ASL-MS0107-Diary05-1903

Alaska State Library - Historical Collections

James A. Wickersham diary, February 12th. to December 31th., 1902.

[front cover]

Private Diary
            of
James Wickersham.
            1903
       Hands off.
Jany 1^st 1903 to May 15, 1903

<inside front cover>

James Wickersham

Private Diary.
Jany 1^st 1903 to
May 15^th 1903

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Valdez. Jany 1^st 1903 – Alaska
Weather mild – cloudy – gentle fall of snow –
beautiful winter morning. Attended dance at
K. P. Hall last night for two hours – refused
to make address – suggested singing “America”
which was done with a zest. Since reaching
here have been industriously engaged in the
preparation of the 1^st Alaska Reports – Am
now preparing the syllabi for my own and
Judge Browns decisions. Have worked out
a comprehensive plan of digesting all
prior and published decisions so that the
book will embrace the entire field of decided
law from Alaska since 1868. Need some
competent assistance, though, and have just
sent Richard H. Geoghegan, at EastSound, Wash
via. Seattle, the following telegram:

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“Come to Valdez on first boat. Good Salary.”
     Went over to “Prospector” office with
Mr. Harlan to call – Hildreth is a mild
mannered man with a gentle feminine face,
and well known to be a model Christian – but
Joe Burke, his partner – well, Joe. is different
He displays a large (private) tureen of lemonade
with a peculiarly brown look, a pleasant odor
and a taste – well I had tasted it before, but
looking at Hildreth, Harlan and I both took
a pint tin cup full, - you never can trust an
Irish printer – they are irreverent and have too great
a fondness for a Joke – and lemonade with a “stick”
in it. Gov. Leedy, Joe, Williams and Mr.
Harlan went to dinner with me – I did
nt think it of Hildreth.

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Jany. 2^nd Calm, quiet and snowing. Mail
for Eagle & Yukon went out today – Am
working “Reports”. Capt. Wilson and
Lieutenant Wheeler, from Ft. Liscum took
dinner with me last evening as did also
Mr. Martin, agent of Packing & Nav. Co. –
Heilig & Harlan – and we had a fine
dinner – Capt. Wilson has been in Nome &
knows everyone there & is my strong friend.
Lt. Wheeler is a young man from Buffalo N.Y.
            Jany 3^rd
Working on “Report” all day. Agreed with Dr.
Goddard to go out on north end of McKinley
Ave. & take a lot = took lot with Goddard
& McNeally, - front south toward bay.
Lawyers give me a reception tonight
at 8 oclock. Beautiful clear
day – calm & quiet.

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Jany 4^th. Lawyers gave me a reception
last night. A very pleasant affair.
[printed:]
“RECEPTION
      Tendered To
Judge James Wickersham,
          By The
Bar Association
             of
Valdez, Alaska.
SATURDAY, JANUARY THIRD,
      MDCCCCIII.

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MENU
                                    Blue Points.
SAUTERNE.               Consomme Xavier.
                        Amandes Salses          Olives
AMONTILLADO.     Lobster, a la Newberg
                                    Broiled Spring Chicken
BURGUNDY.                        Oyster Pates
                                    Roman Punch
VEUVE CLIQUOT     Welsh Rarebit
G. H. MUMM & CO.
EXTRA DRY.
            Fruit    Nuts    Cheese   Café Noir

TOASTS
John Goodell, Toastmaster
welcome              F. M. Brown, Pres. Bar Association
response                            Judge James Wickersham
the army and the law             Capt. Eugene Wilson
court officers               A. R. Heilig
railroads                          O. P. Hubbard
law and order                N. V. Harlan
resources of alaska   J. Y. Ostrander
townsite law                  J. F. Rice
admiralty                         W. H. Whittlesey
nome                                                Willoughby Clark
lawyer in politics                    J. F. Roy
mines                                                Henry King
reminesces                                    J. W. Leedy”

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Went out on McKinley Ave. today to see the lots
located by Goddard & McNeally of which I am
to have one. The town in wandering off in
that direction and our lots are in the woods
just beyond the end of the jumping off place –
3 or 4 blocks west of Reservation St. It
is like the breath of a spring morning to go
out in that direction and watch the men
shoveling snow – placing foundations and
putting up the first settlers shanties – it
is the first encroachment upon Nature!
People are coming in rapidly and taking
lots & building. I have today purchased
a tract of six (6) acres of Soldiers Additional
Hd. Scrip & hope to locate it on a water
supply for Valdez – if so will organize
a water supply & pipe water into town
Warm – snowing & quiet. Fine.

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Jany 5^th Worked all day on “Reports”.
Am invited out to dinner with Gov. Leedy & wife.
Leedy was a Populist governor of Kansas &
has two daughters and a son in his family here
besides his wife. = Rev. Mr. Hosford, the Congregation
=alist minister, O. P. Hubbard, lawyer, whom I
knew at Nome and I constituted the dinner party
at Gov. Leedys, - and the family. Mr. Hosford surprised
me by having lived long in Utah and defending
the Mormons! He praised their method of controling
their members – making them work – and grow rich.
The Gov. told us about his political troubles &
in Kansas & especially his speaking contest
with Susan B. Anthony, - he was so interested
that he forgot to ask Rev. Hosford to ask grace
until he had helped the plates – & Mrs. Leedy
had scowled at him. He is thoroughly
good natured and happy. We spent an
enjoyable evening.

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Jany 6^th. Worked in office on “Report.”
Snowing – deeper and deeper – We are
expecting the mail boat every hour – but
it doesnt come. S. A. Hemple, the
banker and merchant, locally known as
“Oklahoma Bill” called to see me this evening.
The courthouse & our offices are in his building
& he is “well fixed” for Alaska. He is paralyzed
on the left side and is rather spare, drawn
& unprepossessing – until you look at his
eyes which are clear, bright and intelligent.
He is from Missouri, went to Oklahoma &
there, he told me, though an invalid and hardly
able to walk, he resolved to go to Alaska and
make money enough in mines to start a bank
and store, and so badly crippled that he could
never go to the mines himself by a careful system
of “grubstaking” other men he has succeeded
& is a worthy man – a “rara avis” by the way,
as a banker. He is a good citizen.

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Jany 7. Snowing deeper & deeper – it
snowed more than 2 feet on a level
last night & seems only beginning.
“Santa Ana” in tonight – mail from Debbie
- she is better and writes hopefully – Is now happily
settled at Tucson – for which I am delighted.
Also received lot of departmental mail
including “leave of absence to Febry. 1^st!
Senator Foster seems not to have attended
to my request – but telegraphed me back
to Alaska when I might as well have
done my work on “Report” in Tacoma!
Also obtained departmental leave to
prepare Alaska report, and authority to
purchase 75 volumes in Alaska
(25 in each division of the court) at $8.00
per volume. Also letter from Hon Fredk
W. Seward, about Alaska.

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Jany 8^th Storm abated – warm & fine –
Snow four feet or more on a level – Wrote
letters in answer to mail – Recd. good letter
from Hoggett – He is doing good work in
Washington for me as well as Alaska.
Sent account for traveling & subsistence
expenses for last quarter - $52.
Jany 9^th Worked all day on “Report” Have
this evening finished syllabi on all but my
own – which are easier because I better under
stand the facts. Have written West. Pub. Co
that Atty. Genl. approves the scheme and
authorizes purchasing 75 volumes at $8.00 per.
Am earnestly looking around to get some
lots before the “boom” strikes the town – I
feel quite sure that Valdez is going to be a per
manent town & probably quite a city in
the future as the open door to the interior of Alaska

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Jany 10^th Raining and snowing. The miners
in town from the Copper river valley have this
week held a mass meeting, appointed committees
and adopted stringent rules and regulations
limiting the locations of mines. The committee
presented me with petition for the organization
of a mining district in the valley, with recorders
office at some central point. Have agreed to
consider it & will do it if it will be
self supporting. The “Shelikoff” a
small steamer that travels from here out to
Ooonalaska is long overdue and fears are
entertained of her loss. The “Santa Ana” is
considering the advisability of going out to
search for her – Intend to suggest to the
Cham. of Com. & Newspapers that a revenue
cutter be stationed here for the use of officials
& such public matters as that.

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Jany 11^th 1903.   One year ago Howard
died. I saw him last at Eagle city – he
stood on the upper deck of the “Whitehorse”
and waved his hand at me, as I stood with
his dog “Yukon” on the bank. This was
in the last days of July, - he was then the
very picture of health, strength and courage.
He was my pride, my love, and the hope
of my future, and I am just now beg
=ining to realize that he is dead. His
death almost killed his mother and quite
destroyed one half of my life – hopes and hap
=piness. My ambition went with his dear
sweet baby face. I did not know how
much I depended on him nor how
much he meant to my life. Howard
Howard!

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12^th Jany. Worked all day on “Report.”
Raining – snowslides coming thundering
down the mountain sides – the “Canyon” on
Lowe river is open – no ice – and travel to
the interior is cut off – warm & wet.
Snow disappearing rapidly – wish it
would turn cold. I bought 82 feet
frontage on McKinley street today, $400.00.
Will put a small house on it & probably
sell if I get a sufficient rise this summer.
13^th Jany. Finished buying 82 ft on
McKinly Ave. I assigned my October
and November vouchers for salary to Heilig
who paid me the amount $828.80. I paid
for that piece of ground, also for 6 acres of
Soldiers Add. Hd. Scrip = $105. making
my total investment $505.00 Worked all
day on “Report. Snowing & Raining.

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Jany 14. Got deed from Wm Grogg & paid him
$100; and from C. J. Bartlett and May F. Bartlett,
and paid them $300, for 82 ft on McKinley Ave.
Will build a dwelling house at once. James
Fish, Sr. acted as real estate salesman
Jany 15^th. I am almost finished preparing
the syllabi for the first Alaska Report.
Will begin on the index-digest tomorrow.
Made preparations today to build a small
house on my McKinley Ave. lots. McNeally
from Tacoma will do the work for me, & will push
it as fast as possible so as to get renters in.
We are now looking for a boat.
Jany 16. The Nome City reached port last
night. Mail and passengers came ashore
this morning. Richard H. Geoghegan, court
stenographer for the interior district came
- 70 passengers came up on her.

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Two good letters from Debbie – she seems
to be getting better and is {as} comfortably settled
as she can be away among strangers. Also
a nice letter from Darrell – he is doing so well
- we are both proud of him. I also received
letters from Volney T. Hoggatt and Geo. M. Esterly
from Washington, D.C. in relation to the Richards-
Grigsby fight. Whitehead, et. al. have begun an
open war in the newspapers in Washington on both
Richards and Grigsby, and these in turn have
started in to roast me. I shall keep out of
it, though I may suffer either way. I am
sure, however, that it is more dignified in a judge
to keep still and I intend to do so as long as
the Department will permit me to do so. My
friends, however – well if they ~~seek~~ {want} to hit the
enemy a whack – all right – I don’t care.
I got a letter from Judge Lyons, from Juneau

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announcing the death of Gen. Freidrich, the
U.S. Dist. Atty. – a petition was immediately pre
=pared at my suggestion asking the President
to appoint Asst. Dist. Lyons to the place &
Heilig carried it around and every attorney
in town signed it – he will send it to Lyons.
Am done work on syllabi of decisions and
will start Mr. Geoghegan to copying same
tomorrow & will go to work on index-digest.
Jany 6 7^th. The Santa Ana came in this morning
from her trip toward Unalaska after the
Shelikoff – It is reported that the Shelikoff
is safe. Wind blowing hard today off
the glacier and out of Lowe river canyon
Wrote to Debbie & sent her dozen & a half
of pictures of Valdez & surrounding country,
fine – pictures, too. Many of the Copper
river trail.

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Jany 18. Worked all day in office on “Report”.
Am now on Index-Digest and trying to
keep two typewriters going – Santa Ana
went out early this morning. Blizzard
blowing.      Isaac, a Yakutat Indian
visited me today for an hour. Says the Yakutats
are the most northern of the Thlinkets. That
the Kayaks and Eyaks, belong to and speak
the “Eyäk-Kōne” language, - that it is
different from the Thlinket or the Aleut, which
comes next on Prince William sound.
Says that Copper river (Athapascan) people
have always come down to the coast there
- at Kayak. Gave me these words in
Yakutat: Fire – Kōn: Water – Hēēn:
Snow – Glāte : Sun – Geek – Kōn : Moon –
Dis : Wood – Gun : Stone – Teh :
Tree – Ōss : Ice – Tēēkh : Man – Käh.

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Woman – shaw-mut; {Child} – Tuck-Kwn-nā'-yi
boat -   chē-ash; boat (larger) sēät.
He tells me that the place names at
Yakutat are Aleut, and that his
people coming from toward Sitka long
ago killed the Aleuts at Yakutat and
took possession – I gather that it
took place under Russian control.
Jany 19. Worked all day on “Report”, & on
Index-Digest. Am working on a
card index – after the idea of our census
index of 1880, at Springfield, Illinois.
Jany 20. Beautiful day – and the
sun, at last, shining into the town, from
over the mountains which have hidden
it for a month or more. Worked all day
on “Report”

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Jany 21. Began work on house on
McKinley St. today 12 X 24 & kitchen.
5 rooms. Worked all day on “Report.”
Fire Dept. of Valdez organizing tonight
in courtroom, - the usual loud talk.
Wrote to Debbie, & sent Hubbard
application for commutation of sentence
(sentenced at Circle City for 15 years for murder
of Thos. McNamee) back to Doolittle.
Refuse to recommend a commutation –
Upon request sent photo, & biography to
The Chicago Daily News.
Jay 22^nd Paid for lumber for house
on McKinley St. - $205.75 Capt. Wilson
of Ft. Liscum to dinner. Working on
Report – Beautiful quiet clear day.
Made application to join the “Valdez
Moose” – initiation for $10.00 Heilig
took it in & Harlan joins with me.

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Jany 23. Blizzard blowing: Subscribed
$10.00 to fire department. Working hard
on my “Report.”
Jany 24^th The worst blizzard of wind and
driving snow that I ever saw in progress.
Truly there is no excellence without great
labor, for I have been obliged to turn every
page of 115 volumes of the Fed. Reporter,
examine every case from Oregon, Washington
and California in 30 vols. of Fed. Cases,
and turn every page of the Supt. Ct. reports
U.S. from 1867 to date, for matter for the
first vol. of the Territory of Alaska Reports.
No 1. I am preparing the index to cover
every case decided in the district of Alaska
~~or concerning it~~ or rising therein & decided
by any other court, both original and
appellate. I intend that it shall be the
foundation of the law reports of Alaska
& all the states created therefrom.

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Jany 26. Sunday. Worked all day
in office, except time for a splendid
walk over the snow nearly up to the Valdez
glacier. On return dropped in & visited
Gov. Leedys family a few minutes. Am
working early and late on report – now on
the index-digest. Hope to finish it before
Febry 20^th. Am somewhat inclined to
fear that I have made too great an
investment in property here – for I can
begin to see a townsite fight, between this
place, and New Valdez, to the detriment
of both.   Am going to “hedge.” Went out
toward New or West Valdez this afternoon
for an hours run – fine hard trail & good
air. Another boat in two days-
            Jany 27^th
Went out this afternoon to Bonanza Roadhouse
5 miles up Lowe river, with Charlie Gleason
for a walk, and went the round trip in

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little more than 2 hours – turkish bath, alcohol
rub, and I feel much better. Gleason is an
athlete, one of Louis Lanes friends, and was with
Louis at Point Hope, Kotzebue sound, and other
places in the Arctic. Bonanza roadhouse is a
tent, run by “Rita Wol~~den”~~{-fenden-} [Wolfenden]
and from appearances
she sells liquor and other things to the thirsty Adams.
Day after tomorrow we go to the Glacier on snow
shoes. I feel better today about my town lot
investment. Am doing nicely with “Report.”
“Rules of Court” printed by “Prospector”
            -Jany 29^th-
The “Excelsior” came in last night, and I
am in receipt of two letters from Debbie and much
business and personal mail. Letters from Dr. Cahill
Whitehead, and Walter E. Clark, are particularly
interesting and gratifying. They have been looking
after my interests in Washington, and fighting my
battles valiantly, along with Hoggatt & Esterly.
Clark procured a very strong endorsement of

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my labors in Alaska from the Attorney General,
while Whitehead induced the President to send for
Taylor & Mountjoys report on Richards. They are
confident that both Richards and Grigsby will
be removed. Judge Lyons is back from Juneau
and neighboring towns, and reports my fair
prospects for my candidacy for Congress. I also
rcd. copy of Juneau “Record-Miner” and “Douglas
Is. News” speaking very nicely of me in that connection.
Gov. Brady is reported as friendly, - but Gov. Swine
=ford will probably be as ugly as he knows how.
     Was out to Valdez glacier this afternoon
with my Bostonese Irish friend Charly Gleason,
- Louis Lanes friend. Enjoyed the grand view of
this dry land glacier – its terminal and lateral
moraines, - crevasses, &c. and the 4 miles work
on snow shoes very much. Our courthouse
and office furniture came in on Excelsior last
night – Mr. Perrey – to[?], and today it is in and
I feel very well pleased with it. Paid Heilig

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in full amounts advanced on my salary
for Oct. and Nov.    Mr. Harlan and
I were initiated into the “Order of Moose.”
of Valdez tonight.

            Jany 30^th
Have invited Gov. Leedy & Mr. Harlan to
dinner with me this evening to assist in
entertaining Mr. T. D. Arthur, of New York,
Mr. Wm. H. Gorham, of Seattle and Mr. John
Carson, of Salem, Oregon, three outside attorneys
here to try the famous “Bonanza” copper mine
case. # Gov. Leedy, Judge Lyons, Mr Harlan
and I enjoyed a good long diner & cigars
with Messrs. Arthur, Gorham & Carson, and
I am sure that all enjoyed the occasion
- at the St. Elias restaurant.
            -Jan. 31-
I am much pleased with the letters from
Hoggatt, Whitehead, Esterly, but

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particularly so with the one from Walter
E. Clark, correspondent at Washington
D.C. of the N.Y. Sun, Seattle P.I and other
great papers. The clippings from the
papers indicate that instead of being
able to run the President and save
Richards, Grigsby will be removed
with him. He apparently went to Wash
=ington without leave from the Atty. Genl.
depending upon his “pull,” but Clark
writes me that both the President and
Attorney Genl. denounced his lapse
from duty for a year, and the Atty. Genl
has said he could also be removed.
Col. Bob. Bruce of Texas is said to be
slated for Marshal in Richards place.
Clark writes me that in a conversation
with him the Atty. Genl. said, when informed
that efforts were being made to prejudice
some of his subordinates against me,

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“If they are doing this, it is very improper,
and I have’nt heard of it before. I have a
very good opinion of Wickersham, and
I have gone out of my way on two or ~~more~~three
occasions to express my appreciation
of his good work in Alaska.” He
also says that he and Whitehead have
both made warm and friendly representations
to the President about me, and that the
President told him he would send for Grigsby
and demand an explanation of his presence
in Washington. As a figure of speech
typifying their condition Clark says they
are in “hot water”– and that “the water is
likely to get hotter before it gets cooler.”

Working on “Report” day and night.

Paid on labor on house $152.35.

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            Febry 1^st
Sunday – but I worked all day in the office
- wrote Debbie a nice long letter in the evening.
Snowing – gently – but in carloads.
            February 2^nd 1903.
Court met this morning – the first regular
jury term ever held in Valdez – A R. Heilig
Clerk, N. V. Harlan, Dist. Atty, Geo. G. Perry, Marshal,
O. P. Hubbard, Asst. Dist. Atty, Chas. Drebelbis, Dep. Mar.
Geo. A. Jeffry, stenographer, Richard H. Geoghegan,
stenographer – Ed. Harlan, clerk. “Dad” Nokes, Janitor.
Charles Gleason, Crier.   Baldwin, bailiff.
A. L. Levy, foreman of grand Jury – Organized and
instructed grand jury, admitted Carson, &
Arthur to the bar, hears some motions
& adjourned for the day. Worked on
“report.” In the evening O. P. Hubbard
accompanied by Sexton, the surveyor &
Gov. Leedy came in to see me about a new
scheme for a townsite and railroad term=

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=inal on Fidalgo Bay. They represent to me
that starting from that point, instead of Valdez
the railroad will strike a common point on the
Copper river, with a saving of from 12 to
20 miles, as well as the dangers and expense
of Keystone canyon, - that there is plenty
of timber at Fidalgo &c. &c. and want me
to join them in a scheme to organize a new
R.R. project from that point, take up lands
start a townsite, &c. so that we can force the
present R.R. people from Valdez to come
to Fidalgo and let us in on the project as
stockholders. It looks good, but Hubbard
and I both are in a doubtful position, he
by reason of his employment by the Valdez
R.R. as their attorney, while I only as a
friend. Hoggatt, Esterly and others
of this road have been fighting many
battles in Washington – while I am now

<page break>

offered an opportunity to “hold them up” as

            Febry. 5^th
Court today – as usual. Nearing the end
of copying decisions – Jeffry & Geoghegan – and
I am hard at digest. Paid my months board
at St. Elias $51.40 – room and laundry only.
8 pm. Steamer Jeanie reported entering the
bay – she will have mail. Indictment
today against Isaac Banta for murder
in the ~~first~~ {second} degree. Spent the evening at
Mr. & Mrs. Kelceys – Gov. Leedy & family.
James Fish & Mayor Steele & wife present.
            -Feby. 6^th 1903-
“Jeanie” brought in mail, letter from Debbie
- says she is getting stronger – good. E.A.
Henderson, dept. clerk, came – 40 passengers
Finished cards for index-digest today &
boys finished copy my manuscript. Will
begin on index tomorrow – the arrangement.
Court today – but little to do. Banta
arraigned – pleads tomorrow-

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soon as they arrive here from Washington.
My notion is that I ought not to do it.
Febry. 3^rd “Excelsior” in from the
westward, also “Shelikoff,” and the
“Bertha” in from south, but nothing new
nor no mail on her. Got off letters to
Debbie, Whitehead and Clark. Was
invited to spend evening at Judge Ostranders
with Mr. Harlan & Capt. Johansen of the
Bertha. Played “cinch” & had a pleasant
evening. Went then to “Moose Ball” for
an hour. Worked on “Report” – when not
in court.
            -Febry 4^th-    In court all
day and worked on “Report.” Took my
first dancing lesson tonight. Visited
at Coles, - Mrs Brown, Mrs. Strouse & Mrs.
Hopkins. Coffee, cake, ice cream & candy
- enough to kill an ordinary stomach.

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            7^th
Indictment against Hamano, a Jap
for murder in 1^st degree. Attended a
small social function at Coles.
            -8^th-
Sunday. With Charley Gleason went out
at 12. m. to the moraines in the valley back
of Valdez. Beautiful clear day, snow 6 ft
deep on level – and we had the finest day
of snow shoe ing I have had. Climbed the
highest point of the morainic deposits
- the view of the vast Valdez amphitheatre
was superb – the mountains tower almost
a mile in perpendicular height all around
- everything perfectly white except the ~~deep~~
dark waters of the bay and the deep blue
of the sky, beginning just on the summits,
- our position on a height enabled us
to overlook every thing within the outer limits.

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            -9^th-
Trial jury – empanelled. Working on
index to Report. Tried a small
case this afternoon without a jury.
            -11^th-
Began on the case of U.S. v. Hamano, a
Jap charged with murder at Ugashik, Bristol
Bay, in June, 1902. Trial jury – Went to
a Masonic ball this evening – speeches,
supper, dancing.
            -12^th-
The Portland in 2 days ago. V. F. Haggatt,
& others came in on her. Also got letters
from Debbie & many others. Trial of
U.S. v. Hamano, all day, charged
the jury late in evening, verdict at
7 p.m. “Manslaughter”- correct.
Writing letters to go out on boat tomorrow.

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            -13^th-
Steamer “Santa Ana” came in last
night with 116 passengers – many steam
=ers coming and too many passengers – only
a few leave town to engage in actual prospecting
work, the rest are either too cowardly or too
lazy to leave the streets to search the mountains
for minerals, or they come for the purpose of
living off those who do work. Wrote a long
letter to Debbie last night and sent her some
pictures including one of myself and office.
            14^th
Grand Jury has reported and was discharged
yesterday – a very satisfactory jury and a
good report. Trial jury discharged this
day, and term with jury productive of good.
Trial of Crawford v. Burr et. al. involving
trail on late Valdez military[?] reservation
- before court without jury. Sentenced Hamano
Jap. for manslaughter – 10 years in pent.

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            -15^th-
Preparing opinion in Crawford v
Burr, et.al. in favor of defendants.
Gave a dinner to Mrs. Leedy & Mrs.
Kelsey, and the Misses Leedy & Hoggatt.
Snowing, softly and steadily – it is
now said that 40 ft. of snow has
already fallen - & the snowy month is
yet to come!
            -16^th-
Decided Crawford v Burr in favor of the
defendants. Set time to take
evidence in Chittyna Min. Co. v. Mc
Clellan, et.al. Working on index
now – everything else in “Report”
finished. Str. “Valencia” in at noon
with passengers & Blei party of miners.
Dinner last night to Mrs. Leedy & daughters
Mrs. Kelsey & Hoggatt was a great success.

<page break>

            -17^th-
“Nome City” came in last night loaded
with passengers – Leased my house - $30.00
per month. Finished yesterday & fully paid
for – cost me $600.00 – Have carved
out “Kayak Precinct” from St Elias to
east bank of Copper river – including the
area draining in the sea, - established
office at “Galiano,” on Catella {Katalla} bay –
It is a pleasure to introduce both
these names into the fixed geography
of Alaska. Appoint Wm. H. Whit
=tlesey, U.S. Comr. there and will give
W. A. Berry a job of copying records for him
            -20^th-
Went out snow shoeing yesterday afternoon
to summit of moraine, back of Valdez – S.
Gave a dinner last night to Mr & Mrs. George
M. Esterly, Robert Blei & wife, Mr & Mrs.
Meenach, Mr. McNear and Hoggatt
            $60.00

<page break>

I have felt under so many obligations
toward them for their support at Washington
this winter that I desired to show my appreciation
- They were pleased with the dinner and made
me a full fledged candidate for delegate to
Congress from Alaska – I would rather
be the first delegate from Alaska than judge.
            -21-
Was entertained at dinner last night
at the Valdez cafe, by Mr & Mrs. Robert Blei,
also present, Mr. & Mrs Esterly, Hoggett
and Mrs. Strouse & Mr. McNear. We then
went to Moose Hall dance. Court
was finished up today – have had three
weeks of good earnest work and am
very much delighted at the results. Great
good has been accomplished.
Finished 1^st Alaska Territory:
            Report today.

<page break>

            -22-
Leave Valdez at 2 p.m. with a feeling
that nothing is left undone. = Left Valdez
at 2- and went over on “Nome City” to Ft.
Liscum – she laid there – in Swanport
for several hours taking the “Newport” in
tow – Called on Dr. Bartlett and Capt.
Wilson – Capt. W. and Mrs. Strouse
& Dr & Mrs. Bartlett came over to the
boat and had dinner with me.
41 ft. of snow has fallen at Liscum
so far this winter - it will probably
reach 60 ft by summer.
            -23-
“Nome City” laid in Swanport all night
& we went out through the “Narrows” this
morning. Stormy & snowed a foot
or more last night – head winds

<page break>

across Prince Williams sound, and
as we rounded the west end of Hinchinbrooke
Is. the storm drove our skipper into Port
Etches, where we anchored about 4 oclock.
Captain Moore invited me to his cabin to
play whist – two vaudeville artists of
from Dawson – Valdez &c. were introduced
and we four played whist till 12 m.
Captain sat lunch also – 3 women
aboard – one sings “coon songs” another
pretends to “sentimentals,” while the 3^rd
strums heavy music out of the piano.
            -24^th-
Still in Port Etches – while the storm
outside grows worse. Remained in Port
Etches all day – rolling – rolling at anchor.
Natives came off tonight with cla[?].
Storm still raging tonight

<page break>

            -25-
We left Port Etches early this morning
and at dark we are opposite Mt. St. Elias.
- the westernmost point of the greater Kayak
Island. A good sea – but we are going
- oh so slow – on account of Newport tow.
Remained in bed all day – so as not be get
sea sick.
            -26^th-
A fine day – we are 20 miles off shore
opposite Mt. St Elias – Was up at sun
up to see it - a cloudless sky and the
St Elias range can be seen far on each
side of the great buttress which forms
the international corner stake.
George is taking Kodak shots at it
every hour or so – for we seem to
remain stationary in front of it

<page break>

We will get into Yakutat this afternoon

At sundown we are leaving Yakutat bay
- it is the rarest Arctic bay on our continent.
Mighty St. Elias. fronts the ocean on its north
shore – 18,000 feet above its waves, back
yet in sight is Logan, while flanking St.
Elias and forming a frame for the great
bay stand Vancouver, Hubbard, Cook,
Pinta, Tebenkof, and other butresses in the
high St. Elias range. Yakutat is the
Port Mulgrave of the early English explorers.
Capitalists are now locating a railroad
from its south shore across a great flat
country covered with a dense forest to the
Alsek river, famed for its fishery
The Malaspina glacier covers a similar
flat on its north shore – 70 miles
long by 30 wide – 2100 sq. mi of
glacier – underlaid with coal oil!

<page break>

            -27-
A storm struck us this morning about
daybreak and grew worse – until at noon
we were standing first on our heads and
then on our heels – I did not get up
nor eat all day – just laid in my room
and groaned – Damn ships and
storms and seas! Darrell can resign
and come home as soon as he pleases.
I would not go to sea as a cadet if I
knew I would be and admiral.
            -28^th-
We reached Sitka just at noon
today – just a week from the time
we left Valdez. Called on Capt. Jarvis
Col. of Customs, first, who informed me
that nothing had been done in Washington
yet about removing Grigsby or Richards at
Nome – and he also told me that he had

<page break>

been directed to come on to Washington
and would leave in a week. He did not say
so but I judge that his visit has much
to do with Nome matters, and that upon
his recommendation changes will be made.

I also called on Gov. Brady, who was very
courteous and kind. He took me out to the
Sheldon Jackson Museum &c. and voluntarily
said to me, plainly and positively that if the
Alaska delegate bill passed he would
support me for the place. We talked over
the Senate substitute – an election by the
Gov. Sec. and 3 Judges, and he offered to
support me – though he kindly protested
that I as of such value as judge that
he regretted to lose me on the bench.
The “Bonita” came in this afternoon and
will go out to Juneau early in the morning.
I am now to go and call on Genl. Distin,
Secretary of the Territory -

<page break>

Called on Surveyor. General Distin and spent
the evening with him and met Mrs. Distin. He
voluntarily broached the delegate question and
plainly and strongly promised to support me &
if the Senate substitute passed agreed to vote
for me. Went with the Distins and spent the
evening with Mr & Mrs. James Cansten, Dep
Col. of Customs – His birthday – present
Capt. & Mrs. Pendleton, Dr. & Mrs. Adams,
Genl & Mrs Distin, the Canstens, Capt. Jarvis
& I. Spent the evening playing whist – lunch.
            Mch. 1^st
A glorious, bright, sunny Sunday morning.
Had a room in the old log Baranoff house, kept
by Mrs. Archangelsky – a Russian creole.
Was awaken by the loud sweet tones of the old
Russian bells, - and the girl pounding on my
door – and saying that “It’s ten oclock”.
Suffered over night with a very severe sore
throat, but an application of cold towels

<page break>

relieves me.   Went out walking with Capt.
Jarvis, who came while I was eating breakfast,
and as we came back from Indian river we
stopped in and heard Bishop Rowe preach,
at the beautiful little stone Episcopal church.
Jarvis will go to Washington within a week and
will do all he can to secure the removal of both
Richards and Grigsby – He has been sent for on
Alaskan matters. Took lunch with him and
“Buster”, his darling boy. Mrs. J. is yet in
bed with their third child and second son
whom he calls “Billy”, - 10 days old.
Left on “Bonita” at 2 oclock for Juneau-
Bishop Rowe is on board also. Before I left
the wharf I delivered to Genl. Distin a letter
from Esterly to me, agreeing to dismiss the
proceedings and charges against Distin
filed by him & Hoggatt in Washington.
Distin agreed to drop the whole matter &
to keep the letter confidential.

<page break>

            March 2^nd
At the Indian village of Hoonah at break
fast – passed Icy Straits – Funters Bay at
11 oclock. Point Retreat at lunch – and
reached Juneau at 4 p.m. After dinner
Dautrick, Tom Lyons, Bishop Rowe, Mr. Cobb,
Clerk of the U.S. Court Hills, and other gentlemen called
at my room to visit me. “Dolphin” coming in
tonight from the south.
            -Mch 3^rd-
Sat on bench in Judge Browns court at his
request – with him – and heard him deliver
a very instructive opinion on assignments
of grounds for new trial. Visited in the
afternoon and put some finishing touches
on Report. Judge & Mrs. Brown gave me a
delightful dinner – Louis P. Shackleford and
wife, Mrs. Shoup and I were the company.
Also met Miss Susie – their diminutive
daughter.

<page break>

            Mch 4^th
Worked all forenoon on Report – In the
afternoon went with Judge Maloney – to
inspect the famous Treadwell mine. We
were conducted over the great plant, and shown
“Glory Hole” where the ore comes from, by
McDonald, the Superintendent. Afterward
Maloney and I went to visit Dr. Moore,
a brother of Judge Moore, of Nome, and
were entertained at the finest dinner I have
had in Alaska. Mrs. Moore is an Iowa
lady – and very nice – a most delightful
hostess and a splendid housekeeper.
Dr. Keller told story of starving miner who made soup
            out of dogs tail & gave the
                        dog the bone!
            -5^th-
Left Juneau last night on the “Cottage
City”, but found ourselves tied to the wharf
at Treadwell mines this morning
and did not get away until 8 oclock.

<page break>

Heavy head winds all the way to Skag
way, and a heavy storm and high seas
off Point Bridget. Reached Skagway
at 7 oclock p.m. and walked against
a bitter cold and strong wind – put up
at “Fifth Avenue Hotel”, room 36
During the evening I did what work
remained to be done on first Alaska
Report.
            -6^th-
Sent Mss. of 1^st Alaska Report
to West Pub. Co. St. Paul, by
express. Left Skagway at 9:30
Barnes, conductor – knows Edgar.
Bad storm on mountains – snow,
& wind – Reached Bennett at 4 p.m.
20 min. for dinner & Whitehorse at
8 p.m – put up at “Windsor Hotel, room 3

<page break>

            -7^th-
Left Whitehorse at 7. a.m. on 4 horse
stage – sled – 9 passengers and driver
Lunch at Tahkanil, and supper tonight
at “Nordenskiold” – 63 miles today.
Paid $50.00 for my own ride and $14.00 for
my baggage. 35° below zero when we
left Whitehorse this morning. 63 mi
            -8^th-
Left Nordenskiold Rim at 6 oclock
- dinner at Montague & reached
“Carmacks” at 6 oclock for supper
Clear – cold - & traveled 67 miles
= 130 miles out from Whitehorse
- mileposts along government road
- which was built this last fall.
“Carmacks” is a bum hole – no
sheets or pillow cases – and things
look dirty and crawly.

<page break>

            -9-
Staid all night last night at Carmacks.
- Reached Yukon crossing this forenoon
and “Minto” {~~MENTA~~} at dinner – this last is the
cleanest – largest and best looking place
on the trail – reached “Pellycrossing”
- “Whalens” tonight – a good “roadhouse”.
            -10^th
Left “Pelly crossing” this morning at 6.a.m.
and reached “Humes” at 10 – found my old
Tacoma friend W. T. Hume there with his wife
son and daughter. The latter is a nurse and
told me that she nursed Howard at the Fannie
Paddock hospital. Reached the next road
house for dinner – and the crossing of the
Stewart River at dusk. Finest house
on the line here. Kept by Mr & Mrs Brenner
- Mrs. Stevens from last house came in our
stage to this place on a visit. The stage
was so crowded that she sat on George’s

<page break>

knees all the way – and both seemed to
enjoy it! The wife and small son of the
Cook at Pelly crossing also came with
us from that point bound for Dawson.
I am quietly informed that Mrs Stevens is
preparing to leave her husband with one of
the stablemen at this post – I can readily
believe that she would do it. “Stewart crossing”
is 50 miles up Stewart river from the Yukon
- there is a post of the Northwest Mounted Police
here – and a large two story roadhouse.
Beautiful mountain scenery today –
            -11^th-
We left Stewarts Crossing at 6 a.m. – and
took dinner at “Wounded Moose” road
house at 12, and reached Indian River
roadhouse at 4 – We then prevailed
on the driver to attempt to make
Dawson – 27 miles farther.

<page break>

We gave him a purse of $15.00 and he took
us on flying. We reached the divide at the
head of Eldorado after dark – it was a
clear night – with a big round full moon,
and we raced down the 20 miles along the
famous Eldorado and Bonanza gulches by
the light of the moon, reaching Dawson at
10:30 – a trip of 75 miles since morning
- crossing two mountain divides – with
the thermometer far below zero. Was
met by Mr. Ed. S. Orr, former mayor of
Tacoma – went and had a bath and a
sleep at the bath rooms.
            -12^th-
Have had a string of callers today and
reporters. Orr and Charlie Taylor
took ~~dinner~~ {lunch} with me, and tonight for

<page break>

[typed:]
“Dinner to Judge James Wickersham
            by the Tanana Bar Association
Slough Cocktails
Soup
Chicken Giblet
Olives and Pickles
Shrimp Salad
Fish
Greyling
Salmi of Roast Duck
Green Peas
Roast Chicken
Mashed Potatoes
Asparagus
Nuts and Dates
Cheese    Coffee    Cigars
Fairbanks, Alaska, May 12, 1903.”

<page break>

[“Star-Spangled Banner” by Francis Scott
Key...4 verses, typewritten on carbon]

<page break>

dinner Orr and Roediger. Have
had a good visit with Fred Crouch and
Charlie Joynt, - introduced them to Mr.
Fitzhugh who has employed Fred to go to
“70 mile” with him as a miner. Am
at Regina Hotel, where Miss Ratcliff
is in charge as manageress. Wrote to
Debbie.
-13^th-
Lunch today with
Dr & Mrs Brown
He is secretary to
the Gov. & she was
one of the first
women correspond
ents to reach the
Dawson country
in 1898. Took
dinner with Mr.
& Mrs. Richard Roediger tonight
[printed schedule of Merchants Mail
Express between Dawson and Whitehorse
and Ben Downing’s Express between Dawson
and Fort Yukon, with stops and distances]

<page break>

            -14^th-
Accompanied by Mr Fitzhugh, a mining
engineer who is going to 70 Mile for an English
Co. – Mr. Phil. Blackwell, his secretary
and an interested stockholder – from London,
and George A. Jeffry my secretary – I left
Dawson this morning in a one horse
sled – 2 seats, four inmates – George
driving. Another sled driven by the
owner of both carried our baggage. We
had dinner at the 16 Mile roadhouse
and reached “40 Mile” tonight.
Corporal Bell, of the N.W.M.P. Mr.
Idleman, dept. Col. of Customs, U.S.
called – also others.
            -15^th-
Had a good nights rest at “Forty Mile” -
at the “Miners Home” hotel. Enjoyed a
good nights rest. Left there afoot

<page break>

early in the morning and had four miles walk
ahead of the team. Lunch at “Count”s
roadhouse – Castell – and reached
Eagle City at 8:30 p.m. Snowed
all afternoon hard, and made the
travelling very bad. Our driver and
stage owner – Hornby – paid $30.00
for fare and $7.00 for baggage. Met
Ben Downings stage yesterday before
we reached “Forty Mile.” Stampede to
Fairbanks has been largely diverted
through “Forty Mile” – up that river and
through the “Goodpasture” – back way
route, by stories of short route and
good trails. The real purpose was to
force the miners to outfit at Forty Mile
rather than at Eagle or Circle. It was an
outrage, and may result in loss of life –
and certainly will result in great loss of
time to those going that way on account of wate[r]

<page break>

as the creeks in the Goodpasture country
are all open and running. At Forty
Mile they informed us that they were now
advising everyone to go via Circle –
- they have sold all the provisions at
40 Mile!! which accounts for their
honesty. We passed dozens of “stam
-peders” on the trail from Dawson to Eagle
- horse teams, dog teams, and men pulling
their own sledges.
            -16^th-
Stopped at Heath hotel – same room that
Mrs. W & I had last fall. Opened court
at 11 oclock – called the docket and have
started the machine. I have learned
that there are probably a thousand men in
the Tanana diggings at Fairbanks now
and the trails lined with crowds going there.
Johansen is just back and his report
is favorable – a good low grade camp -

<page break>

he says – but not a bonanza.
I am now considering the plan of sending
Claypool and Edgar – the Comr. & Dept.
Marshal from Circle – in there with their
respective official records, &c. as well
as asking the military to send in a
detachment of ten men. #Have just had
a conference with Johansen, Comr.   Hess,
Dept. U.S. Dist. Atty, and Reynoldson, U.S. Dept.
Marshal, representing Perry, and have wired
Perry, for permission to send Edgar to Fairbanks
with Claypool. Am informed that crime
is prevalent there – and much high wines
for the manufacture of “Hootch” or native
whisky has already gone in.
            -17^th-
I was very much pleased and gratified by
the very cordial reception given last
night by the business men in

<page break>

connection with the Arctic Brotherhood.
Their reception was in the form of a
banquet, the tables being set in the
court room. Present the Mayor
and other town officials, the army
officers from Ft. Egbert, and the customs
post office and other officials, and the
business men of Eagle City generally-
The address of welcome was made by
Mr Hess, Asst. Dist. Atty.   Mr. Woodruff
presided – he is Arctic Chief. Mr
Ensign, the minister, Bevington, Miller,
Howard, Mills, Condon, and others
made happy after dinner remarks,
and all complimented me very highly
on my record as judge, both here and
at Nome. I was greatly pleased with
the function and feel sure that Eagle
people are my strong friends.

<page break>

I was mentioned for delegate to
Congress with loud cheers and every
assurance of support – I confined
my address to a review of the character
of the Anglo-Saxon people who are
nation building in Alaska, and
urged all to a continued support of
the courts and law and order.
Have sent on data to West Pub. Co.
for completion of details of 3^rd Div
cases, and also 1^st, leaving only the
Nome cases for correction – in
1^st Alaska Rep.   Edward McGrath
today paid me $35.00 in full for rent
of house (with other payments) to June 1.
            18^th
Mail! The Valdez mail came in
and this morning I received a bundle
- two letters from Debbie – and some

<page break>

official mail. Letter from Tom Sammons
saying that my Nome enemies have filed the
old charge in the department – what surprises
me is that they did not do it long ago. It
does not seem to be filed – but only “brought to
the attention” – I will pay no attention
to it – nor to any of their attacks. Recd.
lists of Alaska officials complete from
the Dept. and forwarded them today to the
West Pub. Co. for “First Alaska Report”
Also wrote long letter of details in publications
Debbie is confident of returning health in the
first letter – less so in the second. Will be
able to start to the northward about Sunday –
- but little in court, and am finishing
it pretty rapidly. Going out this a.m. to
dinner at Mr. Smiths – agent of A.C. Co.
Up river mail from Dawson due tomorrow.

<page break>

-19-
Splendid dinner last evening at Smiths –
Fitzhugh, Blackwell, George and I. Wrote
a long nice letter to Debbie today - &
told her to come to me in June at
Rampart. Have concluded to call the
principal term of court in the Yukon valley
this year at Rampart for July 6^th 1903.
Will have a Grand Jury & Trial Jury both
Recd. telegram from Perry approving
sending Edgar in to Fairbanks with Claypool.
Will also send Hess in with them.
            -20^th-
Court all day – McGowan came down
from Dawson yesterday and enabled me
to get his cases finished. Fully comple
=ted every thing before the court and when
court adjourned this evening the order
was that the adjournment be to meet at
Coldfoot on the 6^th of April.

<page break>

The officers at Ft. Egbert gave me the
most perfect dinner and evening –
a stag party – Capts Perkins, and Bunnell
of the Signal Corps, and Capt. Janda, Lt
Kelly, & Johansen, Woodruff, Mills, Smith
Stenger, Myers, Jeffry, Runyan, Hess,
Bevington.
            -21^st-
Left Eagle City early in a single horse sled
- two seats. Hornby driver – Hess, Jeffry & I.
Hess goes to Circle to go into Fairbanks with
Comr. & Dep. Mar. & George & I for Coldfoot.
I walked on ahead and they did not over
=take me until I had passed the north end
of Lords lake – 15 miles. Dinner at the
Sheep Creek roadhouse – when we met
Mrs. Dr. Fugard of Dawson on her way
into Fairbanks – also ~~Fred~~ Ernest Fay
and a shorthaired – sawed-off prostitute
dressed in mens clothing – each tending
[written over on diagonal:]
Canary birds wild.
Spring days.

<page break>

a sled and on their way into the diggings.
Bad trail in the afternoon and we did
not reach Nation roadhouse until after
9 oclock. Snowed part of the day & the
wind blew keenly in our faces in the after
noon.      Mr and Mrs Noyes, who keept
the “Halfway” Island roadhouse in 1900
now keep the Nation road house and we
had good supper and bed in the bunkhouse.
            -22-
Trails better today – but we only made
Charley Creek road house where we are
for the night. Mail carrier Roberts
is here going back to Eagle and I will
send a letter back to Debbie. Very windy
today – but clear and cold. Met Ed. Stier
formerly of Tacoma – 1886-1900 – jeweler,
at Montauk roadhouse yesterday on
his way into the diggings.

<page break>

            -23^rd-
Left Charley Creek at 6 oclock – afoot and
walked to Charley River – bad trail of soft snow.
Coal Creek for dinner and reached
Webers for night. House crowded with
stampeders on their way to digging at
Fairbanks via, Circle. “Col” Weber is the
same cranky old cuss. You either do as
he wants or you go on to the next roadhouse.
            -24^th-
Left Webers at 6, and after a hard days
journey came into Circle at 8 p.m.
Bath, dinner and good bed at Edgars.
Have heard many wild canary birds every
day on this trip and other spring birds
Spring is just at the door. Fine travel
-ing except one load was rather heavy
for a narrow sled. We were on our side
- turned over most of the time.

<page break>

            -25.-
Circle City. Mrs. Claypool sick
with la grippe. The town almost entirely
deserted – gone to Fairbanks diggings.
            -26^th-
Am with Edgar and Lizzie who are nicely and very
comfortably fixed in their cabin, which was built
some years ago and occupied by Mr & Mrs Mayor
Geise of Nome who then ran a tin[?] shop here.
Official matters seem to be all right here,
but there is much objection to removing the officers
of the Com & Dep. Mar. to Fairbanks and leaving the
place without them. Have concluded to send
Edgar & Hess to Fairbanks & leave Claypool
here – for the present at least, but to appoint
Tod. Cowles, Justice of the Peace for Fairbanks
& have Claypool appoint him a deputy
recorder under him. Dinner tonight with
Mrs. Jack Carr – Edgar & Lizzie! Mr & Mrs
Bob Geise spent the evening here &

<page break>

he told me he was one of the P.B. Weare crowd
- with Charlie Barber and Cranes who came in
to Alaska in 1895 or ‘6.
            -27-
Have inquired from every body coming out from
Coldfoot about the situation there, and also from
people here – and have determined not to go any
further in that direction, but to go to Fairbanks
instead. Have just written to McKenzie &
Heilig to that effect.
            -28^th-
Waiting for Barnette to come in from
Fairbanks so as to learn conditions there
- hear he is to be in tonight. Will probably
not go in until next mail arrives though.
Long talk with John McCloud – 26 yrs old,
born at Dease Lake, B.C. hunter, trapper
talks 7 different Indian languages –
wants to go to Mt. McKinley with me.

<page break>

            -29^th-
Sunday – Spent the day working on
Indian language – “Louchoux” – Athapas
=can, with Johnie McLeod & Phillip,
a Porcupine river Indian.
            -30^th-
Spent the day with John M. McLeod,
and two Louchoux Indians writing a
vocabulary of the Slavi and Louchoux.
McLeod is the son of a Hudson Bay Co.
factor – 26 yrs. old – and has resided
on the Mackenzie river, Yukon & in
the interior of British N.A. all his life
as hunter and trapper. Have just
presented him with a book “Hunting the
Grisly” by Pres. Thodore Roosevelt.
McLeod is a splendid hunter and has
killed many of that animal – and of
all kinds of game in this region.
He talks every Indian language in this
region – 7 dialects fluently.

<page break>

            Mch. 31^st
Spent day with Johnnie McLeod &
Indian studying Tinneh.
            April 1^st
Bought 9 marten skins – 6 for Debbie
& 3 for Mildred. Intend to add to
the number & get Mave Olds some fine
ones. Wrote Debbie a letter & sent her
some Circle & Nome pictures.
            -April 2^nd
Wrote letter to Darrell – his birthday.
Left Circle at 10 a.m. for Tanana
Reached 12 Mile Road house for lunch.
17 Mi. road house kept by Mr & Mrs Adams
of Eagle, - fine baby. Stopped at the
“Jump off” road house for the night
kept. by Blanchard & McCoy from
Tacoma – Ed. Steir. here for the night.

<page break>

McCoy is married to Blanchards daughter.
She is a fine cook - and will soon present
her last years new husband with an heir.
            -3rd-
We left the "Jump Off" at 7 this morning. It is
22 miles from Circle. Good bed there but slept
none. Ed, Steir, partner & horse left with us.
Reached "Central" roadhouse for lunch,
and Millers tonight 58 miles from Circle.
We have to go over the divide 7 miles above
here, near Mastodon dome, and as it
has been blowing on the summit for three
or four days, and impossible to cross there
is a crowd here - probably 50 at the road
house, and 100 in the timber between here
and the summit, and more coming hourly.
A larger number went up this morning
and tried to cross but were forced back
by the wind and flying snow. Late this

<page break>

evening, however, Mr. Rice, Episcopal
minister came into camp, having safely
crossed this way, and reports the storm
abated. We will try it in the morning.
"Millers" consists of several log cabins
- some stables and a corral. This is
headquarters for Jack Gregor's mining
venture - he is clearing & putting in steam
plant - shovel - to handle the gravel into
sluice boxes- Hess and George Jeffry are
late, and may not get here until tomorrow.
            -4th-
Nice morning but out of the 35 men in the
Miller house none seemed to want to make
the start-, 2 or 3 of us insisted upon going
across the divide - Callahan and others
would look at the sky and then exclaim
how bad the summit would be - that it
would be blowing so hard that nothing

<page break>

could live on it &c. and crook-croak
went the weak ones. I finally prevaled on
2 or three to start - made Edgar go - and
I went on with the first sled - 6 miles
brought us in sight of the summit - and
it was clear! I reached there with two
men who had camped within a mile & was
the first to cross - Sent back word
how good it was at at 10:30 crossed.
No one ahead of me - Men, horses, dog
teams, sleds - every thing in sight coming
Miller Pass is between the head of Miller
Creek, and Eagle Creek - between Mastodon
Dome & Porcupine dome - 1500 to 2000
{above us - but 4500 ft above sea level}
ft hight and looks like the Chilkoot.
Stopped at first cabin down Eagle
for lunch - Edgar with team caught up
- ours was first team over - and we
went on to mouth of Eagle & then down

<page break>

Birch Creek to mouth of 12 Mile
Found tent there occupied by three miner
- Gus. Miller from Tacoma - old town -
young Norton from California and old
Bill Woodman - a typical, grizzled
frontiersman and hunter. Occupied
their tent with them - 5 in a row - they
fed us fine. Abe. Spring came
by going up after another load this
morning - his son Solly with him.
Walked 25 miles yesterday!
            -5th-
Left camp on Birch Creek - went down one
mile then turned west into 12 Mile gulch.
Passed a tent two or three miles up and
came to forks - new trail up lefthand
and Edgar thought it was right road - we
went two miles - into snow waist
deep - raw labor - struggles - profanity.

<page break>

Finally found we were on wrong trail
and turned back – broke handle bar
off sled – Nate Zimmer & Gus – two
miners came down the blind gulch with
cariboo meat – we had followed their
trail toward their cache on the snowy
divide at the head of the gulch – They
assisted us to mend our sled – and at
one oclock we turned up the right road –
tired and worn out. Many of the Miller
Creek stampeders had arrived and a few were
ahead of us – We pushed on to the head
of “12 Mile” and camped in an empty tent
just below the summit. Condon & Stevens
were ahead of us & the four of us camped
together. Tent warmer – but unable to sleep,
- too tired. Am dreadful tired of Edgars
extreme profanity.

<page break>

            -6th-
Found a storm raging across the pass
when we woke this morning - Packed and
pushed up in the face of a violent gale of
wind and snow - Went down the west
side into Chatnika River – flying, with
sled locked and Edgar dragging. Snow
deep and trail bad - Passed horse sleds
with animals down - Condon and Stevens
following hard - Made no stop until
we reached the roadhouse at the mouth of
Faith Creek - 23 miles - walked all the
way - Met Oscar Smith miner, at this
cabin and he made some good "sour dough"
pancakes for me for supper. Good bunk,
but cold - 8 in house 12 X 12.
            -7th- A most beautiful
morning - the snow storm has gone by and
it is clear - but quite cold. We are now
ahead of all those at Miller Creek,

<page break>

even Condon & Stevens, have to go back
6 miles for one load which they left last
night. They have agreed to meet us at a
tent 50 miles down stream - if they can
make the run. We stopped at a moose camp
for dinner - fine dinner - McCarty was
his name, James McCarty, and reached
Showers empty tent for the night. It is in
a splendid grove of spruce on the north
side of the river - and we were joined by a
lone miner with the pack on his back - his
name is Joe. Cascade, from Chicken Creek
- born in Bunan Co. Ill. Edgar cut
two fingers badly on a tin can - Good supper
- cooked by ourselves - our friend joined us.
General course of the Chitinika River is
W.S.W. and it empties into the Tanana just
north of Fairbanks. Wrote to Debbie from
roadhouse last night & sent it out
by Smith - Write another tonight = Cascade

<page break>

            -8^th-
Fine trail from tent down river – reached the
camp of some Yukon Indians after noon – they
had killed a moose – and cooked us some steak
and gave us some tea. Walked hard until late
- reached the end of Chatinika river trail
- crossed a long point and came upon Cleary
Creek – stopped Nobles cabin – he is
a Pierce Co. Wash. man and was one of those
out at the T.L. & W. Co. springs on upper Muck – “Thomas
& Patterson” springs – Several other miners there
and we camped on the floor – but were warm.
Noble and McCarty are very sanguine that
they have rich ground on Cleary Creek.
            -9^th-
Came across from Cleary to Pedro Creek.
Sight from summit superb! White mountains
far to the north and east seem to be domes
at the head of Beaver and Birch Creeks.

<page break>

Hazy to the west and south and could
not see the Coast Range. Dinner with
"Jack. Costa" an Italian who has a rich
mine on Pedro. As his happy, smiling
face
{like the full moon over the Ketchunstock hills,}
emerged from his pit he remarked
- probably for the thousandth time - "By
Godde, I gotte de gold" - Down Pedro
to Gold Stream, across the divide and reached
Fairbanks at 5 oclock. Frank Cleary, in
charge of Barnetts establishment gave us
a bed in side room of store, and arranged that
we take our meals at Wada's restaurant - Japanese
J. Tod Cowles took his oath of office as Justice
of the Peace, and gave his bond.
            -10th-
Good nights rest - visited around town - inspected
things: streets laid out regular - corners set
& making map - suggested that one street be
named Cushman & one Lacy - done

<page break>

Edgars lot had been jumped, but he made
a settlement & got it back. They offer us a lot
on a central corner for a jail, and Frank Cleary
offers me a corner. I find a conflict of interest
and some feeling between this place & "Chena" at
the mouth of the slough & junction with Tanana.
Mr & Mrs. Wissel of Chena came in to see me
today & presented a letter from citizens of Chena
asking me to come & see that place with a view
of locating recorders offices &c. there. Agreed to
go down Monday. Wrote a good long letter to
Debbie today & sent her map of route from
Circle to Fairbanks and a blue print map
of "Creeks". Probably the last letter which will
get out to her. Met "Windy Jim," tonight &
he gave me some of his yarns and information
about the route to Mt. McKinley.   Dog team
went back today. Gave Ben. Bennett a
power of attorney to stake placer mines for me
He goes out to Fish & other creeks tomorrow.

<page break>

There is not now, and never was a white
child in Fairbanks - nor, so far as those
best acquainted know, in the Tanana valley!
A pioneer country indeed! There are
2 women of easy life here, and ~~none~~ {2} other
that I know of. Two weeks ago Rev. Mr.
Rice, Episcopal mister from Circle held
services here in Marstons dining room just
off the saloon - the first of that kind in this
immense and splendid valley.
            -11th-
Beautiful day - 20º below zero last night
- clear and cold - but everything bathed in warm
sunshine today. 2 days ago I noticed the
pussy willows unfolding cat tails, and gather
=ed birch limbs covered with swollen buds -
the streams are opening - the Tanana river
is open and running for many miles above
here - spring is just here - is arriving.

<page break>

The Tanana valley is cold in the winter - but
is still destined to be the garden spot of Alaska
The stampeders whom we left at Miller Creek
Roadhouse, and those whom we passed on the
Chatnika are coming in at this noon-
already a dozen dog teams have come in-
Condon & Stevens first. Hess and Jeffry
will probably be in tonight. Gave Al. Helty
power of attorney to stake for me - and also
Ole Peterson. 7 p.m. George is just now crossing
the river into town - Hess arrived at 4 oclock.
Sun still shining brightly at setting.
            -12th- Sunday-
The first child born in Fairbanks made
its appearance ~~toda~~ yesterday. Its name
- its father's name is McCarty and its mother
is an Indian woman from Koyukuk.
Dr. Fugard - a lady physician just came
in this morning over the Circle City trail.

<page break>

The people took up a collection yesterday
and I sent out a telegram for them to the Postmaster
Genl. as follows:
            "Goodpasture, Alaska, April 11, 1903
Postmaster General, Washington, D.C.
One thousand miners Fairbanks, Tanana river,
two hundred miles from Eagle, Circle, Rampart,
without postoffice. They request appointment
postmaster by telegraph. Earnestly urge appointment
Frank J. Cleary. Carrier takes this telegram
two hundred miles, waits answer. Great necessity.
Route Circle - Mastadon, Fairbanks.
“           James Wickersham
            District Judge, Alaska,
“           Also
            Goodpasture, Alaska, April 11, 1903
Edward McGrath
      Postal Inspector, Eagle, Alaska.
One thousand miners Fairbanks and no
postoffice. Immediate action necessity.
Have telegraphed situation postmaster General
Frank J. Cleary satisfactory postmaster. Wont
you act quick.
            James Wickersham
“           District Judge, Alaska

<page break>

I also sent the following telegram to Heilig.
"           Fairbanks, Alaska, April 11, 1903
A. R. Heilig, Clerk, Eagle, Alaska.
Make order July term Rampart July twenty
instead sixth. All at Fairbanks safe.
            James Wickersham
            District Judge, Alaska
The citizens employed "Windy Jim" Dodson to
carry these messages up to the first telegraph
station - 30 miles up the Goodpasture
river - 150 miles away. He starts in the
morning early.
     Order of court adjourning Rampart term
from 6th to the 20th and sent notice by letter
to Heilig also to Claypool - carrier goes out
to Circle tomorrow. Wrote to Debbie also.

<page break>

            -13th-
In response to the invitation sent to me by
the people of Chena (pronounced (Che-naw΄)
I went down there this morning accompanied by
Mr. Hess. The "Isabella" and "Jennie M" lie
halfway down - drawn up into a small slough
to escape the water where it opens in the spring.
The "Isabella" is a fine large boat of above 60
or more tons and belongs to Barnett : the other
is smaller. The U.S. telegraph station is a mile
this side of Chena and is a log cabin on the bank
of the river. Found about 300 people at Chena
buisily engaged in building houses. A committee
- Hendricks, Dr. Danforth, Wissel, Oldfield,
and couple of others met us - we went to Oldfields
restaurant, but Hendricks took us over to
his headquarters where Mrs. Currier who

<page break>

came up the river with us last fall, got us
up a fine dinner. She is a great Yankee
woman. After dinner the committee con
=ducted us around. Half a dozen or so houses
completed but a hundred in process of
construction. Hendricks and Belt are tearing
down their store buildings across on the south
side of the Tanana and moving them over here
     It presents as thrifty and busy a scene as
Fairbanks - and has some advantages - or at
least one: it is on the main river! Saw
a moose head. Hendricks & Belt, killed a year
ago by the Indians measuring 72 inches across-
The most magnificent pair of horns I ever saw!
Met Pedro here and many of the residents.
Pedro came back to Fairbanks and paid
me a visit tonight. Promises me the old
gold pan with which he made discovery
of the camp. Have determined after my

<page break>

visit to Chena to go ahead here and build
a jail – Fairbanks is nearer to the mines
yet discovered, - ~~half{~~mid}way – on the road from
Chena to the mines. Mt. McKinley can be seen
from Chena – halfway across the river – but it was so
hazy we did not see it. Recd. a telegram from
John N. Conna tonight asking when I was
coming to Rampart. Cannot answer from
here – as the telegraph line is two miles back
of town – and no office. Beautiful spring day.
            -14^th-
Am preparing specifications for a jail to be
built here at Fairbanks. Will reserve one
lot 50 X 150 ft. square, - no courthouse at
present. Examination of Wm Duenkel
in progress today before Mr. Cowles, J.P. Mr Hess
appears for the prosecution and Kellum for
defense. The first criminal proceeding

<page break>

- or civil either – ever held in the Tanana
valley – Jeffry took dictation – with evidence.
Bob Kemp goes out to Eagle in the morning and
I have written Capt Bunnell, signal corps, a
letter urging that a station be located here – a teleg
=raph station. Also wrote Debbie a short letter.
Rev. Mr. Ensign, Pres. minister from Eagle came
in {to camp} this evening, and has concluded to build
a church tomorrow. Tendered him a small
subscription, and a days work. Will go out
on the “Creeks” in the morning with Frank Cleary-
Have made power of attorney to Pedro to locate
mines for me. Beautiful spring day –
birds singing – tonight it is warm – and
the owls are hooting – the south wind is rising and
it seems that a storm is brewing.
            -18^th-
Left Fairbanks on the morning of the

<page break>

18^th with Frank Cleary for the “Creeks”. We
took Kellums dog team, and reached Frank
Costas for night. Costa owns no 2 above
on Pedro Creek. Has a little cabin 10 ft square
and Frank Evans and his wife cook for him.
All of them are from Carbonado, Washington
- Costas, Jack and Frank and Felix Pedro –
also Evans and several others. Costas cabin
is only about 6 ft. high and you stoop to get in
the door – round pole floor and a small window
on the south side with 2 lights of glass – dirt!
Two bunks – foot to foot – I slept in one – Mr & Mrs
Evans in the other – She modestly went out side while
I went to bed – and turned her back when I got
up next morning. The men slept in a
small pole shack and a tent in the yard.
We had moose meat and sour dough pancakes
and tea! The morning of the 16^th Jack

<page break>

and Frank Costa panned from their dump –
pans averaged 8 c each – his paystreak is said
to be 2 yards deep and 50 wide and the length of
his claim – if so it is worth nearly half a million!!
On the 16^th we went on up Twin Creek – Pedro
came to Costas and went with us – to Jesse Nobles
on Cleary Creek. ~~We panned~~ Noble is from Pierce
Co. Wash – out on Nusqually river – he is a hard
working prospector and has very valuable
claims on Cleary. Remained all night with him.
Met Pete Kling, a Skagit Co. logger – now
a miner. On looking around I found that the
bench claim on the west side of discovery on
Cleary was not located, and staked it for myself.
With snow shoes I began at Pedros N.W. Cor.
stake and ran my north line west 660 ft.
- cut off a spruce tree and squared it for
the N.W. cor. of my claim and marked it. Then

<page break>

beginning at his south west corner stake I ran
my south line 660 ft. & cut and squared another
spruce tree for corner. I “swamped out”, or
cleared both lines, and blazed trees. Employed
Jesse Noble to sink a shaft to bed rock – no
price agreed on – reasonable price.
[captions:]
Frank Gage Bench
Bench off Discovery
Left Limit:
Located April 16^th 1903
James Wickersham
No. 1 above
shaft   shaft   Cleary Creek
“Discovery”
Pedros claim

<page break>

Pedros nearest shaft is but little more than
100 ft. from my line – he gets 25c to the pan there
and pay grows better toward my line! On the
17^th we panned on Pedros dumps on Discovery
Cleary – it seems to be very rich – 25c to the
pan – the dump averaged 8 oz – a fortune it
seems to me. Pedro, Noble and Cleary own
very promising property. We crossed back
to Pedro Creek and remained the night of the
17^th with Pedro, in his primitive log cabin. He
and Joe Miller are partners – Joe is a Portugese,
and an old Mastadon Creek miner. He owns
No1. above Pedros discovery on Pedro Creek.
Pedro gave us moose meat ~~and~~ for
each meal. Joe Miller and one employe are
busy whip sawing spruce boards for sluice
boxes for the spring clean up of the biggest dump
on any of the creeks. Today we panned on

<page break>

Pedros claim on Pedro creek – and on
McCartys and Willigs on Gold Stream.
Pans about the same from 5c to 8c – very rich
dirt, with from 3 to 7 feet thick. While at
Willigs I wrote Claypool a letter and sent
it out by a passerby, instructing him to buy
for me: from Emma Kelly – the fraction on west
side of Costas: from Pete Wilson his claim on
Fish and from Frank Gage his bench off No 1.
above on Cleary. Limited him to $100. on each.
Have other claims in sight to buy – Am confident
from what I have seen that the mines are perma
=nent and rich. Reached Fairbanks tonight
bath &c. Recd. telegram from J. Lindy Green
about application for receiver from Ram
=part. More people reaching here every
day down the Tanana – nearly all in now
from Circle – weather warm – thawing and
trails rapidly going.

<page break>

            -20^th-
Spent yesterday and today in preparing orders
reserving lot at corner of 2^nd & 3^rd Ave. on
Cushman St. Fairbanks, for Courthouse
and Jail site, in preparing specifications
for jail building, call for bids &c. Have caused
call for bids to be posted, one at Barnetts store,
Fairbanks, one at Belt & Hendricks store, Chena,
and another on the main trail to the mines. Bids
are to be received by 12 m. Saturday 25^th   The
building is to be of spruce logs, and of the
usual type – except strong and heavy.
[captions:] 30 ft long
Cell 10 X 10
Cell 7 X 10
Cell 7 X 10
corridor   Guardroom   closet
24 ft wide
Plan of Fairbanks log jail. 1903.

<page break>

Fairbanks is situated on the south side
of the Chena, ten miles above its junction with
the Tanana. Prior to the discovery of gold by
Pedro last July it consisted only of Barnetts
camp, but upon learning of that strike he
erected a large log store, staked off a trading
site and began the foundation of a town.
At this time there are three streets roughly staked
out through the woods, parallel to the river.
The site was covered with a fine body of spruce timber
from 6 to 24 inches in diameter, which is now
being cut and built up into houses, The “Fairbanks”
hotel is a two story log house, and lodges 40 or 50
people. There are probably 500 people here –
mostly in tents, but log houses are being constructed
as rapidly as possible. Several men are sawing
these logs into boards with the whip saw, and
such hand made lumber sells for $200 to
$240 per thousand feet. I saw a pile of

<page break>

of such boards, nicely piled for drying – 1 foot
wide, 1 inch thick and 20 feet long! The
town is just now in its formation period –
town lots are at a premium – jumping, staking
recording, building! It is a motley crowd too.
Miners {“sour doughs” “chechacos”}
gamblers, Indians {Negroes} Japanese, dogs,
prostitutes, music, drinking! It is rough
but healthy - the beginning – I hope, of an American
Dawson. There is much rivalry between this
town and Chena at the mouth of the river,
but my own judgment is that this place, being
nearer to the mines – as now discovered – will
for that reason be the better location and I have,
therefore resolved to build a jail here and locate
the public offices here also. It will be easy
to change them later if necessary to do so.
Spring is here – robins – and other birds – the
snow is melting, buds growing – and in another
30 days it will be glorious.

<page break>

            21^st
Went 5 miles down the Chena to visit the
camp of old Koo-nah, the Tanana medicine
man. Was interested in their camp – situated
on river bank – in woods – three tents – dogs
children – snow shoes – sleds – moose meat
- tanned skins - & Julius & Ellen tanning a
moosehide. It was hung over a stake
while one cleaned the flesh side of clinging
flesh with a chisel of steel set
in a wooden handle. Formerly
this cleaning tool was made of the shin
bone of the moose ~~flattened~~ cut down so as to
leave a chisel like edge as follows,
with thong to hold around waist.
With this tool they clean the skin of
surplus flesh very quickly – then removing
the hair – they finish tanning the skin for
moccasins – clothing &c. I was

<page break>

also interested in a birch bark cradle
            It sits flat – but the
            back rises – and it is
ornamented with beads, &c. The baby was
bound in with its little legs only hanging out.
Much like wicker work baskets in the south
- along the Rocky Mt. Slope. Gave
power of attorney also, to Charles
Mack, who will locate me on
Fairbanks Creek where he has just
struck pay.
            -22^nd-
Old “Koonah” – Tanana Medicine Man
spent the day with me – Julius interpreted
Vocabulary & story about “Tah-cho” and
Mt. McKinley, - “Dēē-nä-ly”, “High”.
Met and talked to a miner by the name
of Allen who went up the Toclat, and
across to the Kuskokwim River, in May

<page break>

and June last year or the year before &
he tells me we can go that way with horses
without trouble. Keep on the east bank of
the Toclat – on the high ground, & go straight
- or nearly so toward the great mountain.
Mail: A miner by the name of Laughery
came in tonight with my mail from Circle –
3 letters from Debbie – I am now very sorry that
I did not have my way last fall and resign & stay
at home with her. From what she says and the
tone of her letters I am afraid of the result of her
illness. Recd. salary for Dec. & Jany. also
expense account for quarter ending Dec. 31^st
Little official mail and nothing new from
Washington. Nothing from Genl. Funston about
horses to McKinley.
            -24^th-
Old Koonah, the Tanana shaman,
again visited me, with “Ellen” as his

<page break>

interpreter – Ellens Indian name is
Chō-tā-ā-din-nah, and though young
she is living with her 5^th husband having
procured her freedom from marital ties by walking
off from her former incumbrances. Completed
a good vocabulary of the Tanana dialect of
the Athapascan tongue. Recd. telegram
today from J. Lindley Green, Comr. at Rampart
saying that a new and rich strike had been made
30 miles north of Rampart on Moose Lick Creek.
Also second telegram saying that some man by
the name of Patterson had murdered a negro
by the name of Page near Lake Mentaw –
on Lower Gold Stream. Warrant issued &
Edgar & Johnnie McLeod will go tonight after
it freezes. Suit today over town lot in
Chena – brought Dr. Frugard. Mrs. Wissel
& Hendricks up – they took dinner with me
at Jap. Kitch. Cleary also present

<page break>

Making maps and other preparation for our
trip to Mt. McKinley. Byron Allen, and
Hendricks assisting me with suggestions –
both having been near McKinley.

Saloons and prominent characters
in Fairbanks – Saloons: “Pioneer”
“Fairbanks” and “Northern”, and now
fitting the “Tanana”. Barnetts store
was the only mercantile establishment.
E. T. Barnett, merchant, Frank J. Cleary
his brotherinlaw and clerk. Wada, a Japanese
also clerk in Barnetts, with “Titus,” an Indian
boy assistant. Barnett seems to own the
“Northern” saloon, but Geo. A. Noble, from
Seattle manages it. The “Fairbanks” is in
that hotel and Marston owns both.
Dave Petrie owns the “Pioneer” and his brother
is clerk – Bill Robinson from Circle is

<page break>

filling up the “Tanana” in a new 2 story log
house. “Chee-Chaco Lil” has reached town
from Dawson and has purchased at small
establishment on 2^nd Ave. There are three
others of her kind here including a negress,
“Windy Jim” Dobson carried our dispatches
200 miles up to the telegraph line which is
now {halfway} down the Goodpasture river. Abe
Spring put out the first lawyers
sign in the Tanana valley last week,
though he was not the first lawyer to
reach here.
            -25^th-
Went out early this morning with Frank
J. Cleary and George Jeffry to locate placer
claims on the unnamed creek just north of town
Found that S. R. Weis had already staked just at
the point where the trail crossed, and Chas. F.
Burkhard just below him on Mch 9^th.

<page break>

Beginning just above Weis – next to him we
staked claims across the length of the stream,
first for Hess, then for me, Darrell, George
Cleary, Barnett & his wife. Asked to suggest
a name for the creek I called it “Isabella”
after Mrs. Barnett – Franks sister. This
creek lies on the Fairbanks side of the divide &
heads up with Engineer and Steel – both of which
carry gold gravels. Frank will go out again
early Monday morning & set the corner stakes
& then make other locations – we intend to put
two men to work at once to sink two holes to
bed rock – somewhere in the group.
            -26^th-
Mr. Ensign, Presbyterian minister, came up
from Chena and held services today – the first in
the Tanana valley – Hess, I, George & Frank Cleary
constituted the audience.
{Ensign took dinner with me after services.}
Made contract of

<page break>

optional purchase with Chas. Willig for
following placer mining claims, tomorrow:
½ of No 4. above Discovery on Pedro Creek.
        No 8     “            “           “ Gilmon   “
¾ of No 6. below       “           “ Gold Stream.
        No 2 above       “            “ Cleary Creek
½ of No 1. Below       “           “ Bear        “
        No 2 above         “           “ Kokomo “
          “ 3 above         “           “ Treasure “
Contract in duplicate, acknowledged before
J. Tod. Cowles. Notary in the morning - Also
advance him $200. for development work.
Claims on Pedro, Cleary & Gold Stream are known
to be good – option price $5000. in 1 year,
for a half interest only.
            27^th
Started down to Chena early this morning to
get the benefit of hard trail – but it was soft
& bad. Saw Hendricks and two other

<page break>

men who have been up the Kantashnai river
of which the Tolcat is the head & lefthand branch
- made arrangements with Hendricks to buy
outift from him, and he also agreed to take
the party and outfit up the Kantashnai to the
forks, - sixty miles
{on the ‘Tanana Chief” – a small steamer}
Martin and another
prospector say that the “Tanana Chief” can
go up to the forks – and that we will save
several days time and all the hard work of
cutting brush {by this assistance.}
We will make camp there
& cache a boat, so that we can come down
from that point without delay. No danger
in small boat from there. Also made
arrangement with Hendricks for our outfit.
He will go immediately after the ice goes
down the Tanana. Walked down to Chena
& back – bad trail – water running in Chena
& saw big Mallard drake, this side of Steamboats
in the rising river current.

<page break>

            -28^th-
River and trail going to peices fast – very
warm – spring has come. Pedro, Noble
and Dan McCarty are in town and I have
invited them to a dinner this evening – have
also invited, L.C. Hess, E.B. Condon B.A.
Dodge, Abe Spring, H.J. Miller and J.
Tod Cowles, all the lawyers in camp – in the
Tanana valley – and Frank J. Cleary &
intent to make it a pleasant affair.
George has pup and the menu cards of birch
bark, and we have Pedros old gold pan –
the one that was used to discover the camp –
as a waiter for “hooch”, &c. I intend to
send it to Senator Fairbanks.

The first banquet ever held in the Tanana Valley
was a decided success. The dinner was fine
and the company very agreeable & pleasant

<page break>

During the evening I learned that Mr. Allan
R. Joy from Koyukuk, had reached town and we
sent Mr. Condon out for him – he makes the seventh
lawyer in town – Hess, Condon, Spring, Miller,
Dodge, Cowles & Joy. These together with
Pedro, Cleary, McCarty and Noble sat round
the table. The responses to toasts were very
interesting, especially the tales of Pedro and
Cleary as to the early days last year when the
settlement of Fairbanks & the discovery by Pedro
were in progress. Pedro first saw steamboat
smoke from the summit of Pedro dome & came
down off the mountains & met Barnett here –
Pedro gave me his original gold pan – it was
used as a waiter to serve drinks, cigars &c to the
guests and its use was an evident surprise and
pleasure to Pedro. His plain, honest,
straightforward story of his hardships &

<page break>

discovery was the address of the evening.
Cleary came next with the history of Barnetts
trading post. Menu cards of birch bark
[typed menu:]
“           HIYU MUCK-AMUCK.

Hooch – Chena Cocktails.
Consomme, a la Tawtilla.
Olives.
Chicken Mayonaise, Oyster Paties.
Sauterne.
Wine Jelly, Cream Sauce.
ROAST MOOSE, PROSPECTOR STYLE.
Mashed Potatoes, Green Peas.
Ice Cream – Yuma Canned.
Jelly Cake.
Nuts, Raisins, Cheese, Coffee,
Cigars.
Fairbanks, Alaska,
April 28, 1903.”

            -29^th-
Working hard against the most irritating
obstacles to get ready to go to Mt. McKinley
High price of horses proves troublesome – Hendricks
was up today – on town organization scheme.
Everything favorable – but horses – we can
certainly overcome that.

<page break>

            -30^th-
Mail. Webb, who went out for some
supplies, got back this morning and brot
mail – One from Debbie & Darrell – both
well. Much official mail – but of no
great importance. Frank J. Cleary
assisted by James Eagle measured off
a lot for me this morning 40 X 150. at the
{N.E.}
corner of Barnetts Trading site, corner of Front
& Cushman, and I am preparing a contract
with Eagle for the erection of a log building
thereon 16 X 24. ft square. At
     Recd. Jennies wedding Cards-
Dinner tonight with Marston & his friends
at “The Fairbanks”. Twenty people fine dinner
music, cigars, songs &c. Pleasant evening.
     Contract with Eagle to build one story
log house on my lot for $400.00

<page break>

            -May 1^st-
Eagle began on my house today. Corner of
First Ave. &. Cushman St. Was offered a good
ground rental for 4 years & the party offered to
put up the building – but for gambling
{& saloon.} - refused.
Bought a splendid good mare this afternoon
for $50.00 Marston bought her for me – we
are now pretty sure of our Mt. McKinly trip.
Dictated all my letters today – and will leave
nothing behind – undone – when we go.
            -3^rd-
Beautiful spring Sunday! The river
is thawing and rising rapidly and the ice
must go out in a few days. Ducks, geese,
robins, birds, squirrels, - the wood are
vocal with animal and bird song. The
Tanana valley is the garden spot of
Alaska – Have begun on the preparation
of “The Fairbanks Miner”, which

<page break>

I will have George print on typewriter.
            -4^th-
Sick for two days with dysentery and gas in
stomach. Got old “No 4” prescription this evening
& hope to be better in the morning. Have
made & delivered deed to Jeffry & Hess of 60
feet off south end of my lot – Am not quite
satisfied about it for Hess is inclined to be “off”
since he quit boarding with us at the Japs
- why, I do not know. River rising very
rapidly – and ice may go out soon.
            -5^th-
River rising 1 inch per hour, ice breaking
loose from bottom, and looks as if it will go
out within two days – Pretty sick last night
but better today. House progressing.
Have had good offer to lease the lot – but
cannot do so – for they want it for saloon.

<page break>

            -6^th-
My lot is going to yield an immediate
income – I leased two spots for tents today
at $20 per month – each, and will have more.
Wada, the Jap. merchant wants to go to the
mountain with me – I have consented-
            -7^th-
Worked all day on mss. for “Fairbanks Miner”,
the first newspaper in the Tanana valley which
I am having George print on the typewriter.
Chena river broke up in front of town & {ice} moved
down quarter of a mile.
            -8^th-
O’Connor, of Tacoma, gave me a fine
pack saddle for Mt. McKinley trip. He used
to be a policeman in Tacoma, - last under
Orr. Comes now from Dawson, where they
got him to become a British citizen to vote,
& now he is in a peck of trouble.

<page break>

Made an order today, in the matter of the
incorporation of Fairbanks, setting the time
for hearing objections thereto on July 27^th 1903
at Rampart, - order to post notices.
            -9^th-
We completed the “Fairbanks Miner”
today. I wrote every word of it except the
poem, and arranged it – George A. Jeffry
my stenographer did the type writing. We
completed seven copies only – I gave one
to Mr. Hess, one to E.B. Condon and one
to Frank J. Cleary. Condon will read
his to the multitude in the saloons. I will
send one to Senator Fairbanks and keep
one. Will also give Stevens one.
     Ice Went Out. While the river in
front of town broke on the 7^th & moved down
a little way, yet at 3 oclock this afternoon
the grand break came, and the river rose two

<page break>

feet or more and is now running high with
heavy ice. I am surprised at its force
and quantity. It is not equal to the Yukon
- but nearly so, and is a wonderful manifest
=ation of the natural force of water & ice.
It came down suddenly, without warning,
and in five minutes the ice was pushing up into
the woods, breaking into great sections, pushing
grinding, rolling, and tearing: - an irresist
-ible flood of ice, mud and water. It
was surprisingly great for so small a
river. We will evidently get away soon now,
to Mt. McKinley.
     The Bar Association today filed a petition for
the appointment of a dept. clerk at Fairbanks,
and also gave me a formal invitation to attend
a banquet next week on the eve of my departure
for Mt. McKinley.

<page break>

            -10^th-
            Steamboat.
At eight oclock this morning
the “Isabella” came up the
river to Fairbanks, her flags
flying and her whistle blowing.
A heavy jam of ice just below the
slough where the steamers lay is
pushing the water out over the valley
- down there. During the day we
went over to North Fairbanks on the
Isabella to land the ferry cable.
Three boats came in today from up
river – they report that the Tanana
is pushing water into the Chena
through a cut-off, and it is hoped
that it will continue to do so. More
ice is running today – but the

<page break>

Chena is open full length to the
Tanana. Cleary promises to
take an excursion to Chena on
Wednesday, including my Mt. Mc
Kinley party. Wada has now
concluded not to go with us on
account of heart troubles – we
cannot run the risk of his life, and
of spoiling our trip. Bion A. Dodge,
attorney, let me have his binocular
glasses for the mountain trip – they are
the finest made, and will be a great help
to me. Am going to dinner tonight at
new restaurant in Wadas building – present
Cleary, Hess, Condon, Noble, Robertson, Cowles,
& I. dinner with compliments of house, prop.
Smith &          Fine goose dinner.
            -11^th-
The ice jammed at the mouth of the Chena

<page break>

and is overflowing the valley down between
the telegraph station & the town of Chena.
            -12^th-
Jams at Chena threatening that place –
It will always be subject to the threat & will
be drowned out at times – Fairbanks is the
superior town site. Owing to the lateness of
the season we will not get started to Mt McKin
=ley for a week probably. We are all ready
though.   Was tendered a most flattering
dinner tonight by the Tanana Bar Association
Bion A. Dodge, Pres. E.B. Condon, Secretary
Mr. Dodge presided, but Condon acted as toast
=master. Dinner was in the Tanana Restaurant,
& all the lawyers except Spring were present
- he was at Chena & could not get back on
account of the ice. The large room was elegantly
decorated with flags, curtains, evergreens &
bunting – the latter red, white and blue mus=

<page break>

quito bar! The floor was carpeted with
sweet-smelling spruce boughs, and the
music, - violin and guitar was {in an alcove} behind
curtains. Dr. Whitney sang Annie Laurie
& Ben Bolt, - we all sang America and
the Star Spangled banner. Toasts were
proposed & responses by Dodge, Hess, I
& Miller. The dinner was good – this is copy
of the menu:
“Dinner to Judge James Wickersham
            by the Tanana Bar Association
Slough Cocktails.    Soup: Chicken Giblet.
Olives & pickles. Shrimp Salad, Fish: Grayling.
Salmi of Roast Duck, Green Peas, Roast Chicken
(Grouse), Mashed Potatoes, Asparagus, Nuts
& Dates, Cheese, Coffee, Cigars.
            Fairbanks, Alaska, May 12, 1903.”
On the reverse side was a copy of the words of
the Star Spangled Banner”.

<page break>

In response to my toast I spoke of the
courage and honesty of lawyers and defended
them from the prevalent slander of trickery
and dishonesty. The music was the feature
of the evening. Morgan plays the violin like
a master, and Dr. Whitney sang well.
I wore my full dress suit – the first ever worn
in the Tanana valley – the only one present,
too.
            -13^th-
Was given a dinner tonight at the Tokio
restaurant by my Japanese friends – present
Wada, Hess, Cowles, Edgar, George, Robert
=son, and Johnnie McLeod, - the intention
was to dine the McKinley Alpine party, except
Stevens who has had some dispute with the
Japs. Johnnie McLeod left in his birch
bark canoe for the junction of the Chena with
the Tanana to post some signs for the

<page break>

town, but will overtake us at Chena on
Sunday. Beautiful warm sunny days.
            -14^th-
Beautiful warm day. Raft with 6 men
aboard came down Tanana & Chena & arrived
this morning, - report many more coming
that way- The Tanana ice went out yester
-day but the “Tanana Chief” is not free from
the ice – we are going down on Saturday.
We are now all ready – to go – everything first
class except the packhorse. “Aunt Sally” is
poor and not strong.
            -15^th-
Tanana Bar Association filed petition this
morning asking for the appointment of
John L. Long as deputy clerk to reside
at Fairbanks. Long is an old time
westerner and mountain man – and has
been Indian agent, &c. & is competent.

<page break>

Have determined to appoint him until Heilig
can be consulted.     On yesterday I per
=suaded Charley Webb, an Eagle man and
a splendid good hunter and packer to go to the
mountain with us – He adds very much to the
strength of my party and I am very much pleased
over his determination to go. I shall undertake
to provide him an appointment as guard in one
of the jails when we get back. Am now buying
another horse – which, with packing on our backs
will unable us to travel without “double tripping”
- or going back after loads.
     I arrived in Fairbanks 36 days ago and
it is beyond belief what has been accomplished
here since then. The fact that the public offices
were established here – the Comr. Dep. Recorder
Dep. Atty.   Dep. Marshal, courthouse, jail
&c. determined most people in the belief
that this would be the important town

<page break>

in the district. All the lawyers located
here to be with the courts. I am told by one
who says he has counted them that 387
houses are now erected or in process – yet
there is not a white child here – nor in
the Tanana valley!! Whole blocks of
cabins have been built since I came – yet
there is no saw mill in the Tanana – all the lumber
is whip sawed. There is yet no church – but
6 saloons – no school house for no children.
     I leave this book today and take a new
one for my trip to the Mt. McKinly. I made
an arrangement yesterday that will lighten our
labors very much – and render us safer – I sent
my mare out to the grass lands with Scotts
horses – and hired Scotts best pack mule
for the trip – for $25.00 I also rented Billy
Robertsons pack mule for the trip for $50.00
This gives us two good pack mules – strong

<page break>

and ready & relieves us of “Aunt Sally”
my mare, who was weak and poor. With
Webb and these two mules – and the
assistance that Hendricks gives us by sitting
us up the river 60 miles we are well fixed.
If five strong men can climb the mountain
we ought to do so - we have ropes, Alpen stocks
&c. in fact everything we can think of that we
need. We procure our supplies from Hendricks &
Belts store at Chena.
     I have got to leave a few debts here –
I will owe Robertson $50.00 & Scott $25.00 for
the rent of the mules. I will owe Barnetts
store a small bill – not to exceed $50.00
and Harry and Satow – possibly
    (For memo, about trip to Mt McKinley
     see next book.

<page break>

[sketch of Mt. St. Elias]

Feb 26^th 1903.             Mt St. Elias.
                        50 miles away –
                        taken 20 mi. at Sea.

[inside back cover]
            Cleary
Check 851.80

Pd. Willig                     200.
“     Herse[?]   50.
“     Eagle.       400.
“      cash         100
”         “          101.80
all paid -           851 80

Edgar to J. McLeod     60
Pd        “       “ 20
                        40
Jacob Metz, Ft Gibbon
      knows Mt. McKinly country

http://library.alaska.gov/hist/fulltext/ASL-MS0107-Diary05-1903.htm