in his check book &c so much - & roasted
Condon & H about robbing Hd. men on Garden
Is. Its funny since only a few days ago
they were as thick as three in a bed.
<page break>
-May 7th-
The ice went out last night &
the Chena river is running clear today.
The event was unimportant - & a fizzle.
The bridge at Cushman street did not
go down even but fell today after
the ice had ceased to effect it. I
had company last night a pho=
nograph musicale Mr & Mrs Mc
Chesney, Wall & Charles the News
staff & we did not hear the ice go-!
Took dinner tonight with Capt.
& Mrs Barnette Dr & Mrs Chamberlan
{Carmicheal}
John & Mrs McGinn, Sullivan & I-
a fine dinner & handsomely served.
Prepared opinion yesterday & today
in Bechtol case held dower does
not attach to mining claims in Alaska.
<page break>
Charlie Joynt is now trying to inter
=est the miners on Cleary Creek in a
wood road down that stream to the
Chatnika river & I am giving him
assistance. Also made arrangement
today to loan Edgar $1500. to aid
him in putting up his new block.
-9th
Completed loan to Edgar took note
signed by him & Lizzie & assignment
of McChesney contract as security.
Amt. $1500 due July 15. Int 12% per
annum, - the usual rate here is
4. to 6.% per month!!
Telegraphic dispatches tonight
Capt. J. C. Hansen, of Nome, committed
suicide yesterday on trip from Seattle
<page break>
to Skagway by jumping overboard
from the steamer Dolphin. Poor
Hansen, he was a man of generous
impulses warm hearted but too
human! wine and women.
-10th-
I sent Ole Peterson, a big Swede out
to the Insane Asylum last fall & he
was discharged & came in again in March.
He seems to have brooded over his condition
& yesterday got drunk & today concluded
to kill me! He loaded his heavy Winchester
rifle with seven cartridges & filled his
pockets & came to the courthouse &
just as it happened I was out to lunch
He entered the court room & made his
way to my door he threatened the janitor
<page break>
- no body had the courage to do any thing
until George Dribelbis came in he
approached him from behind & after a
desperate struggle disarmed him.
He is now in jail awaiting an examination
as to his sanity poor Ole. I gave him
money & work when no one else would
& have befriend him but he seems to
think I am responsible for his troubles.
This may send him out again and if
it doesnt will give him much trouble.
Trying case of Cain v Staffrd-
-11th-
Cain v Stafford. The Florence S. first
steamer came up from Chena today.
Koyukuk launched :
<page break>
-12th-
Koyukuk went on an excursion down
to Chena tonight loaded with people.
Ole Peterson tried this afternoon
before jury for insanity he tried to
shoot up the court with his 30-40
two days ago. The evidence showed
that he was intent on shooting me because
I sent him out insane last fall
The Str. Tanana will leave Dawson
on Monday or Tuesday for Fairbanks.
- the evidence showed that his fixed
purpose in coming to the courthouse
& to my room with his gun was to kill me
- he also intended to kill Harlan
if he could - & then himself
a damn
<page break>
14th
Joined the Eagles
tonight they
have the top floor of the
new Fairbanks
Building & have finest lodge
rooms in
Alaska. Finished my opinion today
in Cascaden v Dunbar, et.
al. &
find for plaintiff it is
an interesting case
on an alleged Grubstake
contract.
-15th
Another highway hold up only
a mile
from town this afternoon
got but $20.00
but it shows the presence of
bad men.
John Noon an old
Colorado miner
tells me this afternoon that
he has found
float peacock copper
on summit on
the east side of Fox creek
I have prom
=ised him a grub stake to go
out & dig,
& he promised me a half interest.
<page break>
Dr. Krause who has lay on my claim
off Dis. on Cleary was first in to see me
- report is not bad nor very flattering
- but one or two holes will not discourage
me even they had been blanks.
Court every day & trying mining cases
- have my opinion in Cascaden v Dunbar
ready for Wednesday morning delivery.
Telegraphed to Debbie today asking her
if she wanted some money This
evening papers says Gov. Brady is
still having trouble with his department.
- hope he will be removed-
-16th-
Bonanza Case Affirmed.
The great copper case over which I
was so maliciously assailed by Heyburn
Senator from Idaho & other senators
<page break>
has been affirmed by the Circuit Court
of Appeals, at San Francisco this
& the McConnell case & Nelson in
Meehan all affirmed inside of ten
days. Mail in from Valdez today
but nothing from Debbie No answer
to my telegram either. Paid John Noon
$100. today for half interest in his
copper prospect on summits east
of Fox creek.
-18th-
Suit begun by four miners against
Harlan, Brown & others for jumping.
Trying Marston v Lloyd a case
where woman with raven wing hair
the form of a Juno the face of a Mad
=onna and the heart of whore jobbed
poor susceptible softhearted sapheaded
man out of his property & then
<page break>
kicked the fool out of the house.
Papers report that Gov. Brady is
again to be investigated! Hope he
will appreciate his recommendations
contained in his last report against
me! Just think Ill give him a prod:
Harlan is trying to make himself solid
with the gamblers now
-19th-
Learned today that gambling as
in full blast on Cleary creek called
Dribelbis in he said yes, that they had
now appointed Charlie Barber as a
field deputy out there & that the business
men (meaning the gamblers) were paying
his salary!! and that he had let
Barber manage things there &c
I called his attention to the daily
<page break>
hold ups one of which occurred
again yesterday to the alarming increase
of crime and the insolence of the
criminal class, & said in plain
& forceful language that the Marshals
office must (1) withdraw Barber & not
permit the gamblers to pay his salary
(2) close gambling on the creeks &
(3) keep the prostitutes out of saloons
& (4) round up the bad men and vag
them & run them out of the country
- in short attempt by immediate
attack to either rid the country of the
bad element. He promised compliance
& after consultation with Harlan &
Reynoldson (chief office deputy) they
telephoned out to Cleary creek ordering
the gambling to cease &c. Still
<page break>
I was not satisfied as they had
promised before so I wrote a strong
letter along the same lines addressed
to Perry & Harlan officially and gave
it to them requiring instant attempts
to control a situation which is bad &
rapidly becoming worse. They came
to talk & I suggested the wiring to
Perry & asking his consent to wire
asking Atty. Genl. to approve the
appointment of four more deputies
- we did so. Received
telegram
from Debbie today- that the Bonan
-za case had been affirmed- she will
be very proud of that and I am also-
-20th-
Things warm out at Cleary one
of the boss gamblers has announced
his determination to fight & today
<page break>
I instructed the deputy marshals
to get the evidence they telephoned out
to Barber to secure it at once he
wont want but one fight for I will
revoke his license. he evidently thinks
he is to have a jury trial with his friends
on the jury he will get a whack
of Roosevelts big stick. Reports
from Dawson that the Str. Tanana
the pride of our valley & the first steamer
to leave for Fairbanks was sunk by
running on a rock near 40 Mile.
-23-
Court yesterday but this forenoon
I went out with the road workers & we
cut out a new road beginning at Youngs
house on the east side of Noyes slough
down the side of the slough toward
Ester Creek 5 or 6 miles.
<page break>
court this afternoon. The
Str. Koyukuk came in tonight on
her first trip from Ft. Gibbon hay.
-25-
Court work pressing heard case
Smith v Cascaden decided today in
favor of Cascaden. Gambling at
Cleary is raising a pretty row the
boss gambler out there resists & has so
threatened & complained that the Marshal
today shut up the games in Fairbanks
- I did not want this done but cant
help it, since I wont assist one
and not another but must oppose
all when it is made an issue. The
business element here in Fairbanks
is aghast for they all want gambling!
We are only trying to clean out the bad
<page break>
mess out on the creeks
trying to
drive the bad men to town, so that they
can either be controlled or driven down
the river and the saloon element
wont help Barnette came in to see
me this evening & says that immediate
action will be taken to cure the evils
at Cleary if it is purged of its
evil doers all right if not, then the
games must cease even in Fairbanks.
Have about finished tent &c. ready
for Debbie.
[captions:] Kitchen Sitting Room 14 X 16
Tent Door 10 X 12 Bedroom
Plan of our house with tent bed room.
Strs. from Dawson ought to be here
tomorrow Rock Island & Tanana
<page break>
-26th-
Steamboat!!
The steamer Tanana from Dawson
came in today & is now safely moored
at Fairbanks dock. Mr & Mrs Perry
transferred from Rock Island at a wood
yard yesterday & came in on the Tanana
The Rock Island is in Chena tonight Mrs
Heilig & Mrs. Reynoldson are on board.
-27th-
Loaned Edgar $250. more today-
making $1750. in all his new building
is about done & will bring him in $550.
a month! Gold train from creeks today
brought in $400,000 20 {mounted} men armed with
Winchester rifles loaded pack mules &c.
Am invited to make an address at the
launching of the White Seal, the
<page break>
first registered vessel to be
launched
on the Tanana! Also first
railroad material ever brought into
the Tanana country was unloaded
at Chena today from the Rock Island.
The old has passed the new arrived.
Launching of the White Seal
a success. Genl. E. M. Carr acted
for the boat I made a short address
& Mrs. Noyes broke a bottle of
Champagne over the bow & christened
the boat. Her owners are Sproul, Coleman
& Smith. Neil McLeod launched her.
-30th-
Decoration Day no court but plenty
of work on cases. Am busy also
preparing a letter of 72 interrogatories
for Gov. John G. Brady to answer
<page break>
He criticised this division in his
report of Octo 1, 1904 to the Sec. of the
Interior and I am insisting upon
his proofs. Sent copy to the Sec of
the Int. & to Atty. Genl. Boats
coming & going in Chena river better
than last year. Roediger & wife
from Dawson 3 are here he has sold
the News to McChesney.
-31-
Telegrams from Valdez today
asking for appointment of Goddell
as Comr. at Sunrise Al. White also
came to intercede for his appt and
I have weakly yielded although I know
he lacks force of character & ought
not to be appointed. His family is
his only excuse - & not enough I fear.
<page break>
2nd Ave. to Perry for $2500.
Gambling was turned loose last
night again Perry has the
matter in charge!
[June 1905]
-June 4th-
Have been very busy this week in trying
equity cases - & in preparing opinions the
last two days & today (Sunday) all day in
preparing opinion in Heine v Roth.
My weakness in appointing Goddell
induces Oscar Fish to telegraph me
today asking me to appoint
him deputy
clerk! which I will not do. Nothing
yet from outside but reports are that
Lake LaBarge is now open & Debbie
can now come think she will start
today Painting & papering courtroom
<page break>
June 6th 1905.
Five years ago today President
McKinly appointed me Judge in
this district President Roosevelt
has reappointed me four times
owing to strong fight made against
me by Senators Hansborough &
McCumber the McKenzie senators
from N.Dak. & Ankeny of Washington
& Heyburn of Idaho! Had Mr
& Mrs. Perry for dinner with me
this evening in honor of our survival.
Hard at work on Equity cases
Wild roses in bloom in our yard-
-June 7th-
Trial Berks v Sigler mining case.
Debbie has not telegraphed so I
presume she is coming without it.
<page break>
-June 9th-
Case of Berks v Sigler dec-
=ision for Sigler Claypool & Stevens
for Berks & are ugly Stevens is
particularly cranky arrogant &
unpleasant. But I pay no attention
to him and decide as I think it
ought to be. Finished preparation
of my opinion in Reeden v Harlan
- an important one today.
Nothing from Debbie yet.
-10th-
Telegram from Debbie is at
Dawson & leaves on Susie
on
Monday here about 18th.
Opinion in Redden v Harlan-
a whack at wild cat staking.
<page break>
-12th-
My decision in the case of Redden
v Harlan, et. al. is considered as an
important one, and as striking a
blow at the speculative reservation
of mineral ground by the use of the
power of attorney, &c. I think, myself,
that if the principles announced
are lived up to by miners and the
lawyers it will result in more work
in developing mines than formerly.
Debbie leaves Dawson today on the
Susie with Ed & Mrs. Harlan - &
will be here about the 17th the day
she reached here last year.
Am making fine flower & vegetable
garden have gardner assisting
me - & have fixed tent sleeping room
& house good enough for a bride.
<page break>
Mail today from outside
& received office supplies- &
Charlie Joynts new bridge
across the Chena river at the foot of
Cushman street is about done & is
a credit to his enterprise & ability.
He is now engaged in building the
new $20,000 highway to the creeks.
-14th-
Busy preparing opinion in Conradt
v Miller, et. al. involving the power of the
town council to grant wharf franchises.
One effect of my recent decision that
discovery is necessary to hold a mining
claim is that the machinery men have sold
all boilers on hand useful for sinking
discovery shafts work has begun
<page break>
on many claims which have
hereto
=fore remained in a state of reservation
only, held by stakes & a notice!!
-15-
Have my opinion done in Conradt
v Miller et. al. town councils cannot
grant wharf franchises! Debbie
ought to be in Tanana or Ft. Gibbon
now & here on Sunday! Have
heard by telephone that Maess & my
laymen on 1st bench right limit off
Discovery on Wolf Creek opposite
Dis. on Cleary had struck it rich.
Hope so, - think they are good men &
miners also have confidence in their
honesty.
<page break>
-18th-
Str. Tanana due in Chena this eve
ning Debbie & Mrs. Harlan aboard.
Went down to Chena on the Str. White
Seal Str. Tanana about 7. p.m.
-19th-
We were 6 hours getting up from
Chena last night the Chena is the
lowest known. Debbie well & stronger
than last year.
-20th-
Working an opinion in Indian case
George A Jeffry came back to me
today. He will now understand that
he must be both sensible & loyal.
he is all that but let Stevens carry
him off his feet two years ago-
<page break>
Getting the house into shape &
taking our meals with our Miss
Thompson from Eagle, who has bought
Mills & Johansons house just east of us.
Sidewalk now in front of our block &
down west side. Business houses are
building all around us. Major Miller
- recently married is building dwelling on
back end of his lot opposite the mill.
-24th-
Decisions today in U.S. v Berrigan, in
which I sustained rights of Tanana Indians
& Steele v Tanana Mines Ry Co. right of way.
Am up with civil equity business Jury
will be called Monday civil business.
My garden is looking fine & only need
rain to develop nicely. Dr. Moore & Miss
Lena Roberts from Tacoma married by
Judge Carr Thursday evening.
<page break>
-25-
Gentle rain today not enough-
Holdups daily on trail to mines
F. M. Caldwell held up yesterday &
robbed. The News editorially criticises
Marshals office for inefficency.
-26th-
Trial Jury today - & cases heard.
Bandit holding people up on trail
daily Perry seems to be paralyzed.
-27th-
Perry is quoted in evening
paper
as saying that he has no authority to
attempt to capture highwayman he
made a bad break - & is incorrect from
a legal point. Much criticism has
been aroused by Perrys failure to do
something to protect the public
<page break>
-28th-
Jury trials every day. Am to deliver
4th of July Oration & am to marry
Miss Noyes and Harry Chisholm
tomorrow evening at home in Graehl.
Railroad to Chena done Sunday!
-30th-
Rains for some days are raising the
river heavy drift against the upper
or Wendle Ave. bridge & river rising.
Late tonight jam carried away upper
bridge & came down against Cushman
St. bridge in great masses.
[July 1905]
-July 1st-
River cutting around town side of drift
at Cushman street incompetent town
officials cut drift on lower or town
side & Cushman street bridge total
<page break>
wreck blowing up bridge & jam with
dynamite river rising & general rains.
Cushman street & Front cut out by the
current nearly to buildings 40 feet.
Railroad bridges carried away & the
Cushman street bridge gone the Railroad
Celebration postponed.
July 2nd 1905.
The Str. Isabelle in attempting to
assist in damming the cut at Cushman
St. backed against the swinging draw
& overset it ruining it completely.
The Wilbur Crimmins pulled the drift
out & the river is clear except for the
ruined draw. The are filling the
cut with brush & have sunk some old
hulls & the cut is under control-
Although a half acre of Front St. is
gone.
<page break>
-July 3rd
Raining hard & river raising
but cut in Cushman St. is stopped.
The Apple block is undermined some
- the cut extended 60 feet into the
street. River high & many boats.
Bratnober has arrived with his new
Str. Ella a fine light draft boat -
she is going to the upper waters of the
Tanana. Telegraphed Valdez to Hazlett
to reserve corner lot for me & one for Al
White.
-July 4th-
River rising but little rain flood
higher than I have ever seen the Chena.
Ella left for Upper Tanana. The
rain & disaster have ruined the celebration
- no 4th- no speeches just rain
& high water.
<page break>
-July 5-
Court jury trial
River bank full & rising.
It is now threatening the lower
part of town where many of the
houses are already flooded &
abandoned. From 7 to 10
tonight time I write raised
more than an inch an hour.
Clear & quit raining.
-6th-
The rapidly rising waters have
become a calamity hundreds of
people have been driven from their
homes in the lower grounds & it is
a threat to every one tonight. It is
yet rising & a foot more will
flow into our house, which is
<page break>
one of the highest It is now
flowing across the streets - & business
is dead people are surprised &
discouraged & do not know what to
expect. It really hurts the Ry. more
than any other one interest, for not
only are its own bridges gone but
also the Cushman St bridge by which
the Ry expected to cross from Garden Is.
into Fairbanks. The loss of sawlogs
is great - $25,000, - and all bridges
to the creeks are also gone. The general
feeling tonight is one of discouragement
-7th-
The river is rapidly falling the sun
is shining people feel better & things
are better tonight than for a week
past. All the low places are over
flowed, everything is dirty & it will
<page break>
take quite awhile to repair the
losses. Trying jury case for
2 days involving rights of town lot
claimants vs mining locators at
Cleary City.
-8th-
Jury out in Cleary City case - - still
raining some but river going down-
-9th
Str Genl Jeff C. Davis, in from Ft.
Gibbon Major & Mrs Stamper, Capt
& Mrs. Bain on board report Major
Richardson on Lavelle Young here
in a few days. Graves, president
& Rogers, manager White Pass Ry.
here inspecting the land. Jury
hung in Gates city case.
<page break>
-July 17th-
Driving of the last spike
in Railroad from Chena to
Fairbanks. Ceremonies on
Garden Island at terminus
of Ry- Judge Carr presented
the first spike to me: I
then delivered Address &
then Mrs. Isabelle Barnette
drove the Golden Spike.
Excursion to Chena-
Grand Jury on 12th.
Trials daily & much work.
Felix Pedro & Hanot report
strike on upper waters of
Chena or across divide.
<page break>
-20th-
McChesney could not pay for the
corner of Cushman & 3rd where the
News office stands, so to secure
my advances of $2000. to Edgar
I had McChesney deed to me &
I will take it for the loan.
Engaged in trials civil & criminal
Court crowded & busy-
-27-
Things going fine jury trial
now criminal cases. Will
hear Perovich & Owens cases
next week. Major Richardson &
Lt. Pillsbury Road Comrs. are
here Major Clum P. O. Ins.
this week, & thinks he will accept
the office of P.M. here himself
<page break>
-29th-
Major Richardson & Lt.
Pillsbury, U.S. Road Commissioner
took spent evening yesterday
with us. General Gresley
due in day or two. Str. Lotta
Talbot came up and anchored
above Turner St. bridge today
R. J. Davis of Tacoma is aboard
& in charge P. Cold Stor. Co-
Trouble with Dr Hall, & S. A.
Charles, newspaper reporter for
not answering questions before
Grand Jury fined Charles $1.00
for contempt- I suppose now
Ill have a new crop of enemies
<page break>
[August 1905]
Aug 4th
Since last Monday have been
engaged in trying case of U.S. v.
Yuko Perovich for the murder
of Jacob Jaconi on Oct 29th
1904. The jury returned a
verdict this morning of
Guilty of Murder first degree
& that the prisoner suffer death.
Prof. George Byron Gordon, Prof
of Ethnology in U. of Penn. took
dinner with us yesterday He
is studying the Athapascan tribes
of the Tanana & wished to go
into the Kuskokwim. Bar
Assoc. & others working for div
=ision of this Dist & a resident
judge. Grand jury in its report
<page break>
yesterday kindly urged my own
continuance as resident judge
& last evening a com. of that
body presented me with resolutions
strongly in that favor. Barnette
the Banks, the RR, & others working
& the miners generally friendly to
it. The News & the N.C. also.
-7th-
Capt. & Mrs. Barnette left this
evening for outside He will go
to Washington & log roll some
for Alaska the City Council, the
Cham. of Com. & Bar Assoc. have
also asked him to urge my reapp
-ointment. Began 2nd trial
of U.S. v Harry Owens today
<page break>
-9th-
Paper tonight announces that
my letter of 73 interrogatories
addressed to Gov. Brady has
been sent to the Pres. by the Sec.
of the Interior, - and the Brady
- Wickersham controversy is
now on -= Still trying Owens.
-13th Sunday.
Tried Owens for murder of Carl Chris
=tiansen at Forty Mile in Nov. 1901, all
week verdict yesterday Not Guilty.
This is the second radically bad verdict
at this term Hendricksen & Owens
were both viciously guilty but soft hearted
& soft headed jurors acquitted them.
Hendrickson sawed a log out from under
=neath his bunk a day or so ago and
escaped but it was not necessary.
He had better trusted the jury!!
<page break>
Business of the court seems at a
standstill dont know whether I can
get away on the last boat or not.
Debbies health good she is better
than she was last summer.
Papers say that Darrells vessel
Tacoma is back to Annapolis, Md.
from France with body of John Paul
Jones. Rainy summer - & the river
high & rising no danger of a general
flood but bridges may go out again.
Lawyer Dundas & wife from Paris, Ill.
in town for a few days Volney Richmond
Agt. N. C. married Friday {Thursday}
evening to a Miss
Mero Town slightly dull
Writing opinion in application to open
judgement in Nelson & H v Meehan & L.
& other submitted cases. Town Council
passed friendly resolutions asking for my
reappointment.
<page break>
-16th-
Three days spent in trial of U.S.
v Sturtevant verdict Not Guilty
This pretty well disposes of criminal
cases & it begins now to look as if
I can get out on last boat.
Tanana Bar Assoc. has passed
very strong & complimentary reso
=lutions for division of my district
& my reappointment.
20th-
Criminal cases all done jury
civil cases next. Mr. F. W. Dundas
& wife from Paris, Ill visiting here.
She is an artist & has made bas relief
of my head & shoulders!
<page break>
-23rd-
today to visit Darrell
She left on the Monarch via
Dawson. Dundas & wife went
on same boat to Rampart.
Court business pressing
every moment. Played two
games 9 pins tonight & have
started in to build up strength.
When Debbie left I gave her
out of our hoard a thousand
dollars & more! which is
remarkable in that we should
have so much-
-24th-
48 years old today
<page break>
-26th-
Have been trying equity case of
Boone v Manley &c. for partition
of 4 Below Mining Co. 2 days.
Claypool & wife called at
courthouse and invited me to
dinner tomorrow evening!!
Also Johansen is so damned
mad because I decided his
lawsuits against him that he
now threatens to go to Washington
& work against me, notwithstanding
his request to do otherwise by the
Bar Assoc : Cham. of Com &c!!
Its a great chance to accumulate
enemies is the judgeship
Beautiful day!!
<page break>
Sunday 27th
Beautiful day. Claypools invi
=ted me to dinner today & I accepted
& had a nice home dinner & good
visit. Tom McGowan talked
to Johansen who is mad but
says he will either go and perform
his duty or resign! First Claypool
then McGinn & now Johansen
all mad because I decided cases
against them but its like
sea sickness nobody dies &
all recover. River rising it
has been high all summer.
The Kantishna stampede attracting
much attention 500 people
there & more going will appoint
Van Slyke. Com. there!
<page break>
-28th-
Finished hearing testimony in
Boone v Manley, for partition
of 4 Below Mining Co. ground
= 4 & 5 below & side claims on
Cleary Creek - $500,000. involved
Briefs are to be filed & decision
soon as maps can be made-
Jury case tomorrow
Lunch with McGowan & Johansen
today Jo: professes friendship
with bad grace but promises
to be good=
[September 1905]
Sep 3rd
Rented the house on 1st to Mr &
Mrs Smith, agent, Cold Storage Co.
for $35. per month for the winter.
Fixed it up, papered ceilings after
covering with lumber for warmth,
<page break>
covered tent also with lumber to keep
the snow from breaking it in. I will
sleep in tent until I go about 16th
Mail today two letters from Darrell
to his mother- a letter from Judge Allyn
enclosing a kind letter from Judge Day.
Johansen goes down river tomorrow
morning & will spend Dec. in Wash
=ington City, in my interest & for division
of the District.
-5-
Trying jury cases, but will finish this
week. Also trying equity cases between
hours and in extra moments. Worked
till eleven on the bench last night.
Have made an order appointing
Mr. Lee Van Slyke, formerly from
Tacoma and more recently a dep. Clerk.
<page break>
Commissioner to the new Kantishna Precinct
embracing the Kantishna river watershed
& all that part of the Kuskokwim in the
3rd Division &c: Order Sep. 1, 1905.-
-6th-
Morton E. Stevens Claypools partner
today asked for a jury trial upon the
ground that as Barnette was interested
he & his associates believed it their duty
to intimate to the court that Barnette
was generally successful &c. & was
friend of the courts - & talk &c. that it
would relieve the court if the case was
tried by a jury. I denied the motion in
dignified tones & language upon the law
points involved. It was a peice of
malicious and deliberate effrontery
put up by Claypool on account of his
inordinately jealous and small character
<page break>
and because he has been losing his
business on account of his dissolute habits
and character. He talks loudly against me
on the street and everywhere & I thought that
the attempt yesterday was to provoke me to
action and try and pose as an injured person.
I will be surprised if I get through the
term without a row with him although
I will without the insult is so outrageous
as to exhibit cowardice on my part.
They were beaten in jury cases this week of
some importance to them and are ugly at me
although I was extremely particular in my
rulings and instructions.
parties & counsel to go to Fairbanks
Creek on Sunday & view the holes in
dispute in the case of
Nelson & H. v Meehan & L.
<page break>
-7th-
=pool & Stevens are interested for trial
on Monday 11, & notified Claypool
who said that Stevens was on a
drunk and could not probably be
sobered up so as to try them!!
Poor devils they are to be pitied!
Have just about finished up the
business of the term & can get
away about the 18th
-8th-
Jail Break No 2. Three
prisoners: Perovich, under sentence
of death for the murder of Jacobi, Emmett
theif and Thorton, horse theif escaped.
but Perovich was recaptured during
the night the other two still at large.
The two theives out a hole through the
<page break>
roof of the water closet - & first escaped.
Perovich went into the closet a few minutes
afterward & evidently seeing the hole, also
crawled out. The jail is a poorly constructed
log house, built in 1903 at a cost of $1750,
when labor & material was both scarce and
high. The Marshal was not to blame.
-10-
Rose at 5:30, breakfast at restaurant, -
train at 6:0 first passengers over track to
Gilmore, horses at Gilmore & rode to
No. 3. A. on Fairbanks with Genl. Carr
& Deft. Larson : met Nelson at No. 3.
lunch - & examined old Nelson hole
also shafts on each side cleared
out old tunnel bottom of old Nelson
ice clearly exposed 6 ft from bedrock,
&c. horses back to Gilmore, train to
town bath, tired as hell & sore. Rode
28 miles on horseback.
<page break>
-12-
Snow storm last night
3 or four inches of snow quite
like winter. Working night &
day to clean up the docket will
probably get away by 18th or 20th
-13th-
Received letter today from Colonel
Blethen Seattle Times taking me
to task for sending copy of my
interrogations to Clark & not to
Times. It seems that instead of
sending the copy to Henderson
as per my letter, George sent
it direct to Clark and I
now understand how it got into
print! I dont blame the Times
but I do think Clark ought to
have been more careful!!!
<page break>
-15-
Wrote to Col. Blethen, Seattle Times,
explaining sending of interrogatories,
to Walter E. Clark, about which he
complained.
Sentenced Vugo Perovich to be hanged
for the murder of Jacob Jaconi.
Decided Nelson & Hensley v Meehan
& Larson vacated to former judgment.
Partitioned Nos 4 & 5, creek & 4 & 5
side claims on Cleary Creek.
Finished last case for trial. Only
have to close up odds & ends appeals
& the like and then am ready to go.
Ralph Merrill here engineer &
will work for N.C. Co.
<page break>
-16th-
Sold 18 volumes of Ency. of Pld.
& Pr. belonging to Arthur G. Thompson
of Yakataga, to McGinn & Sullivan
for $126.00 - $7.00 per volume.
Thompson demands $200. for these
& the Ency. of Law -= 31 vols. 1st Ed.
and I may have to pay him for all
& trust to being able to sell the
31 vols for the difference-
Busy closing up the motions for
new trial, and signing orders &c. on
appealed cases. Am finished with
all trials, and all public business
requiring further court time.
The press of important and valuable
litigation before the court at this term
has roused the revengful disposition of
some persons attorneys and clients
<page break>
and I am informed that 3 attorneys
and three or four clients have preferred
some sort of charges of unfairness
against me at Washing- the attorneys
include Miller & de Journal and either
Stevens or Claypool or both. Their com
=plaints are so palpably unfair and
unjust that I shall, of course, pay no
attention to them.
The lawyers met in the courthouse
tonight at my invitation to a smoker
- all present except Miller he is a
thoroughly dishonest shyster! Busy
signing judgments, decrees, & orders on
appeal. I am afraid of the Smith family!
He is the Mgr. of the Pac. Cold Storage Co. from
Tacoma, - she is his wife, they have rented
my house, and the few days that I saw
them there quite frequently make me fear
<page break>
that he is a gambler and she a drinker.
I have had to send one of the P.C. S. Co. mgr.
to the pen. for embezzlement of the Co. funds!
-Sunday 17th-
Learned this morning that the Tanana
would leave here at 3 oclock this after
=noon for Ft. Gibbon to connect with the
Hannah. Packing, and getting ready
to up, - signing decrees, and orders on
appeal. Signed partition decree in
Boone v Manley, and order vacating former
judgment in Nelson & Hensley v Meehan
& Larson, &c. &c. The Harlans Jeffry,
and I ready Tanana left Fairbanks
at 3 oclock, with good list of passengers.
Meehan & Larson, Brady, Iver Johnson,
Billy Bass, &c. Am glad to get away
from the crush of months past
<page break>
-18th-
Ft. Gibbon arrived about 1 oclock,
- no steamer in sight but saw her
smoke in two hours & Hannah
arrived there about 5 p.m. Went up
to St James Mission with Rev. Young,
& met Rev. Prevost and Dean Stuck
of the Episcopal Church. Prevost in
charge here, - nice church Indian
village &c. Corbusier, N. C. mail
man recently married to a nice Kentucky
girl Rodman N. C. manager here will be
married tomorrow to another by Dean
Stuck. Richmond, at Fairbanks, a
month ago. Grace of Circle City later, makes
four of the young managers of the N.C.
to take brides this fall! On board
Hannah leave here early in the
morning unloading freight-
<page break>
-19th 19th
Reached Rampart at noon, - will
stay here till mignight unloading
freight. Inspected Commissioner
Greens office &c. Visited with Heeter
proprietor & Callahan editor of the
Yukon Valley News, also Duncan
of N. C. & Kelterer of N.A.T. Find
that Wingate is as bilious as ever &
has just received a new press from Juneau
- from Heid evidently! Allen told
me that McGowan had recently offered
to procure for Wingate a settlement of
his fight on me by which Wingate would
have a position &c. and
that Wingate
had been considering it. Evidently
the Heid press came ahead of McGowans
offer and barred it. I will insist
that no foolish talk be indulged in
<page break>
with Wingate by McGowan or any one
else on my behalf, - he is a scoundrel
& utterly untrustworthy and harmless!
It will do more harm for them to talk
such nonsense to him than he can do.
Callahan, as Ed. News, gave me strong
letter of endorsment as judge.
I find a good feeling of friendship
in Rampart for me-
-20th-
The strs. Seattle No 3 & Monarch
passed Rampart last night for
Fairbanks both heavily loaded & with
barges filled with machinery.
Ft. Hamilin at noon flats this
afternoon I sleep till noon, but
my eyes are failing me fast. must
quit smoking, &c. Snow on the
ground at Rampart - and
<page break>
still snowing none in the
Tanana and the winter seems
nearer here than in that valley.
-21st-
Passed Str. Herman in the night
- loaded with crude oil for fuel
- N.C. tanks Circle City.
Major Richardson, U.S.A. and Alaska
road commissioner is on board, also
Prindle & U.S. Geological party,
Witherspoon, of U.S. Geo. Dept. & one
of his assistants came on from the
Herman last night. Snowing
- cloudy - & winter good stage
of water, though, and we are making
good time. Ought to be in Ft. Yukon
tonight. Resting but my eyes
are troubling me.
<page break>
-22nd-
Ft. Yukon. The main channel of the
Yukon river now flows past old Ft Yukon
- for several years it flowed several miles
to the west across the low flats but last
year it changed back The glory of the old
past, however, has departed its old cemetery
of dead Hudson Bay employes of 1854-60
is overgrown & gone to decay the Indians
have gone to other posts Jack Carr & his
wife (Jack Spratt & his wife so far as leanness
& fatness go) run a store and mail contract
business, - Beaumont, Furch, Canadian
trader & whisky peddler, keeps a post and a
few Indians in detached huts make up the
little settlement and Miss Woods the Episcopal
school teacher. One young Indian mother
whose three year old boy is so exactly an image
of Mountifield, the N.A. T. Agent as to suggest
<page break>
pre-natal impressions - &c. Mrs. Carr gave me
this bit of scandal. Beaumont has just
returned from New York, with a girl wife no
older than Mabel his daughter the old
scoundrel one can see the future tragedy
lying in his foul action, and the ruin of the
life of this young creature Mabel is as
sharp as a tack and is credited with great
sales of whisky to Indians. She seems to
be very intelligent I dont understand the family!
Gathered a sack of rose bushes, spruce trees,
&c. with seeds of wild flowers for an Arctic bed
for mother or the park in Tacoma or Seattle.
Left Ft Yukon at noon & late in the evening
we found the str. Sarah high on a bar
tied up for the night near her to get her off in
the morning. This will put us back a day or so.
-23rd-
With Str. Sarah pulling & puffing but she
is still fast on the bar. Staid with her
<page break>
all day the Str. Hermann with
oil barge the Sarah and Hannah
burn crude oil came up this evening.
-24th-
Still standing by the Sarah. Have
pulled with hawser several times but
she is a solid on the sand as if she
grew there they are now den whishing
the tanks and intend to utilize the
oil barge to receive the live stock &
freight of the Sarah so that she may be
hauled off while lightened. Abe Spring
is on board Sarah bound to Fairbanks
with his electric light plant for Cleary Creek.
He came over & gave me the gossip from
Seattle. Says Senator Piles is friendly
& will help me that there is no fight
on me in Seattle, &c. Dick Woods
sister on board going to Fairbanks &c
<page break>
and says that Barnette was sued
at Seattle on his old contract made
at St. Micheal in 1902 with Costen
- partnership contract in mining, &c &c.
-25-
We left the Sarah early this morning
- the Herman standing by her, - and
reach Circle this afternoon. Called
on the Votaws talked over business
matters with him he is doing well and
is pleased with the office & place Also
looked over the town &c. boat remained
but a short time.
-26th-
Between Circle & Eagle. A row on
board about rooms the purser under
took to keep No 26 staked out for his
lady friend = and let others sleep on
the floor & sassy women interviewed
him he ought to be interviewed by his
<page break>
employers. I was changed from my
room & put in with Major Richardson-
-27-
Eagle City. Reached Eagle early
this morning & met U. G. Myers, the
Comr. & others. Eagle looks the same
& my heart goes out in memory of the
town & Howard I can hardly realize
that my life with him is dead Our old
home looks shabby & is going slowly
to decay Snowing and winter is here.
There has been a steady fall of light
snow since we left Tanana and
it is an unusual experience to me
to ride in a steamer on this part of
the river while all the earth is white
with the winters snows. They tell me
that Debbie passed here all right &
on time.
<page break>
-28th-
Remained at 40 Mile last
night and reached Dawson this
afternoon. Could not get rooms at the
Regina crowded Isom, mang. N. A. T.
is here. Rooms at White House. Bath.
Dinner with American Consul Ravendal
& Orr. at Regina restaurant. John
Stone interviewed me wants a divorce
- but plainly told him that he could not
get it until he resided in Alaska 2
years.
29th
Called & met Judges Craig & McCauley
of Yukon Ty. Court. Judge Craig
looks like a judge and is one -
McCaully is of the Steve OBrien
type and was actually a schoolmate
<page break>
with Steve. Dr. Coleman, Harry Johnston
& is a friend of Ashton. I like the looks
of Judge Craig very much. Lunch with
Mr & Mrs. Orr. Called at News office
& saw Roediger & McIntire, but did
not have time to go to house. The
White House is run by a Mrs. Bulter
she evidently has a dash of Creole blood
and is the embodiment of voluptuous
lust glad I escaped : Rodgers of the
White Pass Ry. is one of her star boarders
and recommended us to go there.
Judge Craig & McCaully their wives &
Mrs Roediger & Nellie also Consul Ravendal
were at the landing when I left. The
World Dawson paper had a fine puff
about my work in Alaska and I
was treated very nice in Dawson.
Left at 3 oclock on Selkirk for
Whitehorse.
<page break>
-30-
Passed White River early this morning
- beautiful clear day snow on the
mountains, making good time.
[October 1905]
Octo 3rd
We reached Whitehorse at 1 oclock
today too late, of course, to catch the
train. The Jefferson leaves Skagaway
tomorrow & we will catch it so it
doesnt make any difference. Went
out to Whitehorse Rapids with Billy
Bass, - have room in new Columbia
Hotel they are rebuilding since the fire
of a few weeks ago No news
-4th-
Left Whitehorse at 10 a.m. the
Casca hove in sight & we waited for
her. Dinner at Bennett & reached
<page break>
Skagway at 5 oclock the Steamer
Jefferson in port. Invited to dinner
with Major Richardson. Rodgers
& Newell of the White Pass Ry. & Wynn
- Johnson at the Pullen House
Left Skagway at 8 oclock for
Juneau Str Jefferson is a fine
new steamer large & comfortable.
-5-
Juneau at 6 a.m went to the
Occidental hotel & slept till 10.
Wrote letters to Atty. Genl. sending
in my account to Sept. 30, and
also salary vouchers for April,
May, June, July, August, & September
- 6 months, & also wrote asking
leave during November & Dec
Bath & just as I was ready
to be comfortable the whistle
<page break>
of the Excelsior sounded
Sent package of Ft Yukon shrubs
to mother wrote to Debbie & also
to George T. Reid sent him a
draft in favor of Edgar bal. on
his Hamilton contract of $688.65
Loaned George A. Jeffry the
sum of $350.00.
Met Lt. Hoggatt also Dautrick,
Frame, Jennings, Churchill et. al.
& had short but pleasant visit.
Hoggatt says that the Special Ex
=aminer sent out to examine into
Gov. Bradys affairs returned East
yesterday I just missed him
one day - & I am glad of it.
Left Juneau at 8 p.m
on Excelsior
<page break>
-6th-
Sitka Met Kostrometrioff
visited Greek Church called on
Bishop Innocent sleeping & could
not see him saw & visited Genl. Distin
& Cablegram office. Saw Gov. Brady
at a distance no talk no answer
to my interrogatories except that
he said in the newspaper that I
was unfit to be judge!! Reynolds
also wrote letter but he honestly
acknowledged the matter & paid
me a compliment. Distin
& Brady at swords points!
Saw Bishop Rowe also
Ed Miller, Rochford & on board
Put to sea smooth.
<page break>
-7th -
Yakutat at 5 p.m at Stimsons
cannery Weather good we
suffered some by rolling but
otherwise trip fair.
-8-
Yakataga Beach at day
break, and Kayak island
tonight. We have litteraly
rolled thus far the Excelsior
is as unstable as a barrel in
water. Have not been sea sick
yet but only escape by going
to bed. Learned today that the
Gov Brady will use extracts
from my address of 2 years ago
in his annual report as argument
against territorial government.
<page break>
- probably he could not
find one 3 years old!!
If we only had a Governor
who could prepare a state
document with figures to date
or even a year ahead it
would be an advantage to
Alaska.
-9th-
Nuchek the old sea otter station
- at day break Orca at noon
& Ellamar tonight unloading
freight & delivering mail Raining
& blowing like sixty. We will
be at the Valdez wharf in the morning.
-10th-
Valdez at 8 oclock. Went
to the St. Elias Hotel - saw
<page break>
Crandall, Lathrop, Judge
Lyons & the lawyers & found
no work for the present. Have
concluded that since I must
go to Seward that I will
continue on the Excelsior this
trip Crandall will go with
me taking the naturalization
records with him as there are
several persons there who desire
to declare their intention to become
Am. citizens. Visited around town
- the Rosene railway party is busy
building from what is called the
New Town on the north side of the
bay but particularly in the
Keystone Canyon while the old
Helm outfit is making pretence
of doing some work near town
<page break>
& across the flat toward Keystone
Canyon The town shows no sign
of life or activity and the glacial
stream hurt it badly this summer
Left on boat at 4 p.m. after
sending telegrams to Stier, at
Fairbanks.
-11th-
Seward, at 9 this morning
Met Messrs. Clegg, Hildreth,
Wybant Sexton also Poland,
& Stewart of the Alaska Central
Ry. Took dinner
{lunch} with Poland
at noon present Poland, Stewart,
Hale, banker, Ballaine, Dr. Burns,
Judge Morford, Hildreth, Sexton,
Wybant, & Jack , a friend
of Judge Senator Turners! Have
made all arrangements to go out
<page break>
over the line of the road tomorrow
& then hunting out on north shore of
Kenai Lake for moose, or bear &c
Stopping of Hotel McNeilly.
-12th-
{W. B.} Poland, general manager of the
Alaska Central Ry. and Hildreth, com
=missioner at Seward, have arranged
that I go out with a small party and
view their road as far as the track is
laid, then go down Lake Kenai for
a hunt. We left Seward at 9 oclock
- our boat and supplies on a flat
car ahead of the engine two cars behind
with Ry. supplies & passengers. The
road runs nearly north from Seward &
climbs a heavy crooked grade to the
summit where it drops into Snow
Creek the southeastern tributary of
Kenai Lake thence down that to Kenai
<page break>
Lake, skirting the west side of Sheep
Mt. along the east side of one arm
of the lake and thence north & then
east up Trail Creek we went to
the 35 mi. point where the rails
are laid, - & to the end of the tracks.
Had dinner at tie camp back
in the evening to Lake Kenai where our
boat & supplies are put off &
we loaded the boat & went around
to the old railroad camp buildings
at the elbow called Roosevelt in
construction days but now wholly
abandoned & deserted. We had
some trouble to land since a strong
wind sprang up & the waves rolled
in from the lower end of the lake it
looks bad windy but clear.
Our party consists of Captain
<page break>
Stewart, treasurer of the A.C. Ry
Judge Hildreth, Col. Revell,
guide, Commodore Billy Smith,
guide, & I, - Revell & Smith are
both fine hunters, & know the country.
We are in for a good nights rest-
- wind blowing & it looks bad.
-13th-
Wind still high & lake impossible
- clear & beautiful weather. We
are all scattering out to see the country
around & to wait for the wind to abate.
Went up Ptarmigan Creek with Revell
& thence up to the Lake sunk deep
between Sheep Mt. & another Fine
day out on lake on a raft but no
sheep fine pair of horns at outlet
of lake old camp back in evening
tired but happy wind still blowing
<page break>
-14th-
Wind still & we left camp this morning
for the lower end of the Lake. Passed a
fine large island at noon and we named
it Stewart Island after Capt. Stewart.
Reached the lower end of the lake at
dark & thence down the river about
a mile to an old Russian barrabara
or hunting house on its north bank.
A beautiful, cloudless, lazy October
day the scenery on Kenai lake
is enjoyable high snow covered
mountains on each side long &
steep inclines & precipitous walls
the western end before dark was
beautifully amysthestine an ideal
Indian summer day We
found two Swedes on their way
<page break>
down the Kenai to Russian river
where they intended to hunt for bear
& prospect. Tired & all ate & dropped
to sleep-
-15-
Hunting today. We are now in
the heart of the Kenai peninsula
& it is said to be a Moose Arcadia
Capt Stewart & Billy Smith went
off down the right limit of the
river while Revell & I went up
Juneau creek to the north. The
valley of Juneau is certainly a
beautiful spot on a mild autumn
day it is two or three miles wide
and surrounded with rounded
mountains already capped with
snow a forest fire has killed
most of the former forest and in
the wide openings this made in
<page break>
the trees the red top grass waves
in the fall winds. Hundreds of
acres of this fine grass make fine
brown meadows clear dashing
streams cross the valley from the side
valleys to fall into Juneau creek-
- the warm sun shines over all it
is a beautiful spot fit for the home
of the noble moose- And it certainly
is his home great well packed
trails connect the distant parts of
the valley and moose sign & tracks
are every where. An hour after
noon we saw a moose hidden
behind a few thick trees we could
not discover its size or sex until
it was shot it was the finest
& fattest animal I ever saw
I felt but little no elation
<page break>
at shooting it but very
much as if I had invaded
some gentlemans back pasture
& had shot his favorite Jersey
cow Another yearling bull
accompanied the one we shot
& it made me feel still meaner
by its fearless search around
us sometimes only 50 yards
away for its mate. We cleaned
the animal quartered it - &
Revell put a fore quarter on his
back I took both guns &
we started home I was dead
tired when we reached camp-
Capt. Stewart & Billy came in
half an hour after they had seen
several moose at long distance
but had killed none-
<page break>
-16th-
Revell Billy & Judge Hildreth
went back to our moose of yesterday
- Hildreth hoping to kill his moose
& the boys to bring in the hind quarters.
The following is a rough map
of Kenai Lake - & shows our location
[sketch of lake and railway]
[captions:] Hunting
Camp Stewart Is.
Kenai Lake Alaska Central Ry Seward
<page break>
The old hunting lodge which we use
in part is an interesting structure.
It was built by a Russian from the
mouth of the river 90 miles away-
to the west he evidently wished to reach
the lake and also the sheep & moose
hunting around it & probably the
fish in the river and lake.
[sketch of building]
[captions:] 6 X 6 Sweat House
16 X 20 Indian & fish house
12 X 12 Barrabara
The sweat house was well constructed
of hewn logs tightly morticed good
smooth floor low walls, tight roof &
covered with dirt covering in one corner
is yet the pile of rocks which when
heated with coals furnished the heat
for steam they threw water on the hot
rocks & then enjoyed the sweat-
<page break>
The larger structure in the center
was a low roofed but well constructed
of logs with a smoke hole in the
center. Its size and shap enabled
the hunter to house his Indian retainers
- his fish & dogs while the principal
building was occupied by him & his
family It is a model of good hewing
& log fitting. The floor & ceiling are
hewn as also the walls two small
windows while the only entrance is
through the large fish room-
-17ty-
Rainy & we remained in camp.
-18th-
Rainy but went hunting saw
5 moose on mountainside 2
in valley but got none saw
the falls on Juneau Creek.
<page break>
-19th-
Clearing up we moved
camp packed on our backs
into the center of Juneau Creek
valley we will remain there
until we kill our bull moose
Built camp on east side of Juneau
Creek valley fly for cover & bed of
boughs good camp-
-24th-
We remained in our Juneau Creek
camp until today On our hunting
trips we explored this fine valley its
lakes & streams we hunted the high
wide gulches &c. I saw 15 moose
but got no shot at horns could
have killed several cows & yearlings
but did not shoot. Yesterday
we suddenly came across a great
<page break>
bull with only one horn
he had lost the other in a battle
- shot him cut his heart but
only relieved his sufferings, since
his battle had left him minus one
of his great antlers which had carried
away a portion of his skull-
Hildreth also killed a fine young bull.
Capt. Stewart & Billy Smith got a
shot at a bear but did not get him on
account of brush & distance-
It rained so much that we could
not hunt well & were always wet
to the waist. Carried our packs
back to the Russian barabara
this afternoon - & will go back home
My moose gave us some fine meat
- two fine hind quarters but
we have no good horns-
<page break>
-25-
We left the barabara at 4
oclock yesterday evening &
reached the east end of Kenai
lake at 1:30 in the morning
train at 4 in afternoon & reached
Seward tonight. Well sound
& strong but the trip yielded no
horns
Recd. telegram from Jim Fish, Valdez,
saying : Valdez Oct 14.
Hon James Wickersham, Seward Alaska
At mass meeting last night following
delegates to legislative convention
Seattle November 15th were unanimously
elected Wickersham, Lathrop, Blum,
Smith. (signed) James Fish.
Sorry that my office prevents my
accepting but it would not be
<page break>
proper & I will have them elect
some one else in my place
Also telegram from Abe Spring
dated Oct 15 from Fairbanks:
Nasty fight being made Bar Assoc
=iation. Condemnatory resolutions
introduced meeting prior my arrival.
Friends succeeded postponing action.
Miller resolution still pernicious
substituted last night. Indefinitely
postponed eleven ten. Closest
watching required preventing
snap judgment. Press letters
department being mailed. Copies
forwarded. Henderson compiling statement.
Abe Spring.
Miller & Claypool are evidently
squaring themselves with their
clients by fighting me.
<page break>
-26th-
Much complaint here against
Hildreth the Ry. people are espec
=ially bitter against him because
of his fight against Dr. Burns.
Took midnight lunch with Capt. & Mrs.
Stewart also met Mr. Francis, Treas. of the
A.C. Ry. & a Mr. Middleberger, a representative
of the Holland bondholders of the Co.
-27th-
The 25th Anniversary of
our marriage
- at Rochester, Ill. Oct. 27, 1880.!!
I love my clean-minded good wife with
a stronger love than I did when she came
as my bride. If our three boys were all
alive how happy I would be but our eldest
is left and he is so strong and manly that
I cannot complain - though Howards
death was the greatest loss of my life
it seems to have been almost the end of my
home life-
<page break>
The Chamber of Commerce gave me
a formal reception last night at the
Kenai Club rooms. Messrs. Francis
& Middleberger also attended as guests
- I made a short talk encouraging them
in respect to the region toward which their
railroad is building the Tanana valley
None of them have visited the interior altho
they are building a first class standard
railroad to it. The lawyers gave me
an endorsment, recommending my
reappointment, and asking, in case of the
division of the district, that I be assigned
to the coast division! Ritchie, the Editor
of the Seward Gateway -
the only local paper
also wrote a letter of endorsment. Am
very much pleased with my trip to Seward!
Billy Smith, my hunting guide gave me a
fine pair of moose antlers.
<page break>
-28th-
Had a fine chicken dinner with Mr &
Mrs. McNeily, yesterday. The Santa Ana
in yesterday & left this morning but I
will wait for the Santa Clara since she
goes to Valdez direct while the Santa Ana
stops at Ellamar to load on. Am
negotiating for a town lot in Seward.
-29-
Santa Clara came in about 2 oclock
today but leaves late or not till morning
since a heavy storm is raging outside.
Spent the day quietly at hotel but
had supper last night with Poland,
general manager of the A.C Ry. and with
Francis & Middleberger also break
=fast with them this morning Francis
is a clean cut young Canadian of
gentle manners, but bright and vigorous
<page break>
- a good business man and I presume
a wealthy one Middleberger is a
discreet, conservative, close mouthed
Hollander, who eats porridge, does
not smoke and drinks like a New
England deacon. He is sixty rather
gray, stoop shouldered, and slow
but knows the value of a cent and
has promoted railroads in South Africa
- so his Hollandish clients are pretty
safe. Poland is a human dynamo.
Did not buy a lot in Seward.
-30-
Santa Clara went out early this
morning as far as the mouth of the
harbor but such a storm was raging
that it immediately returned to the
Seward Wharf lay in Seward
all day doing nothing -
<page break>
-31st-
Left Seward early this morning &
reached Valdez about six oclock -
Lawyers Brown & Ostrander called
on me at St. Elias Hotel & said that
the Chitita Bankruptcy case was the
only matter that could be taken up
& that they & the people generally
desired me to hold the regular term
in January
[November 1905]
-November 1st-
Mail good letters from Debbie &
Darrell she is in New York visiting
him & they seem to be having a good
time poor child. I am glad she is
enjoying him and he her visit.
Heard the Chitita bankruptcy case
but refused to do anything until
<page break>
January Signed some formal
orders & called a Special Team
at Valdez for January 22, 1906.
Absolutely nothing to do so I
will go out on the Santa Clara
tomorrow. Gave a Moose dinner
to Gov & Mrs Leedy Joe Bourke,
Jas Fish & wife, Brown & wife, Lyons
& wife, Rochford & his affianc {Mrs. }his fiance
at Wikidels restaurant. Also then
attended a social function given
by Mrs Ostrander & Mrs Hozlett
euchre at Moose Hall.
Gave Rob. Coles a letter to Poland, of the
A.C. Ry. Co. Seward asking him to give
Rob work Everything ready to go on
boat in the morning. Lathrop, dept.
Marshal also goes as delegate to the
Alaska convention.
<page break>
-Nov. 2nd-
Santa Clara for Seattle-
Foggy in Valdez harbor but clear
& bright in Prince Williams Sd-
This is a beautiful body of water
like Puget Sd and fully protects
the entrance to Valdez The entrance
to Resurrection Bay Seward opens
out on the Pacific & storms make
it almost impossible to get in & out
- Beautiful day Ellamar in sight.
-Nov 3rd-
Fine day fair wind sail up
& going 12 knots an hour! for
home. Am not sea sick but have
just staid in bed to rest it is
a rest after a strenous term at
Fairbanks & a mighty moose hunt.
<page break>
Nov. 7.
At Sea, off Barclay Sound-
Had a rough trip until yesterday
- I was distressed and uncomfortable
as usual and remained in bed -
Foggy weather yesterday & today
till noon we had no sight of
land since leaving Hinchinbrooke
Is. till noon, when we were just
off Barclay Sd 60 miles north
of De Fuca Straits. It is a beautiful
day now clear calm, sunny &
warm the high mountains of Vancou
ver Is. lie to our left we will get in
Seattle about noon tomorrow.
Lathrop, Dep. U.S. Mar. from Valdez.
Iles, the bum railroad promoter.
Judge Morford, lawyer from Seward,
Hilscher, the butcher, Rich, the
<page break>
railroad contractor & others are aboard.
Hickey, a mining expert, also
Have recovered my legs, and appetite
but my bowels are yet torpid.
A glorious afternoon
7 p.m. Have just passed the light
house at Cape Flattery ; It seems
good to be approaching home &
civilization once more.
Nov. 8.
Arrived in Seattle at 9.a.m.
Rainier Grand hotel Johansen is
here Remained over for tonight
at request of A.B.s the
Arctic Brotherhood Grand Lodge
in session banquet Perkins
Arc. Chief presided was guest
of honor & well received at banquet
- made short address -
<page break>
-9th-
Tacoma letters from Debbie
- telegraphed her my arrival.
Also letter from Stephen Birch
- telegraphed him also by request
that would be here for some time.
Ex. Marshal Richards, & his
gang Forrest, M. J. Cochran,
Sam Milligan, Al. Cody,
& , are busily engaged,
aided by D. A. McKenzie, in knocking
me at Seattle. Sullivans, both
Mike & P. C. are there and also
in close consultation. The
Alaska convention, to meet on the
15th is attracting attention & the
newspapers have announced me
as a candidate for delegate but
I have promptly denied it & they
<page break>
will so announce.
-10th-
Visiting Seattle nothing
particular except denying that
I am candidate for delegate.
-11th-
Application from Col. L. S. Howlett
of North Yakima, Wash. for appoint
=ment as Com. at Seward, Alaska,
received letters from Senator George
Turner, & Congressman W. L. Jona
of N. Yakima, strongly endorsing him
Recd. check for 6 mo. salary
= $2500. Deposited $5500.00
in Nat. Bk. of Commerce.
-12-
Went to Buckley to visit
mother met Jennie & her
husband in Tacoma last night.
<page break>
Jennie is grown to be a handsome
woman - is a good wife & mother
Everybody well at Buckley-
-13th-
Returned to Tacoma. Recd.
packages of books history &
ethnology from London-
Answered mail George Jeffry
here Had visit from John
Malone today showed me
letter from A. R. Lillienthal, of
San Francisco, proffering assistance
to secure my confirmation. John
also told him {me} that P. C. Sullivan
would not fight & that President
had requested McKenzie, of
North Dakota the backbone
of the fight against me to
let up on it!! This dont
<page break>
sound just right but it may
be true. Judge Dudley DuBose
- McKenzies friend also told
me that he thought McKenzie
was easily induced to let up-
-14th-
Over to Seattle hard fight on over
delegate Nye, Manley & Donnelly
- three Fairbanks delegates under
the influence of the decision in
Durand v Manley are doing what
they can to beat Johansen who
is the Fairbanks delegate under the
impression that he will be friendly to
me. Carr &
Nye are evidently
small liars & traitors-! I am
keenly disappointed in them
Met many delegates Gov. Swineford
& others - & came home at 9 p.m.
<page break>
-15-
Telegram from Debbie last night
saying she had started home &
that Darrell was off to Cuba to
day. Dinner tonight to a
few friends. Alaska convention
organized today Archer from
Nome elected temporary chairman
against Nye of Fairbanks!!
28 to 24!! Edgar telegraphed
me to come over tonight but I will
not do it I intend to keep
out of the mess for it looks
now like a first ward caucus.
Dinner a success present
Senator Foster, Grosscup, Geo. Reid
Pratt, Sec. Cham. of Com. Billy Stern
-berg & Joe Whitehouse.
<page break>
-16th-
Johansen telephoned to me from
Seattle this morning that I must
come to Seattle & help him as his
enemies were fighting him close &
hard on my account I went, but
refused to appear openly I teleg
raphed ahead & had John P. Hartman
meet me and informed him of the
actions of Nye he went to work
on Nyes employers the Tanana
Mines Ry interests Fredk Bausman
their attorney &c. and when I left
there tonight at 11 oclock they
were industriously working to drive
him into line. John Ballaine
of Seward was assisting & Johansen
thinks, tonight, that he will
succeed. L. L. Bales, came
<page break>
to see me & dug up a vote from
Iliamna. They are openly threatening
me the Marshal Richards gang
but if Johansen wins out they are
powerless. Archer was made
temporary chairman over Nye,
& this is concededly a Johansen victory.
Major Richardson called I am
surprised to find the Rosene people
assisting Ryan think of Jarvis
interests being used to down me!
The matter is badly mixed up but
I am hopeful!
17th
Just received a telephone message
from Johansen saying that Nye
had agreed to support him upon
receiving his pledge that he
(Johansen) was not pledged to
me his support was withheld
<page break>
distinctly because he was opposed
to me & he believed Johansen was
friendly to me This is Gratitude
of the Claypool McKenzie-Carr
kind!! The Post-Intelligencer
announces this morning that the
Ryan forces admit defeat and
will now fight for three delegates
- one from each judicial division.
I told Johansen to do as he pleased
about Nye think he is scared &
wishes to make his election sure
but I did not want him to win with Nye
against him evidently Bansman
& Hartman made Nye come in but
he still acts the dog & insists on
Johansen surrendering something.
Woe unto the ungrateful cowards
if I ever get the opportunity to act!
<page break>
-19th-
Debbie at home. Went over
to Seattle yesterday afternoon &
met Debbie at 9.p.m. over G. N Ry.
She is not strong & seems much worn
out by her trip but is enthusiastic
& happy over her six weeks visit to
Darrell. The Alaska delegates
came over to Tacoma yesterday after
=noon & gave the town a visit they
were met and entertained by the Chamber
of Commerce - & This evening (Sunday)
Iles of Valdez came to see me & tried
to force me by threats of a roast in the
Convention tomorrow, to throw the
Johansen forces to Ryan!! I kept my
temper & told him that I would
do nothing that I had not taken
<page break>
any part in the fight and would
not. He said that Charlie Herren
- late one of Marshal Richards deputies
at Nome and a deputy clerk while
I was there & appointed at my request
had sent him to make the proposition
to me I sent him (Iles) off short
but without display of anger
Alaska convention is drifting worse
& worse into ward politics Had
a talk with {state} Senator Dick Kinnear
at Seattle & he asked me to call on
Senator Piles thinks Piles will
support me if I will give him some
Alaska patronage & let up on the
fight against P. C. Sullivan for District
Atty. for Washington yet every
plug that Sullivan controls in the
Alaska convention is blackguarding me!
<page break>
-20-
Went to Seattle saw Piles & he
palavered but my opinion is that
he will do all he can to defeat me
he will do it kindly saying That it
is better, since there is so much of a fight
to take up a new man!! Also saw
Ryan & tried to get him to agree to
3 delegates & let Johansen be elected
for the sake of harmony They are
fighting me, now.
-21st-
Johansen defeated Nye & the
Ryan people succeeded in jobbing
him electing Capt. O. J. Humphrey.
Lathrop left the hall & this took
away 7 votes - & Humphrey had 42
& Johansen 41! I was roasted by
Nye publicly & accused of running
Johansens campaign, &c. Sharper
than the serpents tooth is the sting of
base ingratitude.
-22-
Paid up on my Puyallup Indian
land - $1236.96 also street asst. on
C. St. $773.35 Dont owe a dollar
in the world.
<page break>
-23rd-
John McGinn came over to see
me says that Ruan, Humphries
& Swineford will all support me
and that the McKenzie N. Dakota
fight will be withdrawn McGinn
goes to California tonight & thence to
Washington gave him such
papers &c. as explain matters
-24th-
Went over to Seattle Jarvis is
badly disgusted took dinner
with him he is just a
trifle
I thought disgusted with me
because I do not resign & go
to work for myself said he
would report conditions in Wash
=ington - when he goes in the morning
and thinks I ought to come on
to Washington & explain the
situation of the judges in Alaska
and then say to him that I have
enough - & resign.
Alaska State Library - Historical
Collections, PO Box 110571, Juneau AK 99811-0571
mailto:ASL.Historical@eed.state.ak.
http://library.alaska.gov/hist/fulltext/ASL-MS0107-Diary09-1905.htm